Hello all,

I've been getting a rattle in the front of the engine, and have purchased all the parts (chain, rails, guides, tensioner) to open it up and fix it.  I know to watch out for turning anything while the chain is removed as it will screw up the timing and ignition, but not really specifically what, or how to keep things from turning.  Should I just make some sharpie marks on the gears and make sure everything's lined up before I put it back together?

Also, as far as the parts go, I ordered a new chain, rails, guides, and tensioner.  When I ordered the tensioner, I assumed I was getting this piece: 
http://www.motobins.co.uk/library/10311.jpg

but I received the metal blade instead: 
http://www.motobins.co.uk/library/10310.jpg instead

How likely is it that the tensioner itself is worn to the point it wouldn't provide enough tension for the chain?  The engine (supposedly)has ~35k miles on it.  Is it something that I should order and replace while I've got the bike apart?  If not, how do I go about resetting it back down?

Any other tips / tricks I should know about this job?

Thanks in advance!

rabid

for most of us the tensioner is on a snail cam that holds it there when pressure is gone  .....I believe the mechanics are that oil pressure actually pushes the piston up .
under the piston is a spring which provides force downwards to a disc at the bottom of the snail cam rod ....this disk( two parts one built into the bottom of the assembly and one on the rod )  has a sharks tooth patern to stop it unwinding (when pressure drops ) holding the piston and blade with some tension on the chain .

I have seen a couple of these ...and after all the years ...that sharks tooth disks do round off somewhat and or get clogged with gunge and sticky residue  ...best to do an assessment when you get it out I guess ...but the piston has a obvious working height and chain stretch is the determining factor .
to remove the piston just pull upwards after lubricating it with some carbi cleaner to remove the oily gunge around and inside the assembly
the spring will try and fly away as usuall . be careful ... but its by no means small so should be easy to find again .
to reassemble just assemble it and then wind the blade retainer height down ...put a cable tie round it to hold it in place till its fitted back in the housing .
then cut the tie as you assemble the blade chain etc .



there are marks on the cam wheels to line up on top dead centre ....both should be either up or down vertically (up is the by the book ) ...the main crankshaft drive ....I cant remember ...but I made sure to get it all lined up before removal and not to turn the crank till all was assembled . (leave it in first gear )



hope that helps

There is a tool that holds the cams in position on the 16vs while you change everything, it positions on the rear of the cams into the slots and bolts onto where the cam cover attaches. Check around the shops you may be able to buy or hire, they are worth their weight in gold.

And the shafts/gearwheels have marks. Follow the manual, it's not too difficult. Just don't start cranking the engine with everything disconnected as you'll get lost then.

Got it.  Thanks a ton guys.  So basically, don't let anything move / turn while I'm in there.  I went ahead and ordered then tensioner itself anyways since I'm going to be in there and it wasn't terribly expensive.  I'll get in to this tuesday or wednesday night when that gets here.

On another note, it looks like I'm due for another water/oil pump seals replacement -_-  At least the pump is an easy process.