Hi
I recently purchased an oil and water pump seal kit which included the original water seal.
This seal has a plastic cover. I read a post on the Imbwr website which suggests the plastic cover is removed after the seal is installed. There are also eight plastic tabs surrounding the seal.
Inside the plastic cover there is a round metal washer with a rubber insert..slip/sealing ring?
The post mentions having the plastic cover removed but the photo shows the seal installed with the plastic cover attached and only the plastic tabs removed.
The seal has a black rubber base with a spring mechanism.the metal washer with the rubber insert sits on the spring.
Not certain how this arrangement creates a seal.
Can Anyone shed any light on this situation?

Thanks
Gabriel

The plastic cover keeps the seal assembled, and will break away when
the seal being installed.

Thanks for your reply.
I don't understand how the seal functions.
When I shake the seal, I notice the top half of the seal is separated from the base. The top half of the seal resembles a round metal disk with a round rubber insert.

Have a look at this., and this.

Be aware that the seal have ceramic parts, and must be pressed in.
Let the hammer stay in the toolbox.

Does the plastic cover break off when the spacer and impeller is reattached, and if so how is the plastic parts removed from the pump?

I noticed there is a spring inside the seal and the seal can be pressed in but expands again when the pressure is released.
Which part of the seal is ceramic? Is it the inner black collar on the inside of the spring?
Thanks for the info.
Cheers

The cover break off when the seal is installed in the pump housing, and must be removed before you mount the impeller.

The stationary sealing face is usually the ceramic part.......but this seal have been changed six times all together.

Thanks for the reply.
When the plastic cover is removed there is a metal washer with an inner rubber ring which separates from the seal's base.
Does the spacers and impeller keep the two parts together and is the spring compressed when the impeller is installed?
Does the impeller shaft have a tight fit with the base of the seal as well as the sealing ring.
Both holes appear to be the same circumference?
If so how is the shaft able to rotate when the base is stationary?
Still don't understand how the seal creates a watertight seal. Oh we'll, I will understand it one day.

Cheers

gabriel wrote:Does the impeller shaft have a tight fit with the base of the seal as well as the sealing ring.
Both holes appear to be the same circumference?
If so how is the shaft able to rotate when the base is stationary?

The sealing ring has a smaller inner diameter than the base.

The seal have a stationary part, and a rotating part.
The spring adds pressure at the sealing surface between these two parts.



When mounting the seal, apply pressure here:

Hi

I have finally complete the necessary repairs on my Bmw k100 and its back on the road.
I have a few Photos stored on my iPhone and iPad. 
Unfortunately I don't know how to upload them to this forum. Here is a summary of my experiences.
-it was the dreaded grub screw? In the gearbox which was the start of my troubles.
I managed to remove the gearbox. I had no issues loosening bolts but for whatever reason decided to remove the clutch and pressure places.. Big mistake....I accidentally bent one of the pins belonging to the front pressure plate.
Exhaust studs were in good condition.adfq
There was no sign of a leaking rear main seal. The area was clean. 
I purchased a new clutch assembly. I decided not to disturb the rear main seal....perhaps a mistake? Time will tell...
The splines are in excellent condition....the final drive splines are in excellent condition and gave the appearance of nickel plating?
None of the bolts or components showed any sign of rust.
I lubed the splines including the clutch components and replaced the gearbox.
The clutch lever at the rear of the gearbox was removed and lubed.
I recovered the seat, gave the engine cases, final drive and gearbox a polish.
Replaced the rubber screws? Underneath the battery.
The bike is original and I don't intend to make any changes which was not included when the bike was built. I adhere to the KISS principle although I always appreciate the effort and skill that goes into bike renovations. The less I do to my bike, the less chance anything will go wrong...
Cosmetically the bike is in average condition which is surprising considering the engine, gearbox and splines appear to be in excellent condition.
I have owned the bike for approx ten years and apart from the grub screw and a faulty battery, is extremely reliable.
Engine fires up as soon as I press the starter button.
I don't know the bike's history but consider myself to be lucky..either the bike was looked after or was built on a Monday morning.I was fortunate to have in my possession the original version oil seal.
Yes, the threaded section of the shaft broke off when I tried to remove the oil seal, but was able to have it replaced at the Ktm dealership in hoppers crossing in Melbourne.
I used Reinzosil? Sealant. I simply replaced the oil and water seals.
I used a socket to insert the seals. Took a couple of minutes to replace.
Installing the o ring for the coolant was difficult. Took a few tries for me to install. No issues with water or oil leaks.
I oiled the cam shafts and replaced the rubber gaskets when I installed the engine cases.
I turned the engine by hand to try and distribute the oil.
I replaced the petrol in the fuel tank. The fuel pump and rubber components were in excellent condition.
Didn't touch the fuel injectors. Cleaned the spark plugs.
After stAnding for five years, I pressed the starter and the engine fired within The second attempt.
Surprisingly there was no smoke from the exhaust.
I suppose we often only hear from those who are experiencing issues with their bike....blocked fuel injectors, stale fuel creating a mess in the fuel tank.
I'm starting to appreciate how fortunate we are in Australia to have access to quality fuel and no need to salt the roads.
When I read about the condition of some of those bikes undergoing renovation, I consider myself lucky to own a k100 in original condition.
The battery was on trickle charge for the last five years.
Yes, it does make a bit of a racket when I start the bike but quickly disappears
I will deal with that problem when it Stops me from riding my bike.
My motto is " if it's not bothering me, I leave it alone.
I often find less is more when talking about motorcycle maintenance. 
I give the bike regular oil changes. Replaced the water temperature sensor and filters. I didn't mess with the AFM.
That's about it.
I'm on the lookout for front disks and a rear light lens.
I'm currently trying to resolve the issue with the low beam not switching on.
I know electricity is getting to the left side switch because when I short two of the connections, the low beam switches on...
K100 is a pleasure to ride. It's smooth and comfortable to ride and reliable.
Definitely looking forward to summer. Riding in the rain sucks especially when my riding gear is not waterproof.
I'm also thinking about a r1150r...any opinions????
If I buy one, I will keep my k100...
Take care and thanks for reading my post.
Still trying to figure out how to post photos.
I used an iPad.
Very sad to hear about Rossko passing away.  
Take care on the roads.

Gabriel..1984  k100