I did a search and I didn't see what I need to know.  Manual says remove rear mud guard and one caliper.  I can't even figure ou the mud guard.

Is there a good "how to" for this?  I am trying to RNR the brakes and the fork seals and I'm stumped.

This was much easier on my R1100S.

Look at the back of the fork brace, there's a small black plastic panel that flips out. Behind that you'll find a hex-head screw that runs through the brace into the front section of the mudguard.

Watch out though, the other end is a captive square nut in a plastic housing. If the screw is solid it may rotate in the recess.

If it's like this:



you'll struggle. 

If on the other hand you put a piece of one inch thick timber under the main stand, you'll find that the wheel will come out easily without removing anything but the calipers.

Can I ask is the RS?.

I took front wheel off the K100LT to repair a puncture, it has the fork brace.

Only took out axle and dropped the wheel out. I didn't take off any other parts or touch the brakes. Propped under the engine with a wood crate and that was it, wheel dropped and came forward. Refitting was a cinch.

Just make sure before you do it that you put a wedge between the front brake lever and the bars and tape it in so there is no risk of accidentally using the front brake while the wheel is out. Then you will have trouble.

With wheel out everything is more accessible.

I'm assuming that it's a 16v RS with the 3.5 inch front wheel. The clearance is minimal and the calipers must be swung out of the way before the wheel will pass between the forks.

HellFishTat wrote:I did a search and I didn't see what I need to know.  Manual says remove rear mud guard and one caliper.  I can't even figure ou the mud guard.

Is there a good "how to" for this?  I am trying to RNR the brakes and the fork seals and I'm stumped.

This was much easier on my R1100S.

is it the front wheel or rear wheel you are trying to remove , 
forks are at the front of course , but you mentioned removal of the rear mudguard and one caliper , being the rear wheel?
you may be reading the wrong part of the manual.
the rear wheel requires mudguard removal , with no removal of the brake,
the front requires removal of both calipers , with no removal of the front guard provided you can get sufficient elevation from the guard.

have another read of the manual, just to clarify , good luck with it.

It has a 2 piece front guard so it's the rear of the front guard.
Its not like those old fashioned K100 LTs:D

to remove the rear wheel ...
check inside the ducktail
there are 2 10mm nuts on bolts just in front of the taillight assembly on the bottom of the pan
these bolts hold a bracket that holds the number plate plastic ...under the tail light

then look just under the tail light from the rear ...there are 2 Philips head screws holding the plastic number plate on ....if the internal nuts are loose  and the screws removed then it should just pull back towards you

makes getting the rear wheel out too easy

hope this helps

I ended up scrubbing the whole idea of doing it this weekend.  I buttoned it all back together and went riding instead.

I will look more this upcoming week, and try to finish it all next weekend.  Apparently more research is required.

Bike in question is a '91 K100rs.

I took the front wheel off my '92 k100rs recently for a new tire and oh man was it a pain.  The calipers don't clear the discs/wheel when unbolted from the forks, so I ended up taking the discs off the wheel and then very carefully sliding the wheel out while holding the discs.  The top of the caliper would hit the inside of the wheel while the disc was still inside the brake pads, so I couldn't get the wheel off.  I tried every possible solution as it seemed odd to have to remove the discs just to get the wheel off, but that was the only way I could find.

Here's my method:

First tape the calipers to protect the wheel rim:



Next, jack the bike up under the sump. Raise the front far enough to place a block under the front wheel. It doesn't have to be very thick but it needs to be long enough for the a later stage:



Slacken the axle pinch bolts, remove the end cap and withdraw the axle. Undo the caliper retaining screws and rock the calipers from side to side to force the pistons and pads back.

Then, with the calipers loose, roll the wheel to the rear a little (on the block) to make a bit more room for the calipers to pass the rim:



Note: Keeping the caliper in the rough alignment that it has when attached will allow it to pass between the disc and the wheel rim much more easily than if it is angled.

Once the calipers will clear the rim you can roll the wheel forward and out. The block means that the disc retaining screw heads are roughly in line with the rebated sections on the inside of the fork slider obviating the need to lift it up to clear.



This process is only required for the K1, 16v RS and K1100RS or any bike that's had the 3.5" wide three spoke front wheel fitted retrospectively.

Thanks for that reply post, MikeP. It's about as clear and concise a method for 17" front wheel removal as anyone could possibly need.

I manage to get the callipers off my 16 valve without taking disks off and without removing the axle. I use a similar method to Mike except that I tape the rim.
The trick is to wiggle the callipers enough to get the pad right back into them, then they will pass the rim.
With a jack under the sump the two piece mudguard can stay where it is.

bikerboy wrote:I manage to get the callipers off my 16 valve without taking disks off and without removing the axle. I use a similar method to Mike except that I tape the rim.
The trick is to wiggle the callipers enough to get the pad right back into them, then they will pass the rim.
With a jack under the sump the two piece mudguard can stay where it is.

That's what I do. Easy as falling off a Harley on a roundabout.

Gentlemen!

Thank you all very much for this input.  I will regroup and try again this weekend.

Agree with all of above; it's a bit of a pig but with technique and practice it becomes less of a strugggle.

I've found making sure the pads are pushed well back in the calipers makes a big difference.

Mike. Neat trick pushing the wheel back, I'll try that next time.

Cheers
Dave