On my last K100LT (1990) I had Avon Road Riders (Front: 100/90 18 56V & Rear: 140/80 V17) - these proved to be good on both dry roads and the more usual wet/muddy roads around Somerset, UK (Muddy farmers are not a bikers best friend). Mileage-wise, I was getting just over 10k out of the rear tyre and, after 8.2k, the front tyre still looks good for several thousand more miles. I liked the Road Riders and they appeared to suit the mixture of country lane, main road, city riding and motorway work, that I routinely do in all weathers.

When I bought my "new" bike K100LT (1991), I noticed that I had Metzeler's fitted (Front: ME33 Laser 110/80 V18  & Rear: ME55A Metronic 130/90 V17). I rode about 400 miles on these tyres, but was not happy with the bike's handling - it seemed to corner poorly, especially at low speed, and reacted very badly to the many road surface imperfections (pot holes, road markings, drain covers, tarmac repairs, dips and bumps and...of course blobs of mud - you just can't avoid them all without being an olympic slalom champion). The tyre pressures were all OK and tyre tread was OK (albeit the front tyre was close to the legal minimum (UK)). 

This weekend, I put the wheel from my old bike (Avon Road Rider 100/90 V18) onto the new one and took it out for a spin. What a difference in handling! Gone is the sloppy, wobbly feeling and the bike corners properly again at all speeds. I wonder if this is one of the reasons the previous owner sold the bike (he didn't keep it very long in his collection)?

I have nothing against Metzeler tyres - but this was my first experience with them fitted. Noting that the front tyre size was an odd size - both wider (110) and with a lower profile (80) than the sizes in the K100 manual (recorded as 100 and 90 respectively), I wonder whether it was just completely the wrong tyre for the bike. The rear tyre is the proper size and seems OK. 

I know the easy answer - stick with what you know and revert to buying Avon Road Riders. However,  I would like to know if my assessment was right (wrong tyre) or if anyone else has experienced this sort of handling problem? If anyone can restore my confidence in Metzeler tyres - that would be great too!

Paul.

I can't restore any confidence in them.  I had a K100 with the metzelers and was not at all impressed with them one bit.
I had them on an R80RT and they were good but not on the K.  The tyres that suited me best were Bridgestone BT045s

Paul,

Have a look a the tyres that came on the 91 K100 if you still have access to them......as in the manufacture dates. Over 3 years they go off badly, seems a lot of the time Ks are off the road for a while and just parked up. Then after a few years they are sold on with what look like good tyres but the compound is compromised by age, they go harder and handle terribly. I did the same comparison and even a new tyre of the same tread pattern cured that same thing you found.

I now have the BT45s which is also what I took off it! Same as RickG above.

I'd go with radial tires.

Front: Bridgestone BT-023 110/80-18

Rear: Avon Azaro AV46 140/80-17

I run that setup on both of my K75s.  I will never put ANY brand of bias ply tires on a K bike ever again.

Thanks for the advice - I will look at BT045's when the time comes to replace my tyres again.

I looked for a cure date on the Metzeler that I removed but couldn't see anything that resembled a date in the moulding - however, close inspection does reveal cracking in the side walls which suggests that it is a fairly old tyre (>3 years) and probably has gone off badly (as you suggest). I'm not bothered by the front tyre as it was close to the tread limit anyway, but looking at the Metzler on the back (with loads of tread), I notice that it also has evidence of cracking in the side walls and I'll have to change that too. Keeping the salvage on my wrecked bike is paying off in spades - having a spare set of wheels makes life much easier - that was £100 well invested. Now to go and put my rear wheel with good Road Rider on my new bike.....

The fact that you cannot find a manufacture date may be telling in itself as it hasn't always been a requirement to display one.........but the cracking in the sidewall is a bin it message anyway. I am always happier to find tyres are the cause of a problem because they are the easiest fix. My RT handled badly until the tyre change.

There won't be a date, as such, on the sidewall of the tyre. What you look for is an oblong depression with four numbers like 4308, for example. This means the tyre was manufactured in the 43rd week of 2008. In this image it's the 42nd week of 2002.



For bias ply I use Pirelli's excellent Sport Demons, the most 'radial-like'  I've found. I've converted my K100RS to wider, three spoke rear wheel and standard width front three spoke, and on that I use Continental's Road Attack II and have used Pirelli's Angel, now known as Angel ST.

Thanks TWB, I should have explained how the dates were coded.

I take it that's an old photo or a library photo...........I would not like to be running now on a 4202.....

Thanks guys - I'm really glad I asked the question now. 

Based on your advice for decoding the tyre cure date, and a little further research on line (for pre-2000 tyres, when the coding was different) the shocking revelation is:

Front tyre: Code BPH 064 ......which appears to mean pre-2000, 6th week of the 4th year of the decade ( i.e. circa Feb 1994)

Rear tyre: Code BPN 194 ..... which appears to mean pre-2000, week 19 of the 4th year of the decade (i.e. circa May 1994)

Cross checking with my partial service record, the first owner went through lots of tyres, with his last change happening in October 1994. From old MoT and servicing invoices, the bike did a total of 28k miles up to March 1995, there is then a gap of 10 years during which time the bike only did 2k miles in total. It then did about 400 miles/year until June 2008 when it appears that it was not used for the next 5 years. The owner before me also only did about 2k miles on the bike.

Why am I boring everyone with this detail? Mostly because it kind of explains that the bike has only done 5.5k since Oct 94 and therefore these tyres are quite probably an unbelievable 20 years old - no wonder the handling was rubbish!!!!  

...and 92KK K100LT 193214 said that you wouldn't want to be running on 2002 vintage tyres. I just can't believe the bike got through (at least) 5 MoTs with these antique tyres.

So thanks again guys - you've all been a great help.  
Once again a highlight of the perils of buying a low mileage old bike.

Paul.

Paul,

The dating of tyres for the MOT [NCT in Ireland] I think only started last year, as in tyres over 5 years are not permitted. But its good to see the difference and hear it first hand. Its a real lesson to someone buying a bike that's been laid up.

But at least it removes most fears about the handling. But, having just had the same, I am sure you agree the word horrific would not be out of place with regards to their effect on handling......

Now you can ride with confidence. If you make it across the Irish Sea we will buy you a pint or two!

I think it is me that owes you the pints! The bike was last MoT'd in June 2013 (by previous owner), now you mention the new 5 year law - I think I do remember something about that being introduced, but was never concerned because who can make tyres last that long! It really should have failed the last MoT though. 

I have a friend that lives in Killorglin, which is not that far from Cork so I might just hold you to the offer at some point. I think I was just 5 or 6 years old the last time I was over that way - and I remember being too scared to kiss the Blarney stone. I've always wanted to have an excuse to go back and right that wrong.

I now have both my good Avon Road Riders on the bike for now (easiest rear wheel change ever), oh and have the rear studs set at the proper torque (they weren't exactly loose before, but I doubt if there was much more than 20Nm on them).

Having just about recovered from my crash 12 weeks ago, I shudder to think what would have happened if I'd kept the riding on the old tyres much longer. Certainly would have put me off biking once and for all - if I lived to tell the tale! 

Still, as a result of this forum I'm a little older and wiser....and now have a fighting chance of getting a little older still!

Thanks mate.

Paul

You are on very dangerous territory.

That sounds like you are suggesting a trip across the water to Killorglin in the not far off future and into the hands of some of the Irish Eccentrics. We need little excuse to visit Kerry for a weekend and the route from Rosslare to Killorglin passes at least a half dozen Ks and then you end up not far from Hover K100. You just have to go see your friend in Killorglin real soon!! You haven't really travelled until you have taken in the ring of Kerry and the Healy Pass.

The thing about the tyres, well that's what the forum is about and its always nice to see a good outcome that will benefit everyone. Not everyone would believe the effect you encountered.

duck wrote:I'd go with radial tires.

Front: Bridgestone BT-023 110/80-18

Rear: Avon Azaro AV46 140/80-17

Duck, thanks for the tip on Avon radials. I've been looking closely at radials, but have a question: If you suggest Avon Azaro in the rear, why not also the

Avon Storm 2 Ultra Sport 110/80 R18 front tire?

Under the pretext that if you can't get a matched set, at least stay with the same manufacturer? Essentially, using the same compounds, tread design, manufacturing, etc.

Heads up on the Bridgestone BT023, which has been out for a coupla years now. It's still widely available but will be phased out and in its place the 'All Singing, All Dancing' Bridgestone T30 is out. At the workshop we have fit them to a coupla K16 and R1200RT models and she looks a good'un.


T30


BT023


The T30 radial, like the BT23, is available in the typical K-Bike sizes of 110/80R18, 120/70R17, as well as 160/60R18, and 150/70R17 as the narrowest rear tyre, unfortunately there's no 140/80R17.


[th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th]

AJ.Valente wrote:

duck wrote:I'd go with radial tires.

Front: Bridgestone BT-023 110/80-18

Rear: Avon Azaro AV46 140/80-17

Duck, thanks for the tip on Avon radials. I've been looking closely at radials, but have a question: If you suggest Avon Azaro in the rear, why not also the

Avon Storm 2 Ultra Sport 110/80 R18 front tire?

Under the pretext that if you can't get a matched set, at least stay with the same manufacturer? Essentially, using the same compounds, tread design, manufacturing, etc.

The Avon Azaro is the only rear radial I know of that comes in a 140/80-17.

JMHO, but from my experience (and that of many others) it isn't an issue if tires supposedly "match" or not.  I run that combo on two K75s and the front and rear seem to "play well together" in the twisties. (And I don't ride "like a girl" either.)

And there's quite a few satisfied customers on the K1100 site running the Azaro rear with a PR2 front. (Another option for a 2V K.)

However, for whatever reason, I will run matched tires if the opportunity presents itself. I recently installed front and rear BT-023s on my K1100LT but that's got a K11RS rear wheel on it and BS makes a tire for that wheel.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Heads up on the Bridgestone BT023, which has been out for a coupla years now. It's still widely available but will be phased out and in its place the 'All Singing, All Dancing' Bridgestone T30 is out. At the workshop we have fit them to a coupla K16 and R1200RT models and she looks a good'un.


T30


BT023


The T30 radial, like the BT23, is available in the typical K-Bike sizes of 110/80R18, 120/70R17, as well as 160/60R18, and 150/70R17 as the narrowest rear tyre, unfortunately there's no 140/80R17.


[th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th][th][/th]

The 150/70-17 should work on the 3x17 3-spoke rear.  There's a guy on the K11 forum who runs a PR3 150/70-17 on his K11LT and says it works just fine.

I've just acquired a perfectly lovely 3-spoke rear rim which I intend to fit to my 1985 K100RS to allow use of a modern radial tire.  I've read in the past that this slightly wider wheel will fit my bike, but I can't remember if its a plug 'n' play deal or I have to make other mods as well.  Can someone help me out here so I may avoid unwelcome surprises when I get into this project?  TIA

Try this

https://www.k100-forum.com/t2713-wider-wheels-radial-tyres-on-a-k100

The search function turns up all manner of juicy bits.

Thanks for the tip. Sorry for not being able to use the search function.  My bad.
That links to an impressively long thread; my takeaway is that I should not have any issues, being that I don't plan to fit such a wide wheel/tire. And, I have no ambition to get into modifying the front end at all. At this point in my life, I'd rather ride than wrench - especially given my penchant for getting in over my head on projects.

what is the rim size brick  ?    there a few different options .... which might work ok  without going to all the mechanical stuff

I have a rear wheel only, 3.00 x 17." It looks like the Avon Azaros are available in sizes that will fit this new(used) rear wheel and the OEM front wheel.
I've never had radial tires on any of my bikes.  I'm curious about what all the raves are about.  I'm by no means a scratcher, so maybe it's all theoretical for me.  I must say however, that for the prices they're asking for the Azaro rear tire, it had better deliver impressive miles before it's finished and headed for the landfill.

3 is good ...no mods required

hmmm you might find the radials give about the same distance ...depending on riding style ...but a different feel to the bike

like it or not, I found a good match with the sport demon (crossply )on the front with a radial on the rear

for me and the bike ...it feels more planted on a line through a corner ...and far less wandering in cross winds ...big trucks etc ...but the radial lets you dig into a corner pretty well and throttle out pretty hard at all sorts of angles that a crossply rear just doesn't seem to do

but that's to be read as just what I experience ....its an rt not an rs so the balance is a little different

I've had a K100RS for 12 years or so, occasional commuting and holidays, and hated the handling for the first 25k. It used to feel it was falling into bends and I had little confidence to lean it heavily. Changed to Avons 4 years back and its been like a new bike - absolutely fine now and pleasure to drive fast.
(Found Metzlers fine on an old R100 I had for many years so thought it was the K100 not the tyres - hence my slow time to change). Lesson to me, every brand has its day

+1 Chris on the tire choice.  Exactly echoed my experiences.

You are on the money with the tyre sizes you mention changing the way a bike behaves, my bike a K75c had a handling querk, written about by many a bike tester, the reasoning was the 120/90 18 inch rear not being in sinc with the front of the bike, some had suggested that using a 90/90 18 would resolve the uncertainness the bike showed as is used on the R100's of that time, but I never got around to finding out as the final drive stripped and I stuck the K100 rt final unit on instead so never got there, but if you feel how a bike performs then you certainly will notice a different front tyre or it seems a different rear, these days finding a match to give the old girl her grace is all part of the game and why these threads carry so much important opinion for us.

This has been very interesting, looking at Pirelli's web site, all tyres since 2000 have four digits....mine have three, the front is 258 and the rear 017 so I'm guessing 98 and 97, this could explain the hideous wobbles and weaves when crossing over-banding and even painted lines on the road.
I think I may invest in new tyres sooner rather than later  

Mort wrote:This has been very interesting, looking at Pirelli's web site, all tyres since 2000 have four digits....mine have three, the front is 258 and the rear 017 so I'm guessing 98 and 97, this could explain the hideous wobbles and weaves when crossing over-banding and even painted lines on the road.
I think I may invest in new tyres sooner rather than later  

Mort - you got it in one. Sooner rather than later would be a wise investment - ideally before you go to Skye...

As you'll have read in the thread, the K's don't handle well on old, hardened rubber - no matter how good the tread looks. The general rule seems to be 4 years is quite old enough. I was staggered just how much difference it made putting new tyres on. When I picked up my current bike back in January, it was low milage and all looked in excellent nick...but I soon found it had the Kurse (caused by the neglect of many years not being ridden) and the tyres were not good at all. Fortunately, I found the simple Kure - reboot and and ride - the amount of miles I do, I seriously doubt if I'll experience a 4 year old tyre again.

PaulLipscomb wrote:

Mort wrote:This has been very interesting, looking at Pirelli's web site, all tyres since 2000 have four digits....mine have three, the front is 258 and the rear 017 so I'm guessing 98 and 97, this could explain the hideous wobbles and weaves when crossing over-banding and even painted lines on the road.
I think I may invest in new tyres sooner rather than later  

Mort - you got it in one. Sooner rather than later would be a wise investment - ideally before you go to Skye...

Too late, I got back today... just under 900 miles and about about 800 of them in the wet.
I'm still alive but had a big scare about 20 miles from the end of the trip, I'm going shopping tomorrow  

Oops! 

Sorry to hear your Skye run was so damp...this summer weather has certainly gone down hill these last couple of weeks (even down here in the deep south). 

You will appreciate your tyre investment - even though it hurts to hand over the scheckles at the time.

Wow. Another great thread.   

I have to say I'm thinking about tyres in a completely different way after reading the above. Thanks fellas.

Bought my 89RT in Apr this year. I was very worried after a few weeks (once I regained the mojo I had 25 years ago) when I found a very bad wobble above 80k/h around a hard bend, L or R. I'd already booked it in for a new rear which made a complete difference as expected but I'm still experiencing a very very slight occasional wobble on some bends and have developed an aversion to road markings, bitumen used to seal road cracks etc. Anything where there's a temporary change in surface texture. Also as described above, it has been a little difficult sometimes to keep it on line going thru a corner especially if there is any uneven surface or variations.

Front tyre still has about 5,000klm left on it but thanks to above I've worked out its actually just a few months off 4 years old, so that little puppy will be sent packing when I change my rear pretty soon.

atm I'm running...
Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45 110/80-18 M/C 58V (over 3½ yrs old with approx 50% left)
Rear: Metzler Lasertec 130/90-17 M/C 68V (new with approx 30% left)

From what I can gather, the Battlax is a dual compound but the Lasertec is single. Dual has gotta be better.. right?

Also how do radials affect handling? but I don't think radials are available for these wheels.

I checked out Avon sizing. I think there's one for the fron but not the rear. Any suggestions?

I have been happy with BT45 but important to keep pressure right. They seem sensitive to pressure and the front will scallop if left run low. I do a lot of miles so I don't even get 12 months from a front tyre.

Kaptain Holister wrote:
I checked out Avon sizing. I think there's one for the fron but not the rear. Any suggestions?

I went for Avon road riders in the standard sizing and it was a revelation when I finally got out on a dry road yesterday. The bike is totally stable when crossing over-banding and steers much better. Although standard sizes they have made the bike feel a little taller but perhaps that is just in my head.
Tyres are such a personal thing as we all ride differently and have different feelings from the bikes but I'm happy with my choice.

Kaptain Holist wrote:
I checked out Avon sizing. I think there's one for the fron but not the rear. Any suggestions?

YA.  This experience of  is rather typical; The rear tire wears out first and its replaced with another make/brand. Then, dissimilar tires don't perform well together, so then replace the front with another make/brand. Rinse, repeat.   

Here's what I'm running:

AVON       

Front: Storm 2 Ultra Sport (ST), SR-V, Reviews 4.5 / 5
        Tri-compound extrusion, super silica grip, inverted groove braking, water dispersal pattern

Rear:  Azaro AV46 (ST) SR-V, Reviews 4.6 / 5
        S-compound construction, variable belt density, water dispersal pattern

I'm specking for the tri-spoke rear rim that is 3". Again, if you're running the "Y" spoke, check the tire specs for rim width before buying.

I can't really speak to a better solution than to go with matched pairs, or pairs from the same manufacturer. Mis-matched pairs that several people on the forum can attest to are OK too, it really depends on your experience.

Check-out my post on "Skinny Radials" and click the link in my sig for other details.

Enjoy the ride.

Why am I boring everyone with this detail? 

Hey Paul, you certainly haven't bored me, this information and the other posts which have been referred to on here, have helped me tremendously. Some of the posts were oldish- but they were right up-to-date for me. You put me on the right track when you mentioned your Roadriders and the difference they made. I was a bit worried when I felt my bike 'snaking' a bit on certain road surfaces. After reading your comments I hunted around my area to see which tyre company did motorbike tyres. Guess what? Out of the 6 tyre companies I visited today, only two said they could do it IF I brought in the wheels AND the tyres. It was recommended to me, by one of the tyre companies to, contact a company in Creiff (only a mere 58 miles from me). I telephoned them today and they can put new Avon Roadriders on front and back for £170 all in. 

Having read some other posts about the dates on tyres, I went and checked mine, the front has T8901 rear T9301. That means my tyres are 13 years old YIKES!! No wonder they're snaking - I better get them changed ASAP. The bike only had 30,506 miles on the clock and judging by the amount of tread left on the tyres, it hasn't done much traveling in the last 13 years, but the rubber must be a bit brittle by now.

Any information about costs and recommended fitters, in the mid Scotland area, would be gratefully appreciated.

Alibear

I reckon any new tyres have to be better than what you are riding on at the moment. 13 years is much too old.

I am getting a new front on in the morning, Bridgestone BT45. Wore out in under 12 months, not because of a poor tyre but because I have had so much use out of the K in all weathers. It has given great service and is still legal but not enough for my liking. I reckon early winter with the remnants of summer oil and leaves etc is when you need the very best tyres. Got a new rear in April, it is still good but not sure it will see me through the winter either. I have been very happy with them and in all weathers even winter riding and icy conditions. Mine are on the Y spoke wheels 100/90/18 front and 130/90/17 rear. The last few mornings have been much colder and I do notice that a little time is needed for tyres to warm up on the road down from where I live, the road with the grass growing in the middle.

I got a good tip this time too, one that might be relevant. From the tyre supplier too. They are available in H and V rating. A K doesn't need the V rating and in our climate it seems better avoided if you are an all weather rider. The 'recommended' max speed for an RT or LT with luggage on is about 120kmh/80mph which is way under the tyre limitations. Even naked a K75/K100 is geared to a max under 130mph which is still under the V rating.

Thanks for that bit of advice 92KK. I noticed that it was Bridgestone tyres which are on my bike, albeit 13 years old ones and so are definitely going to be changed VERY soon. 

You mentioned BT45s, are they more expensive than Roadriders? I've been quoted £170 for two Avon Roadriders, fitted.

My back tyre seems to be squarish or flat across the tread instead of round, which I feel is making my cornering a bit wobbly. I liked the idea on one of the posters (can't remember his handle now) of putting a wider wheel on the back with nice wide, rounded tyre, but seems a bit complex a job for me.

Alibear

I don't now about the price difference but suspect there is little difference between the two. I see different opinions in favour of each and some who would not touch one but swear by the other. I was happy with the BT45 and stuck with them simply because I use the bike all year, including winter and even in very wet conditions and they have felt fine. Never had a scare from them. I sometimes do a 330 mile day round trip to Dublin and it is so much easier on the K even or especially in wet weather as it takes about an hour less. By train, parking etc and getting to the station I need 4 hours, on the K its less than 3 including parking and packing gear away.

If you use the bike all year get the opinions from others who do the same.

I have 130/90/17 on the rear and think you might get a 140/80 on but you wont get any wider on the Y spoke wheel and standard K100 main stand.

You can get radial tyres that suit the Ks, Avon Azaro rear and Bridgestone BT023 are a good combination. They will transform the feel and handling of the bike. I had bias plys on my K1100 then swapped to radials and the difference was amazing.

alibear57 wrote:I liked the idea on one of the posters (can't remember his handle now) of putting a wider wheel on the back with nice wide, rounded tyre...

One of those posts (and a link to others) is above in this thread. It is not so terribly complicated and transforms the motorbike's roadholding abilities. But the easiest way to go is either sticking with bias ply tyres or trying the Avon/B'Stone radial combo so highly recommended by Duck, Rick G and many others.

Do you remember when cars began using radial tyres over bias ply and how much that changed things for the better, re, roadholding, wet and dry handling, traction, braking and so on (including cost)? It was a similar result with motorbikes, only it's better since we have only two, credit card-sized contact patches and we need all the extra help (and added technology) we can get.

Kaptain Holister wrote:Wow. Another great thread.   

 . . . I'm still experiencing a very very slight occasional wobble on some bends and have developed an aversion to road markings . . . Any suggestions?

Expect the bike to skip and lump over cats eyes and road markings occasionally.

That's normal, even the reviews say it.

I get a little drift on the front end if I hit sand or gravel, cornering a bit faster than a lot of people would but then thats my riding style doing it too. If I were riding at conventional paces it probably wouldn't happen.

I am running a new set of Bridgestone Battlax's at the moment but will be swapping over to Front: Bridgestone BT-023 110/80-18 and Rear: Avon Azaro AV46 140/80-17 after having red this thread, once my current ones have worn out, unfortunately I have to do this season on the ones I got and will wait until next season for the new ones

I am running a new set of Bridgestone Battlax's at the moment but will be swapping over to Front: Bridgestone BT-023 110/80-18 and Rear: Avon Azaro AV46 140/80-17 after having red this thread, once my current ones have worn out, unfortunately I have to do this season on the ones I got and will wait until next season for the new ones.

I am tempted by this combination as I know the tyres will physically fit the Y spoke wheels.

Where I live we have 60 inches of rain a year, probably similar to Wales and Scotland, but twice what we have in east of Ireland and England. We don't get too much frost over a winter, but temperatures will regularly be under 7c.

How does the above combination perform in these conditions? I use the K all year round by choice. I did use Avons many years back and found them an excellent tyre in all weathers except perhaps some of the cold wet winter conditions. They gave good life but at the expense of confidence in cold weather.

RicK G wrote:You can get radial tyres that suit the Ks, Avon Azaro rear and Bridgestone BT023 are a good combination. They will transform the feel and handling of the bike. I had bias plys on my K1100 then swapped to radials and the difference was amazing.

Thanks Rick. Looking forward to giving radials a go. Any suggestions where I can get these at a reasonable price up our way? The Avon Azaro seem to be a little scarce. Can we fit a slightly different size to the standard K Y-spoke wheels

Anyone from AU buy tyres from overseas? They seem much cheaper in the US.

Does anyone fit tyres themselves? I removed and refitted a tyre many many years ago on the side of the road to change an inner tube. Wasn't too hard then... but I was young and determined.

I have been buying here for ages and delivery time is usually a week https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/d/12/Motorcycle-Tires

Kaptain Holister wrote:Does anyone fit tyres themselves? I removed and refitted a tyre many many years ago on the side of the road to change an inner tube. Wasn't too hard then... but I was young and determined.

It's easy - just not the first time (aka 'learning curve). Profuse sweating and subsequent sore muscles can be anticipated. Swearing optional. The good news is that once you've gathered a decent kit you'll be able to do this cheaply and at your convenience. 

An air compressor will prove necessary unless you have a filling station nearby. Get one anyway. 

It's a good idea to replace valve stems if its the first time you're changing hoops. Get good ones, as there's cheap ones out there that will leave you and your tires deflated. 

A tire bead holder is a very, very handy tool. Optional but you'll bless its existence once deployed. 



- Do not bother with tire levers/irons that are short. You won't get the leverage necessary. 
- Do not bother with rim protectors that don't have a 'skirt.' They'll only deform and pop out as you're making your way round the rim. 
- Warming the tires prior to installation helps greatly. Keep them inside overnight or leave in the sun if it's out and shining. 
- WD-40 or the like will facilitate getting the beads on the rims smoothly. Also it will help when seating the bead (crucial). No, it will not harm the tire nor compromise the bead seal. 

I did this and lost eyebrows and forearm hair. An act of midnight-still-in-driveway-what-the-hell-have-I-done desperation:

Starter fluid spritzed in the tire, lighter, stand the hell back. It actually does work, though. Pop!

Addendum: Three (3) tire irons. 
Like having an extra arm and that much more leverage.

Great thread lads, learnt something new again about pre-2000 coding. Somehow every time I bought a second hand bike (well, never bought a brand new one ) I had to change the tyres on them.

Tried Metzeler, Bridgestone and Michelin, ended up with Pilot Road 3 - the best I ever got so far. Very different size to a K though so comparison would not be easy - the R runs on 170/60R17 rears.

Nice sig but have you got a K one?

Be made wrote:Nice sig but have you got a K one?

Not at the moment - they are not that difficult to make if you have the basic pic and some patience / time. I'm just lacking the latter

Rod has a good one on his, worth a PM I believe

Olaf - I'm running Avon RoadRiders on snowflake rims and I find I don't slow down much in the rain. They do seem to grip quite well on wet roads and they've even failed to scare me when hitting deep (and I mean like three inches deep) puddles at almost 40mph. The bike slowed like I'd thrown out an anchor and the subsequent wave of water blinded my visor, made it's way up my HG trouser legs and down inside my boots. Water inside waterproof boots - great. However, LFB still tracked in a straight line when by rights I'd expected an aquaplane to start. I like them. I used to run BT45s but I've found the Avons have as much grip and give around 2000 miles more, front and rear.

Kyle10 wrote:

Kaptain Holister wrote:Does anyone fit tyres themselves? I removed and refitted a tyre many many years ago on the side of the road to change an inner tube. Wasn't too hard then... but I was young and determined.

It's easy - just not the first time (aka 'learning curve). Profuse sweating and subsequent sore muscles can be anticipated. Swearing optional. The good news is that once you've gathered a decent kit you'll be able to do this cheaply and at your convenience....

OK. I think I'll give this a go. Won't be doing the lighter trick tho.

I'll order the Bridgestone BT-023 and Avon Azaro AV46 from the states (thanks RicK) with a bit of gear so I can fit these myself.

Cheers