Thanks Renez, I used a sliding measuring aparatus to figure out where things were different, I'm a bit confused by the adjustment screw between No.3 and 4, as it looks like it will adjust both butterflies if I moved the screw
, Must be some technical knowhow required, but I'll have a go on the spare set first.

Daintree rick? geez louise that's along way. I just was after some sun.

How many different things can be wrong at once.
After cleaning and lubing the T/B bits, and replacing them, resealing the upper and lower rubbers, new screw clamps I put it all back together, and no change, still idling high. Bummer.
Have a real good look Robert. One lower manifold rubber clamp was inhibiting No.4 injector from sealing correctly, pull off and re adjust. Still the idle screw sitting high and choke light stays on. Re adjust and move a top rubber clamp, light off. Get out book, re set the "choke" cable clearance on idle screw, throttle on, throttle bar not closing down. What the flaming hell. Check me old mate the TPS. Take it off, have a good look at the way if fits onto the butterfly opening bar, and viola, someone earlier than me has forced the TPS on without taking regard of the flat bit that positions it correctly, and it has been holding the idle screw open all this time.
 There have been many suggestions for me to look at this earlier but I just readjusted the "click" each time without taking the whole mechanism off.

So together with fixing up all the air leaks and finding and fixing this problem, I've had a fair test run today in traffic and roadworks, idling at 950/975ish all day.

I'm off for a long run as soon as I can, but feel confident that it has settled down.

Thanks to everyone who had suggestions, it's a great forum, and I'm sure I'll be need more help again but this one looks like being over.
Regards to all
RT

     huzzah !!!!!   at last you have found it   

great news bob ....and finally you have the reward of saying.... I did this, myself ...

   from up here

Fantastic news RT!  That was interesting that the TPS orientation was off yet the function appeared to be correct.

Yes robmnack, I was able to get the little click. What actually happen was I put a spare TPS on which hadn't been used for 15 years, and it was rigid, wouldn't turn at all and stuck the throttle rail open every time I twisted the throttle. So I took it off and it made me wonder about if there was a similar but smaller problem with  the original. Aftertook it off  the throttle rail dropped straight down to close properly, I was able to screw the idle screw way out and the rail dropped to the stop each time. So after having a look at the TPS where the rail fits it, it was all mangled in there and it appears to have been forced on in the past at an incorrect angle, keeping the rail open as if the "choke" was always engaged. I have had massive problems trying to adjust the choke lift in the past, was always way too high.

For a change, I'm a happy chappy, now for the new Gear Position Switch, clutch plate and looks like some sort of front seal leak. It never ends, but thanks again to everyone on this.
RT

Well look at you being all mechanical and hands on.

Guess you'll be wanting to get that gearbox off next and do the clutch?

Good work on finding the problem. 
Who wudda thought some previous owner would have no clue on the operating intricacies of the TPS.

Be cool

Good news RT!
The old "mangled by previous owner" trick.

I got to blame somebody, couldn't possibly have been me. I wasn't there, didn't do it.etc.
Thanks rossko, now to get those clutch plates and stuff ordered. New thread, how to stuff up a clutch plate
changeover.

it cant happen bob ...you have seen so many by now ...

good luck !

Thanks Charlie, hope to catch up soon mate.