Hi!,

I'm having troubles with the indicators and headlight on my '89 100RS 16v.

The problem:
...Came gradually over a span of a few 100 miles. Came and went again. ..and came again, didn't go anymore.. 
When I push any of the switches concerning the indicators, (left, right, cancel, warning doesn't matter) usually the left indicator stays on continously until I release the switch, then all four blink once, and the left ones blink twice. This is the last state, but various other combinations of signals have happend.
Also the headlight stops/stopped working all together when this problem occures/started. No low beam, high beam, or parking light.
All the rest works fine.


The solving:
* A friend of mine had a similar problem on his 75, and he solved the problem by cleaning out the starter motor. I tried this too, even putting in new brushes, but nothing changed.
* I checked the fuses: all ok.
* I dismanteld/cleaned/reassembled the switchgear on the handlebar. problem changed slightly, but didn't really get any better.
* I changed the headlight bulb. The old bulb was blown, new one hasn't gotten any 12V since, so no light nor blowing so far. 
* I got the relays out, and I'm planning to exchange them with the one from my second RS16v (good having that one around!)


I hope the new relays will solve the problem, but somehow I don't think so since I cant figure out on the wiring diagrams how this relay might affect the headlight.

I will keep you posted on progress.

Oh, btw, does anyone have a specific 100-16v wiring diagram in colour lying around? I have the b/w one in a workshopmanual, but adding colour might brighten my mood as well as my insights.. I have also been using the interactive 8v one, but then I should check if it is indeed the same...

Comments, ideas, or mental support is always appreciated.

M

Ah yes: I forgot that one: I cleaned all the earths, and even made a new external one straight from the switch to the battery..

Switch replacing. Yes, I will try that. I ran out of other options anyway..

Had a similar experience.  Headlight died. High beam worked then would not light. Flashers went wonky too. Replaced switches on bars and problem resolved itself... After I replaced the burned out H4

did you undo the connectors under the tank to each of the handle bar controls ?

we have seen many many times that these connections corrode ....a bit of cleaning often helps ...and "deoxit" is your friend in such matters

Your starter motor needs new brushes. I know it sounds crazy but it happens because the starter provides the earth path for the loadshed relay which releases when the starter button is pushed to give max power to start.
The brushes can be ok to make the starter work because you have a full 12v across them but because the starter is only about 1/2 ohm the relay doesnt let it have enough voltage to make them conduct. The head light etc work through the load shed relay and the indicator unit has 2 yoltage supplies to it one of which comes through the loadshed relay and that makes it play up when only one supply is there.
Also check fuse #7 because it is where the other power to the indicator relay comes from.
I know you said you checked all the fuses but replace them with new ones as we have seen many cases here of supposedly good fuses being open circuit when power is applied.
From what I can see they crack inside the plastic housing and corrode but still conduct when tested with a meter but when they try to carry a big operating current they roll over and play dead.

@ Charlie & Keith:
Yeah, that might be the cause indeed.
Luckily I have 2 identical ones, so this weekend I will try switching the switches ( ) and de-ox'ing em in the process. While I'm at it and if necessary I will try switching the relays too. If that doensn't do the trick, I'll get back to cleaning earthing points I guess.

@Rick,
I had a friend telling me the same thing, so those brushed are changed already. 
Maybe I'll just change all fuses at once. They don't cost much, and since most are the old type with the open wire, I guess they are in there long enough to have earned a peaceful old day in my spares-box.

After a good day's work, the problem is solved!

In the end it turned out to be a bad (but still good-looking) fuse!
The main reason this took me quiet a while to figure out, was because my wiring diagram turned out to be incorrect, and I had at first renewed a fuse that turned out to have nothing to do with the indicators. So I systematicly checked or replaced every item, just to conclude that it had to be the fuse. Upon rechecking the fusebox connections, I saw my mistake, and it was solved within a second or two..

On the bright side: I did learn a whole lot about K-electronics in the process..

Yep we just keep seeing that, those blade fuses that look good but are open circuit.
I reckon that you would be the 3rd or 4th recently and others I have seen elsewhere like my car and a friends Honda. All around the 20 year mark or a bit more.