It seems that everything I look at on this bike, a gorilla has beaten me to it. Looked at the valve clearances tonight and the first of the bottom set of 4 bolts came out with the thread attached I mean, how hard is it to get a tension wrench off ebay.

Does anyone have any tips on fixing this one?

I'm pretty sure those bolts go into the cam covers not the head but I was a bit pissed off tonight and didn't take a lot of notice.


Also, half the valves are too tight, tomorrow I'll try and see how tight. I don't have any tools to change shims and I'm tossing up whether I should get it done for me or not. I figure it's a once in 50K thing. But I really wanted to do all of this myself. If I do it myself, will the fuel system need to be resynchronised as well?

Pretty sure the jetronic senses the changes in vacuum and adjusts fuel injection accordingly, but the professors can correct me on that one...

I know just how you feel,I could not count the bikes I have fixed when someone brings a bike to me and says "I took it to .......... and now its Rat Siii.
Most of the cover bolts go into the top bearing cap of the camshaft cradle.
Take the cover off if you havent done it already and remove the parts over the cams that the bolts screw into.
BE CAREFUL Dont remove them all at once and when you do remove one make sure the cam lobe each side isnt holding a valve open at all. Remove that cap and take it to an engineering shop and get a Helicoil (it's a steel insert to replace the thread) It isn't cheap but it's the best option. If you feel you can do that then most bolt retailers have kits to do the Helicoils.
DONT mix the caps up as they are individually fitted to each place on the head and if you get them wrong it WILL BE VERY EXPENSIVE. The caps are marked with letters so you can record where they go.
I would not recommend the BM Shop for the valve clearances as I have not long ago fixed a K75 they had their filthy little fingers on.

Erman wrote:Pretty sure the jetronic senses the changes in vacuum and adjusts fuel injection accordingly, but the professors can correct me on that one...

The L jetronic isn't that smart.
You may need to adjust the throttle bodies but just take as it comes.

It's just one bolt rick, bottom left, I think I know what your talking about. They look like a coil and go into the stripped thread.

If not the bmshop then it's wackers. Or southside suzuki, Andrew, head mechanic there was my neighbour for ages.

I buy Heli Coil inserts at the local auto Parts store in a kit that comes with the tap, the appropriate size drill bit & the inserting tool.
This is a skill that every K owner should know and have several sizes on hand in his tool box. The only real problem I see is that the standard Heli tap is a tapered starting tap that would not be sufficient for blind bottom holes. A second tap may have to be obtained with a flat "bottoming cut" ground off the point on the bottom end. Heli Coil company makes 3 tap sets that include starting, intermediate and bottoming taps in a set.
If the hole is left threaded with the "starting taper" remaining on the bottom end, the coil will be compressed when it is installed and the bolt won't go all the way in. Once this occurs, the faulty new coil can be a bit of a challenge to get back out for additional thread tapping.
Suggest that "newbies" practice a few holes in some junk parts before starting on a valuable piece.
Regards, ibj....

I got a helicoil kit today for under $50.
Came with a drill, flat bottom tap, insertion tool, tang break off tool and a dozen odd coils.
Put it in without issue and it looks like a bought one.
Now where was I

Ae I know what you mean more damage is done to threads thru ignorance - lack of experience, over tightening and super loctite.
I've found that as allot and steel are different metals electrolisis corrosion can be part of the problem of threads coiling out welded to the steel bolt, hence studs were often used but more expensive in production and disassembly can be restricted. I have found a smear of GP greas on assemble with a new spring washer over a flat washer each time the best when coupled with sensitive torquing by feel, nipped firm depending on diameter and materials, aluminium needs care to preserve the life of the fastening system. Inserts save the day but need very careful, sometimes jigging to place precisely where needed. I never use red loctite on threads any more, only blue if I have to.
My beeza recently threw the primary dublex drive chain ripped out the altenator luggs, need to strip and set cases up on a drill mill to get the welded lugs redrilled as Oem dimensions, a real hassel and all mh own fault for leaving the chain and primary drive too long between inspections, though I did hear it crying for attention. Most issues are preventable if things are done in accordance with good engineering practice including thread maintenance. good luck mate.
Rick
Mawhera

I was going to mention electrolysis as the biggest culprit for seized bolts, screws and studs.

On any bike that I haven't put a spanner on, I never attempt to undo anything unless I've given it at least a little heat first.

Fingers crossed, the four K-Series that I've done up in the past 12 months have given me any serious grief, just front mudguard mountings in one case.