Hi all
I'm trying to fit a pair of led running lights to my 1985 K100RS. I want to mount them each side on the very front of the fairing just below the headlight. I thought it would be a simple matter of lowering the panel that goes around the fork legs to gain access, however the panel seems the held up by the brake hose junction.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Hi Bolts, you could remove the knee panels and glove boxes to get in there, might be easier. I gather you have the older panel which wraps around the fork, not the later version with the air scoops.......?

cheers

andyb wrote:Hi Bolts, you could remove the knee panels and glove boxes to get in there, might be easier. I gather you have the older panel which wraps around the fork, not the later version with the air scoops.......?

cheers

I have removed knee pads (no glove boxes on RS), and plastic dashboard. No air scoops on mine. I,m thinking I might have to remove the whole front fairing, which looks like fun, NOT.

bummer, should be four main bolts around the front of the fairing........

Here's a pic of one that is off. The radiator grill has 3 screws each side to the lower covers and several going up to the main fairing and the boots. I think the bit you are trying to open is still attached to the main fairing in this pic. Looking inside, it will come out ok but you'd have to pull the radiator and boots as well. I'm not sure if you'll get it past the brake lines though.

Thanks RobinW
Yes the part I am trying to get off is still attached in your pic. Still it looks like I might be able to manipulate forward then down. Failing that whats involved in removing fairing as shown?

Both the radiator cover panel and the "gusset" (fnarr, fnarr) will come out without removing the upper fairing.

The radiator panel needs to be turned (twisted) sideways slightly to clear the fairing side panels before it will pass them.

Yep, to get it all off, pull the knee pads, then the lower side panels, then the radiator. Removing the top dash needs for the liners each side of the screen to be loosened. There are a couple of fasteners on each side of the main fairing to come off then the metal brackets down each side and then the horn tubes come out to get at the fasteners behind them and you may have to loosen and twist the horns depending on what's fitted. Knock the indicators off and unplug the cables.

There are 4 fasteners holding the main fairing to the mounting bracket. Four hands are better than two here as you have to unplug the headlight as the fairing comes forward. Watch the indicator cables so they don't get snagged, now it's all off. Definitely a PITA

Mine has no gauges.

I have had my fork surrounding panels out several times without taking anything else out. As stated in one post above it takes a bit of twisting & wiggling while also turning the steering from side to side to maneuver the panals out but it can be done. You'll probably want to remove the two knee panels to gain access for wiring (3 screws each. These lights were very economical, came with all the wiring +relay and turned out to be very well made.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-7-8-OVAL-UNIVERSAL-12V-H3-55W-FOG-LIGHTS-DRIVING-LAMPS-HARNESS-SET-PAIR-KIT-2-/111081560655?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19dcfa1a4f&vxp=mtr

ibjman wrote:I have had my fork surrounding panels out several times without taking anything else out. As stated in one post above it takes a bit of twisting & wiggling while also turning the steering from side to side to maneuver the panals out but it can be done. You'll probably want to remove the two knee panels to gain access for wiring (3 screws each. These lights were very economical, came with all the wiring +relay and turned out to be very well made.

I will go it go tomorrow. I have a few jobs lined up by SWMBO.