Good Morning All 

I'm up for the water pump seal change and have been reading the different threads about how to go about it 

I have read in many of the threads that the first time around you normal stuff one of the seal 

Is it the waterside seal that people stuff up on or is it the oil side?

Just want to get an extra seal once I place my order with Motor-bin so I don't have to wait for the three week delivery over Xmass

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:
Is it the waterside seal that people stuff up on or is it the oil side?

Water, as it has delicate ceramic internals.

as Inge say the water side is often the issue


but more importantly , its a matter of digging out the oil side seal , completely , many just don't go deep enough and leave fragments of seal behind the support ring which is almost at the face of the full seal but not quite ,  you need to see base aluminium . and a full view of the breather hole that exits through the housing , down at the sump area



washers over the shaft will let you pull the shaft through the water seal safely with the bolt on the front of the shaft

if you have the earlier model water pump with the thread extruding from the shaft rather than the internally threaded shaft  could pose another issue

so 86 and later should be ok for this .but early 86 ....well I had an old version installed ...enough said . but thanks to alby .we had a saviour replacement phew ...back on the road in a day .

Thanks Inge, Charlie 

Its the old cast iorn impleller type 

So i will be up for the new gear and shaft as well 

Charlie as your in brisbane do you know if Bm workshop do exchange ?

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:

Its the old cast iorn impleller type 

So i will be up for the new gear and shaft as well 

You would also need a stamped impeller and spacer, as the seal isn't compatible
with the cast iron impeller.

You can ring him but as he is now a one man show, it can take quite a few calls to get him. If he is working on something he won't answer the phone. I believe he will rebuild your own pump if you take it in, I don't know whether he will do an exchange, but it won't hurt to call.http://bmshop.com.au/
Regards Martin.

Mathew

I think all ks up to 89-90 and some later with the 8 valve motor had the cast impeller

the newer style impeller came about with the production of the 16 valve versions I believe ...I could be wrong  , but would make sense to me

so with this newer part available  all production of the old stuff would have ceased

the kit from motobins is about 60 aussie sheckles including the new style impeller

but the important part is to prise off the cover and inspect the shaft fitting , either nut or bolt type ,  what year model do you have again ?

ill have a look around but I don't think I have a good shaft ...have a good body ready  but that's it

chris can be notoriously unavailable at times ,as martin says ,  and I think he does do an exchange service , but I'm afraid I would hate to guess what price he may charge for the parts alone .  but would be glad to be proved wrong .
 I believe motoworks do an exchange service as well but at 150 pounds plus deposit and freight might be worth while thinking again

Hi! I read a lot of your stories but still doubts about proper repair kit for oil/water pump rebuilding...     Mine had the original of course old type of seals (completely destroyed), old type cast iron impeller and bolt (not nut). Shaft is slightly pitted but I think to keep it.     I buyed new kit and put   1.- oil seal: just dropped in place, no need to hammer as on tutorials, it is not tight at all, has maybe even like half mm of space in diameter to move slightly in any direction - IS IT NORMAL?        2.- water seal: "hammered in place" and made it in 2 pieces by mistake while pushing the rod through at the first time.  Than reassembled it (at least seemd OK) and inserted the rod buy nuts and spacers with more intelligence.   Now water is leaking from the bottom hole, after reassembly.   IS WATER SEAL DEFINITELY DIED or is an assembly mistake? Do I need the SPACER that comes with the kit also with cast iron impeller? Thank you for any advice for these 3 issues. Greg

Don't use the cast iron impeller if you are puting a new seal in. The seal will be destroyed when you tighten the bolt. Use the spacer and pressed steel impeller or you can machine 3 mm from the boss of the cast impeller.

Thaks Rick G! Now it is quite clear. This +3mm of cast iron impeller thickness vs spacer kills the water seal. I will follow your recommendation.                 ...UPDATE: I machined cast iron impeller to the same wall thickness (internal cavity deepness) of the spacer. As soon as new water seal arrives I'll retry.