I've just removed the fairing from my RT and took it out for a test run today.What a revelation losing all that high up weight. Feels like a different bike.
Not to everybody's taste but it was great fun.
Need to change the bars to something lower than the RT.

My question is has anyone had any success with moving the clocks lower down, as they look a bit out of place where they are?
If so, how was it done?
If I could lower them by about 3" I could move the headlight down a bit too.
Using standard K100 parts would be nice but they are rare 2nd hand and would cost the price of the bike to buy new.

Any ideas?

looking great john

(love the reverse relief on the crankcase....grin)

perhaps invert the brackets so they go down , instead of raising the instruments ??? or something like that ..

I will be moving mine down as I went for clip on bars. Need to fabricate a new bracket, methinks.

Couple of mirrors would not go astray either
Amazing what some folks pick up.
Just tell me to nick orf. It is a proof of concept photo

Dammit Comberjohn! I was all ready to put my RT back together, keeping it stock.
Then you post your picture. Aaaarrrrggggghhh!

Your bike just looks neat. Neat and tidy. Love the pinstripes.

What to do? Keep it stock or strip it down?!?

So, the old "gap between the instruments and the headlight" question. Maybe a small one like on Bert's bike? I'm toying with the idea myself.

blakey wrote:Dammit Comberjohn! I was all ready to put my RT back together, keeping it stock.
Then you post your picture. Aaaarrrrggggghhh!

Your bike just looks neat. Neat and tidy. Love the pinstripes.

What to do? Keep it stock or strip it down?!?

So, the old "gap between the instruments and the headlight" question. Maybe a small one like on Bert's bike? I'm toying with the idea myself.

Looks nice doesn't it Blakey.
You know you want to.

CJ - Have you removed the bar risers? Didn't you have to raise the clocks when you fitted them? I had to make a little bracket to raise mine when I fitted the Electric screen (that's a clearance issue on the inner fairing) but I'm sure the process could be reversed to lower them. I have some nice Aluminium plate hear if you need a piece!

88

...and the tank protectors! Magnificent!

Thanks rossco. I know that you know that I know I want to.

[img][/img]

Firstly, yes, nick off Rossco. Hadn't got around to getting a couple of mirrors yet but with the sun out and a heady 10C I couldn't resist it. Still not sure which type of mirror yet as a bar change is a possibility. Slightly more forward position with standard type K100 bars. Not original at £130 though!

Thought of reversing the headlight brackets, Charlie. But after careful consideration it wouldn't make any difference. The light would still be at the same height. The clocks have to come down! Noticed on a recent photo of one of those 'Pilchard' fairings, the clocks are re positioned lower down in the fairing bracket.

Blakey, I know what you mean about should I keep the fairing on or not. I struggled with it too. It felt like I was doing something very bad.
But its like I have a different bike. I know its probably partly imagination but it feels like it really lifts, brakes better and handles much better. Its much easier to use at slow speeds in traffic too. No wobbly top heavy feel.
On the twisties it just encourages you to really get into the corners and power out again.
In a word its FUN!
Starting to worry about my licence as it does encourage hooligan behaviour. Not very BMW like.

Will. I removed the risers but the clocks are still original. It was only the dashpad that had to be raised on mine. The clocks bracket can't be reversed but could be lowered by about an inch by re-drilling the mounting holes. Not sure if its worth it for an inch.
I would like to drop the headlight brackets down a bit if I can lower the clocks. The only way I can see is to cut and drill two lengths of steel or aluminium flat bar that can be fixed to the two threaded holes on both the top and bottom yokes.
The top yoke ones are used to hold the clocks bracket but the bottom ones are redundant. I used them to mount the horns.
I think I could then fix the clocks at any point on these two bars by simply drilling a couple of holes at the correct height. Don't think it would be too noticeable behind the headlight.

The pinstripes came in a roll from eBay for a couple of quid. Just took a little patience and a few bad words to fit. They do stick well once they are on, though.

Comberjohn,I know exactly what you mean about weight and movement. I have a 83 naked as well as my 87 rt and the naked is great around town, can be moved into corners, etc. The rt has that little more weight, but mind you it is great o the open road. You may find that your new mirrors will vibrate at speed as the wind really wants to move them, at least that is what I found with my original ones.

Hi Comberjohn,
If you could find a RS speedo mount, that would lower the clocks somewhat. I did a quick check this morning and the RT bracket positions the clocks at 60° with respect to the top yoke, whereas the RS bracket sits the clocks at 20°.
Cheers,
Paul.
(PS I've just found out how to get the ° symbol, Num Lock, Alt 0176.....on the numeric keypad)
Just found this:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-K100-clocks-speedo-support-bracket-/150993756806?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2327ede286

Thanks for that Paul. I didn't realise there was a difference between the RT and RS brackets.
Must have a look at the bike tomorrow.

+1 on the RS cluster mount conversion, that is my plan when the RT goes naked at reassembly. The used RS mounting parts were cheap and it's a simple clean solution.

My project is a very low mileage 85K100RT going Naked/Cafe (without the clip-ons).

I spent time trying to figure out how to lower the cluster too.Finaly bought 1inch alum. square stock and mounted each cut lenth to the upper and lower bolt holes you were talking about.Now I can position the cluster as high or as low as I wish with no flexing,or bouncing that would be caused by using flat stock.

My new problem is mounting the headlight that I bought.Most fork brackets are cheaply made, or they want major $ for them.Mid-priced units with good quality will not fit the Ks forks due to their large diameter.

How did you mount yours...looks like a clean install.

I bought the 40 USD Emgo headlight ears seen here, they seem good quality and fit:

http://specialks.net/index.php?supermode=gallery_view&previewm=1&a=87K75C&image=090825033108_dscn0824s.jpg&screenres=1024-768

s-k wrote:I bought the 40 USD Emgo headlight ears seen here, they seem good quality and fit:

[url=http://specialks.net/index.php?supermode=gallery_view&previewm=1&a=87K75C&image=090825033108_dscn0824s.jpg&screenres=1024-768

http://specialks.net/index.php?supermode=gallery_view&previewm=1&a=87K75C&image=090825033108_dscn0824s.jpg&screenres=1024-768[/quote[/url]] Saw those and they look period for a Cafe job but I dont want to remove forks to install them.

ComberJohn,what did you use for your headlight brackets?

[img][/img]

Hi frogy.
Cropped the photo to let you see the brackets more clearly.
They are sturdy and wrap around a plastic sleeve rather than directly onto the forks.
I think that those others are a nice job too. However, both those and mine require you to drop the fork legs to fit them. Have seen another type on eBay that don't need to do that, but don't look to well made and clamp directly onto the fork legs and would mark the chrome.
Time to get the spanners out? Would only take half an hour.
Ringfad dropped an RT clocks bracket in to me this afternoon and going to look at whether that can be modified to lower the angle.
Have just bought a smoked flyscreen on eBay that should cover a multitude of sins and want to see how that fits before I go to far down that road. Because the clocks are so large I'm anxious that the flyscreen won't fit if they are too flat.
Driving myself mad over what bars to change to.
Definitely need lower, but how low?
Thinking of a 3" rise. Straight bars or clip ons might have the image but still want to be able to cover a few hundred miles in a day and straighten up at the end!
Then I can decide on mirrors. standard type or bar ends?
All part of the fun, isn't it?

Yep,part of the fun it sure is.

Bought bar-end mirrors for my ride at Emgo after seeing them on an old R80 at a garage.

As for the brackets I am thinking of useing 4 hydrolic stainess clamps,then cut down some alum.flat stock and shape them on a grinder.

Still plenty of things to do.

Larger rear tire

Weld shortened rear section back on frame

Install Tsignals from F800GS

...and on and on...

Just had another thought about the headlight mounting.
I have seen photos of modded K's that use a bracket bolted to the two holes on the bottom yoke and a 'Bates' style headlight with a mounting bracket on the bottom of the headlight shell.
Makes for a very clean fit with nothing on the forks. Difficult to get anything larger than 6" and legal (in the UK), though.
Save you dropping the forks too.

Yep,saw that settup too.But aready bought chrome headlight from 87 Suzuki that is DOT approved.

A lot of elbow grease but its Real shiny now.Any HD rider would be proud:D

Ref the larger rear tyre.
You know that the K1100RS rear wheel with a much bigger radial tyre is a straight bolt in?

Yep,but many more $ than I want to spend.

This project is paying for itself. I sell everything that I do not need that I stripped off the RT.

So far am in the negative for $68.00,and I still have the side cases and many smaller bits and pieces.

Im happy just getting radials on this bike.I rode it for a few miles before the prior owners tag expired.Those bias tires tracked every groove on the road. And 140/80-17s are not that bad...compaired to the orig. 130/90-17s that were on it.

Good to hear from someone as careful(tight) as myself.
Thought about selling the fairing parts but not quite ready to take the plunge yet. Can't really see me going back to the whole RT thing though.
Having too much fun making changes and riding my 'new' bike.

Comberjohn wrote:Good to hear from someone as careful(tight) as myself.
Thought about selling the fairing parts but not quite ready to take the plunge yet. Can't really see me going back to the whole RT thing though.
Having too much fun making changes and riding my 'new' bike.

...and not nealy as Hot either.Just the short rides I took I noticed a lot of heat trapped under the gas tank and on the insides of my legs.

I took the "plunge" as you call it because I aready have an R1150RT,so when I hit the Rally trail I use it.But when I am taking shorter rides and its hot (here in Misery its hot and humid) I will ride the Naked.

I cant wait to see what its like with all the wght off.

Speaking of wght,I plan on replacing the 26lbs:monkey: tracter batt.in this thing for a Lithium batt. That should shave another 22lbs off:bounce:

I understand what you mean Comberjohn about selling-off the RT fairing bits and pieces! When I took all my fairing stuff of, I found a lot of weird nut/bolt combos and screws and numerous broken mountings. So I am thinking of not putting the fairing back on again.
I have already bought a 7" headlight and brackets. I have the mirrors too (black, not chrome); I'll just run a tap through the existing holes in the handlebar lever.

Like you frogy, the PO must have owned a tractor and used the battery from that! Bloody huge thing it is. I'll be getting a smaller one (no driving lights, no ABS, no radio). Probably a 20Ah.

Good work guys.

Good idea on the mirrors, Blakey. Hadn't thought of tapping the holes.
Would allow a much wider choice of mirror.
Any idea if the existing holes need enlarged before tapping them?

If I remember correctly, it was a 10mm tap. Give me a few minutes and I'll go the the shed and find out.
The tap really didn't take out too much metal at all...and my fleabay mirrors just screwed in fine.

Yep 10mm tap. Umm, chrome, not black.

Here are the mirrors I bought. Having another look at them, I hope they'll last...

You just run the tap through I have just done a set on a friends K75s. 10mm x 1.25 pitch is the usual size.

Rick G wrote:10mm x 1.25 pitch is the usual size.

That's japanese standard........

That's the mirrors sorted. Thanks guys.

'Won' this on Ebay yesterday for £17.

Its for a Suzuki SL650/1000. Notice the way it widens out about the middle. Hoping it will hide the K clocks.

On the subject of the clocks and saving weight, have you felt the weight of the cast iron cover around the clocks themselves? Would stop a 9mm round! Why?
Starting to think one of those dinky, digital displays might be a good project in the near future.
Still on weight saving, my battery is near the end of its life and may think of a smaller, lighter one, too.

Was out today and enjoying steering with my bum cheeks instead of the tiller.

" That's japanese standard........ "

Thanks Inge...now our secret's out!

Ok, I'll add that to my list...white zip ties, black starter buttons and 10mm x 1.25 pitch taps.

Oh yeah...a photo please Comberjohn if/when you fit the screen.

Inge K. wrote:

Rick G wrote:10mm x 1.25 pitch is the usual size.

That's japanese standard........

They will probably be Chineese mirrors so 1.2455mm pitch will be the thing

Comberjohn wrote:I've just removed the fairing from my RT and took it out for a test run today.What a revelation losing all that high up weight. Feels like a different bike.
Not to everybody's taste but it was great fun.
Need to change the bars to something lower than the RT.

My question is has anyone had any success with moving the clocks lower down, as they look a bit out of place where they are?
If so, how was it done?
If I could lower them by about 3" I could move the headlight down a bit too.
Using standard K100 parts would be nice but they are rare 2nd hand and would cost the price of the bike to buy new.

Any ideas?

G'day Comberjohn, I love the new look, the bike looks timeless not 25 years old at all! Check out my post for tidying up the rear end for more minor mods.

Mate I have a pair of RS bars and dash pad spare. I was going to list them on Ebay but pm me if you are interested in them. I could get a shipping quote.

Hi bigsax. Already been looking at your thread and plan to do the same to the back end of my K. As you said, for all the time I use the panniers I can take 15 minutes to put the rails back on if I need to.
I appreciate the offer of the bars but I could buy a pair on eBay for a tenner. Think the postage to here from Australia could be substantial.
Still not sure about going so low and narrow. That relaxed muscle can get in the way!
Not trying to go the full cafe style. Not cutting the back end off or anything irreversible. Just want a clean street bike look that's comfortable, tourable and still fun to ride.

Just a thought. Give me a day or two to sort things out, but teh k100/2 headlight mount and stuff seems to make the insturments a fair bit lower and looks f and some letters awesome.
Requires the whole lot to do, but just got the plastic parts from motorworks for 19 pounds. That was the surround and the 'black plastic bit' behind it.
Screws etc cost more than the parts but I think the result is a lower cluster and a nice big round light up front.
Oh, the light? yeah. you can buy them. about $500 AU. But it looks good.

Just had a play. seems to be about the same position as it currently is with my RT clock mount and the standard dash.
But it looks a whole lot better. Whne it is cleaned up I will post photos. Or look at Basic2's pics. Sweet.

For $500 it would need to more than good!
My bike didn't cost much less than that. Was breaking sweat this morning after winning a pair of Yamaha mirrors for 99p but £6 postage.
The financial controller would not be pleased.

Bigsax wrote:

Comberjohn wrote:I've just removed the fairing from my RT and took it out for a test run today.What a revelation losing all that high up weight. Feels like a different bike.
Not to everybody's taste but it was great fun.
Need to change the bars to something lower than the RT.

My question is has anyone had any success with moving the clocks lower down, as they look a bit out of place where they are?
If so, how was it done?
If I could lower them by about 3" I could move the headlight down a bit too.
Using standard K100 parts would be nice but they are rare 2nd hand and would cost the price of the bike to buy new.

Any ideas?

G'day Comberjohn, I love the new look, the bike looks timeless not 25 years old at all! Check out my post for tidying up the rear end for more minor mods.

Mate I have a pair of RS bars and dash pad spare. I was going to list them on Ebay but pm me if you are interested in them. I could get a shipping quote.

What post are you talking about,Im always interested in trimming my ass;)

frogy wrote:

Bigsax wrote:

Comberjohn wrote:I've just removed the fairing from my RT and took it out for a test run today.What a revelation losing all that high up weight. Feels like a different bike.
Not to everybody's taste but it was great fun.
Need to change the bars to something lower than the RT.

My question is has anyone had any success with moving the clocks lower down, as they look a bit out of place where they are?
If so, how was it done?
If I could lower them by about 3" I could move the headlight down a bit too.
Using standard K100 parts would be nice but they are rare 2nd hand and would cost the price of the bike to buy new.

Any ideas?

G'day Comberjohn, I love the new look, the bike looks timeless not 25 years old at all! Check out my post for tidying up the rear end for more minor mods.

Mate I have a pair of RS bars and dash pad spare. I was going to list them on Ebay but pm me if you are interested in them. I could get a shipping quote.

What post are you talking about,Im always interested in trimming my ass;)

Post title
pics of my k100 rear end tidying efforts so far

Thanks I will try and track it down later.

try here froggy https://www.k100-forum.com/t5363-pics-of-my-k100-rear-end-tidying-efforts-so-far#59994

Thanks Charlie

Got the flyscreen fitted and managed to lower the clocks by about 23mm by drilling new mounting holes on the bracket. The screen is made by Puig and flairs out around the clocks.
Looked into using the RS bracket but any I've seen are fixed to the yoke quite differently from the RT.

[img][/img]

Tried to change the bars to a pair from a Suzuki 1400 but find that the bars are slightly wider in diameter than the BMW ones so the controls won't go over them. So shelved that idea in the meantime.
Just waiting for the mirrors to arrive.
Now I'm thinking about an exhaust change.
Once you start...

Looking really good.

Comberjohn wrote: Once you start...

What have you done man



Actually I like the look of that CJ. Be interested to see how it works on the road.

88

I'll give you a spin on it next time we meet up, Will.
I'm warning you though, you might like it.

Comberjohn wrote:I'll give you a spin on it next time we meet up, Will.
I'm warning you though, you might like it.

I'll take you up on that and I'm already afraid I might like it.

PS - down the road, if you decide you are not going back to RT mode and not using them, can I have first dibs on your bar risers?

Looking great! The screen looks like it was made for it.

Decided to keep the RT bars. Just waiting for the mirrors to arrive.
Note the cleaner looking back end with the luggage rack and pannier rails removed. Change of exhaust would be nice.



The flyscreen seems to work well, although I must admit, a couple of times today I did miss the fairing with the temperature being on the low side. Hmm, maybe I need to find another RT for next winter.
But sure its Spring now, isn't it!