Hi all,
I'm finally ready to start posting reports of me and my son's progress for this build.
The story with this bike is that I bought it wrecked. It wasn't too badly damaged. Some the bodywork was damaged but a friend of mine repaired it. So I have, I think, all of the fairings and associated pieces and parts to hold it in place ... And I will not be using any of it. I will post some pics of these parts soon.
Anyway, regretfully, the bike did have to spend a couple of years outside and the plastic cover did get blown off a few times. The desert sun and the wind out here did it's damage.
So finally my son inspired me to begin the rebuild and so here we are and we have plans for this bike. It's not going to look very different from it's original look but I think that many of you out there have already seen these bike transformed into something else. .... I'm always afraid insulting the purist's out there but it's my bike and I can destroy it if I want to. I have no intention of destroying this bike I plan on reviving it from the dead.
I think I have just inserted an image. I'll check then continue.
Ed

Here is a pic ... I think.

"I'm always afraid insulting the purist's out there but it's my bike and I can destroy it if I want to."

Agreed.

and no picture that I can see!

Here it is. We got it somewhat stripped down and we're planing on modifying the frame so that the rear of the sub frame tubes will be higher. I've thought about how I would go about this without warping the frame, ... somehow, ... sooo, ...
I thouhgt I'd leave the frame connected to the engine so as to to hold it all in place and together. I thought that the engine would act like a frame jig.
Then once we get it the way we want it, I'll go ahead and separate the frame from the engine.
Ed

Ive always disliked the K100 saddle , too high up which causes instability in crosswinds. Soo I made my own special. I dunno how to add a picture, there is no here option to add one.

Hi redbaron,
Yes I had a difficult time trying to post a picture here also. My so had to figure it out for me. I use a Mac so if you have a PC, then I dodn't know how to do it or I'd tell you.
I would really like to see what you've done to the frame because I also think the ride seat height is too high. I am not tall and I almost have to jump onto the seat.
I would like to lower it slightly and make it a little more narrow.
Again, I'd really like to see what you've done. Good luck with the pics.
Thank you, Ed

Good Morning from the Southern Cal Desert,
I been thinking allot about accomplishing the all the tasks to bring this bike back to life, ... with a whole new attitude. Anyway that just means getting it all straightened out by dealing with the issue's that we have with her.
The first issue and the one that keeps coming to mind is that I'm NOT 100% sure about the engine. I was not able to get a satifactory compression test done because when I tested it, it tested very low: #1-90psi, #2-70psi, #3-90psi and #4-90psi.
It never occured to me to add oil into the cylinder and see if that helped it. But I did do a cylinder leak test to see if I had a problem that could be detected like a bad valve or bad piston rings. Anyway because of my ignorance and not wanting to remove the timing chain cover. We found that when we were on the compression stroke of each cylinder the engine would rotate so it wouldn't sit still on each compression stroke at TOP DEAD CENTER. The only way I could do the leak test was to put the transmission into gear and have my son try to hold the rear tire while I took the reading on the compression stroke of each cylinder. I had to help him hold the rear wheel while watching the gauge. So from what we could tell, we had less than 10% leakage from #1,#3 and #4 and less than 20% from #2. It looks like a tight engine and that's A GOOD THING.
Then someone suggested that I add oil to each cylinder and re-check compression. And I thought I should do that and put my mind at ease. When I was attempting to do the compression test, the first time, I noticed that my START switch was intermittant. It would work and crank the engine and then it wouldn't. So I decided to take the switch apart to see if we could clean it up. We ended up loosing one those tiny springs in the switch mechanism and could not find it. So obviously when I put it back together without that spring, my START switch would not work. I couldn't find my old remote START switch so I had to go buy a cheap one somewhere. I found one at Harbor Freight for $14.99 and it didn't work worth a damn. I was ready and set up and after only one crank on the engine it became intermittant then just came apart in my hand. So again no compression test results...
Next I went to the Napa Auto Parts store and found another remote START switch for only $18.99. I bought it put it on then the key ignition switch wouldn't even come on. And so I could not turn the engine over ... again.
So that's where I am concerning the actual health of the engine. I apologize for not taking any pictures from this FIASCO but I did the best I could to explain it to all of you.
I saw on here, somewhere somebody put a socket on the front of the engine crankshaft. I think that I should try again and this time I will remove the timing chain cover and put a socket on that front crankshaft nut. If anyone out there has had any kind of similar experiance I'd like to read about it.
This is one of the problems.....

Hi again,
Upon futher investigation, I decided to have at my fuel system...
This what I found when I took the filler cap assembly off and looked inside..
And this...

At first, I thought I was looking at RUST. But my son tells me it's aluminum.
And after looking at the tank closely, it must be an aluminum tank.
And so of course, the rest of the fuel system MUST be contaminated ...


So is ALL that crud in there just varnish?
So as anyone can see, I have my work cut out for me.

Send me those injectors. It will be a test of my flow bench and cleaning system. There is no charge if I cant restore them to proper function.

blakey wrote:and no picture that I can see!

Heh.. I know this is off topic for the thread but I thought I'd give my 2 cents anywayz.

For posting pics what I did was went to Gmail, created a blog, added the pics to the blog and then, from the blog, hovered the mouse over the image and selected "copy image location" and then came back to the forum and pasted the url into the box created by clicking the image icon.

maybe admin can add this instruction into the intro section or something . . it was the easiest fix for me

hope this helps someone :-)

Rjtrucker wrote:Send me those injectors. It will be a test of my flow bench and cleaning system. There is no charge if I cant restore them to proper function.

Hey Rjtrucker,
That's sounds like it's worth a try. Send me a PM with all your info and send them to you.

Ed

bemade wrote:

blakey wrote:and no picture that I can see!

Heh.. I know this is off topic for the thread but I thought I'd give my 2 cents anywayz.

For posting pics what I did was went to Gmail, created a blog, added the pics to the blog and then, from the blog, hovered the mouse over the image and selected "copy image location" and then came back to the forum and pasted the url into the box created by clicking the image icon.

maybe admin can add this instruction into the intro section or something . . it was the easiest fix for me

hope this helps someone :-)

Hey bemade,
That sounds even more complicated to me than this process, which I have just barely learned how to do ... and honestly, if it wasn't for my son, I probably would not have been able to figure it out on my own. Please remember that I am not of this younger generation who are seemingly born already computer literate. I'm just 2 years shy of half a century so when it comes to computeres, I'm a little slow.
Question. Is the method you described actually easier or does it offer more advantages i.e., more room to load data or better picture quality?

Ed

I have some body work if anyone is interested.

rotormotored wrote:Question. Is the method you described actually easier or does it offer more advantages i.e., more room to load data or better picture quality?
Ed

not sure if its easier but its easy for me. if you go to the blog you can see the full sized pictures by double clicking on the images so maybe thats an advantage

heres a sample:

http://mebemade1.blogspot.co.nz/

go there and double click the image of the SD900 at the bottom

Can anyone comment on the parts compatibility between this and 1991 k100rs 16v?

I'de be interested in some of those.. but mine's a 1991. From the picture, those look
right, but I could use the advice of some more experienced members in here on compatibility
issues between years.

I also live in So-cal and am in the process of bringing my RS back to life after a series of
marginal owners.

Easy to find out just go to the real OEM site and compare part numbers http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do

Hi again,
Someone told me to try putting "Simple Green" mixed with hot water and just swish it around then let it sit for a while.
Well I poured a gallon of the green stuff into it and boiled some water then poured it in also.
It does look like it's helping but I'm going to let it sit over night. We'll see what it looke like in the morning.
I suppose I could also try the old throw a bunch nuts and bolts in there then shake up a bit.
After that maybe some "Easy-Off" oven cleaner.
After that maybe some "Scrubbing Bubbles"

Ed

Careful letting it soak too long. Simple green can eat at the aluminum if left too long. What strength was the mix? Also tank walls are not too thick and nuts might ding it from tbe inside.

Hey RJTrucker,

Thanks for the idea. Maybe I won't throw in the nuts and bolts.
Ithought I'd leave the mix of 1 gallon of SG to about half gallon of water in over night. Would that be too long?

Also, I'll be sending those injectors Monday.

Ed

I would add another half gallon of water. Dont let it sit over night. Drain it out and do it again tomorrow. When you plur it out you should see alot of muck come out. When you pour it back try to not pour the muck back in. A few rinses should get most of it out.

I'll pour this stuff out and do it again tomorrow. I'm very pleased with the results so far.
Now, once I finish rinsing the tank I'll have to get all the gunk out. And there's a bunch of it under the pump mount bracket.

While I was in there I just went ahead and I disconnected the wires and removed the fuel pump. So now I'm able to get a better look at the construction of the tank.
And the reason why I want to get a better look in there is because I'd like to modify the tank somewhat.
Anybody have any experiance cutting on one of these tanks?
I'm thinking ... smaller fuel pump ....Anyway, maybe that's another topic for another day.

Ed

Ed things are coming along nicely. I would rethink the jig issue as it would pay to grab some 2inch rhs and make a little jig use some 1/8 thick flat bar for the uprights to locate the frame and you have the option to take the frame in any stage with you to a engineer or muffler merchant if you need special welding done. Especially if you own a wagon the whole lot can slip in the back and be down at the mechanics in no time. Its just a rectangle with uprights. but handy if ya need to get a second opinion someplace. Also if you modify the tank consider this, The bosch unit used by these bikes is similar to the bosch units used in early mid 80's cars where the pump was just infront of the tank and as we now have dozens of injected bikes with other tanks that can be used you have the ability to pick and choose how you deliver fuel to the injectors, similar flow and pressure are available, and if you do cut up your tank it may prove easier to run an external pump with short pickups and a new return line, just bepend on whats in your head.

Hi K75cster,
Thank you for the info on the fuel pumps. I do plan on modifying the tank by cutting it. i will need to do some investigating on which type of pump I can successfully adapt to the modified tank. I know that there are plenty of options out there.
As far as the frame goes, the modifying is in progress. I will post pics soon.

Ed

Hi Again, everybody
I forgot to ask.
Does anyone have a pic of the fuel pump that goes into a K100 tank. Or can someone provide a link to a previous posting.
Thanks,
Ed

You put a pic of it three posts earlier, is that not the type of pic you want? actually you show it insitu and out of the tank, what were looking for in a pic??

I guess what I want to see is, does it come covered by some kind of plastic or rubber.
And is there a screen in there somewhere.
I guess I'll try to look at parts manual.
Sorry,
Ed

Could be that this picture would help:

Yes thank you, Mr.Inge K.
That is what I wanted to see.
I could not make out the shape the black piece and my screen is gone.
I trust that you are staying warm over there in Norway.

Ed

Hi again,
Well we are finally able to move forward on this build. After much thought and attempted planning, we came to a desicion on what to cut and exatcly where. Even though some of you would disagree what we did, we are sticking to our guns on this.
We chopped the frame at 4.625" behind the fuel tank mount points on the top tubes. Then we chopped the down rear diagonal tube that comes down and welded just above the rear transmission mount.
But before we cut we tack welded supports across and before the chop line. So as to prevent the frame from warping. I wish we had a proper frame jig for doing this. But I guess the best we could do is just simply garage engineering. Not the proper way, I know but we think we were to preserve the alingment and integrity of the frame just fine.
And incidently, if anyone has ANY good ideas on building a proper frame jig, I'm all ears ... and eyes.

I'll admit that I wish I had better methods but I think we should be able to produce a good look with good results.

It's all a bout the triangles, ... right?

Ed and Matt

Definately all about the triangles, Are you planning on a metal rear guard?

Hi K75cster,
I'm not sure what you mean by rear guard. Do mean like a flat piece sheet metal attatched to the rear diagonal down tube to act as a fender/mud guard?
And not sure that we've come to that point in our planning ... yet.
Can you please explain or provide some kind of pic?

Ed and Matt

Hi again,
I really wasn't crazy about actually cutting part of the frame off. Especially right down the middle of the triangle and in effect destroying the strength of the frame.
Since I don't own any kind of frame jig or fixture I decided to take matters into my own hands. I've seen people chop all kinds of stuff then weld somethig to it and most of the time, it all seems to turn out OK.
So if I was going to do this, I was going to make sure that I would take every precaution to make to ensure that the frame did not get bent or distorted or misalinged in any way. So that's why I had my son tack weld smaller diameter temporary cross members at every point which was to be cut.


Temp cross members tacked into place


Matt's doing the tack welding



But we needed to know exactly how thick this tubing was and that's why we cut here first. It seemed like a safe first cut.


So that is the way we did it. We kept it rigid where we cut it.
The next thing I did was to make sure that those two top tubes were cut square and were equal lenths from the fuel tank mounts. I took the frame to work with me and just secured it to the tail gate of my little truck and went to work with a file and a machinsit square.


Just like an little old mexican woman selling tamales out of the back of her truck.


Bringing my work home with me, ... or is it the other way around...

Ed and Matt

You went and cut the triangle. You are a braver man then me. If you need a frame I have a few here. With and without titles. I would have done it with a spare before cutting the original one. I am sure it will be fine but you will need to watch it in the beginning for signs of flex or stress.

Hey Ron,
Yes we did. But just know this, ... I took your advice. I am just making new triangles.
I remembered you telling me that it's ALL about the triangles. I do plan on keeping an eye on it by inspecting it every day.
I just might have to take you up on one of those frames if this one goes south. We shall see.

Ed