Replacing the fork seals and slowly getting to know the bike from front to rear. So far nothing surprising aside from
the usual neglect one would expect, plus the work time and weather have done on it. I'm certainly getting to know
K-Bikes better this way. As with Volkswagens.. beautiful, clever design. There's a reason I have always been drawn
to these bikes.

My current problem is the allen bolt in the fork slider that you access from below after removing the axle/tire...

Seems unusually tight. I am afraid of giving it the "twist of death" that strips the head and will put me in the position
where I have to remove the entire fork tube and drill off the head of the bolt to get it off. Something I am unclear on is whether or not the spring needs to be removed, or at least the tension taken off of it from above by unscrewing the fork tube "cap" (I don't mean the bolt that plugs the oil fill hole) at the top end of the fork. Does the spring create tension on this fork slider bolt that
would make it more difficult to remove? Having looked at the exploded parts diagram in the RS100 manual for a 1991 (which is what mine is) It doesn't appear to but I have no experience. Anyone know if the spring tension must be released before loosening
the bolt at the bottom of the fork slider?

You will be far better off if you have tension from the spring when you release the bolt, it will help prevent the inner part from turning with the bolt. Just crack the bolt then remove the spring before completly removing the bolt.

So the springs ultimately have to come out as part of the slider seal replacement? I can see
how spring tension would hold the innards and prevent them from twisting with the bolt. What
a headache that would be if they twisted with the bolt. The manual seems to advise that you
take the tube off and the tree apart, basically. I have read other posts in other forums and in
this one saying you can remove just the slider and replace the seal, but this may have applied
to other years/other forks.. I have marzocchis, not showas. I'll do what it takes to do
it right, but if I don't need to take the whole tree apart, I'll avoid it for now.

Also, how much force does the spring exert on that cap at the top end of the fork tube when the front
wheel is off the ground and the forks are fully extended? Just want to have an idea what kind
of kick is waiting for me as the last thread lets go. I've done this on dirtbikes before, and it was nice
to have an idea of how much force to answer back with and exert so as not to be excessive, yet also
not allow anything to get damaged because of unexpected motion or tools/parts going haywire or any
other loss of control so close to the instrument cluster and so many other vital and expensive parts.

+ 1 on the spring tension being active whilst the bolt is "cracked "

mine turned ever so slightly on one leg .....i pulled the whole leg and got a mate to hold more tension (compressing the spring whilst assembled ) bolted up a piece of steel to the caliper mount so he could resist the turning tension whilst applying down force ...and after a good hit with a nice sized hammer on the right fitting allen key to 3/8" adaptor with extension ....(just to break the stickyness ) hey presto the bolt undid ...with no damage

crikey i was grinning after that

good luck okr

When I did mine, K1100, I left the wheel in place to loosen that bolt, remove the wheel etc and slide the bottom tube off. I then slide the new seals and old ones over the inner tube, the old ones on top; opened the filler plug up top, filled the lower leg with new oil and fixed into position, careful not to let oil run out the bottom. Using some pvc waste pipe cut down the side, knock the new seals in place using the old seal as a buffer then cut the old seal off. Dont know if this will work on yours but I found this way it handy enough.

GMcQ

okr wrote:... I have read other posts in other forums and in
this one saying you can remove just the slider and replace the seal, but this may have applied
to other years/other forks..

On my 1988 K100RS, with S type Fichtel & Sachs´s forks, thats the way.
Best regards
JAP

The left fork came off easily enough. While it was on a lift I didn't want to exert the amount of force I could see it was going to require to remove the allen bolt concealed by the front axle that holds the lower slider on, so I moved the entire
left tube assembly to a bench vise (cushioned & protected by wood in the jaws) and promptly..... stripped the aluminium
8mm allen head screw!..

Any advice as to what the next step is to get the thing loose? Feels like it was tightened by a gorilla. Quite
a few of the allen screws on the bike's front end have made me feel a little uneasy as I loosen them. Most
are corroded. This thing has spent a lot of time outdoors and the fasteners are worse for it.

As I look at the exploded parts diagram for the marzocchi forks, I realise this may be a little more than just
a screw. It appears to be a machined part with an o-ring, although from looking down the top end of the fork, it appears
to be just a bolt. Anyone gotten themselves out of a similar jam? I'de like it to be a home garage fix if possible,
although I also have access to a decent machine shop where I work. For that matter, home's a pretty decent
machine shop as well

On the positive side, the delay has given me time to rethink my maintnenance plans. I think I'll be going over
the bike from nose to tail, starting with the forks to uncover any dodgy repairs. So far I have only come across
benign neglect and missing small bits like washers or fairing screws that might have rattled out and been lost.
And of course, the tool kit..

Also- anyone noticed uneven wear patterns on their center stand bushings? Left side (port, not starbord) center stand bushing
exhibits quite a bit more wear than the right (starbord) side.

Frontal



Still need wood pieces to clear the exhaust manifold



I like this jack..



One legged, "Eileen"



Wheel's seen better days. New tires to follow fork seal replacement

.

I'll be lubing the steering bearing too..

Don't see you have much option but drill the head of the bolt. It is an ordinary bolt and the O ring just prevents the oil escaping.
With the bolts that are corroded put an allen head drive in the head and give a good solid hit with a hammer, that will make life a lot easier.

just make sure you get yourself some good fitting hardened 3/8 drive to allen head adaptors ....

the torque available from a bare allen key is nowhere near the precission and strength of a good adaptor and appropriate 3/8 drive setup you might only need a few sizes ...5mm 6mm and 8 mm to do just about all that front end

soak your screws - threads with some form of penetrating oil at least 24 hours before you attempt to release them ...if corrosion is evident

dont forget to punch the head of the bolt with a well fitting adaptor and extension bar ....the shock often helps release the galling between the thread and screw

yeah the bushings on the centre stand are often overlooked ,,,and just about every one ive seen would do with a replacement .......but that doesnt seem to affect the operation on the old rounded bottom type centre stands ...i guess they just sit against the exhaust and buzz away wearing all the time that you are riding ./

once you go to the k1100 -16 valve type stand that wear does affect the pull (push ) required to get it off the centre stand and back onto the road ,,im sure the radius of the bush changes the attack and angle in relation to the setback angle ....a few mm makes a big difference

Rick G wrote:Don't see you have much option but drill the head of the bolt. It is an ordinary bolt and the O ring just prevents the oil escaping.
With the bolts that are corroded put an allen head drive in the head and give a good solid hit with a hammer, that will make life a lot easier.

From what I have observed from the metal shavings, the bolt appears to be made of aluminum. This would explain
why the head stripped so easily. I haven't finished drilling it out yet, but I wonder- is it important that the replacement
be aluminum or could it be steel? Don't see why the manufacturer went with aluminum when steel fasteners are
as common as dirt, and likely just as cheap, but the fact that they chose that material over other materials which
would seem, to me, to make more sense, sends a red flag up in my mind. It might seem illogical but it was probably
done with deliberate intent.. I can't think of any torque issues with alu/alu vs. alu/steel, provided we're not talking about unusually high torques, and the difference in weight between alu. vs. steel fasteners of identical size, to my mind, is negligible.

Also came to discover mine has progressive springs in the forks.. at least the left side fork.

I can't see why steel would not be OK. I'd have no hesitation using it.

It was a change during -91, early models have a special screw which is also is
a part of the internal valve assembly.
Later models using a cartridge damper (same as K11's) and have more
conventional screw...exept the narrow head.

Ah Ha so the K100 16v were different to the K1100 forks, I thought they were the same. Silly me.

You wasn't that wrong, similar to the K 11 from ~mid -91.
We don't know if okr got a early or late -91....yet.

Verdict is in.. it's an early 91' Just bought the 2 parts I had to destroy in order to remove for ~$150.00 shipped. Ouch.
A few pics for the benefit of anyone who finds themselves in the same situation.. My biggest concern doing this was that
I had no idea how wide or how deep I could go without damaging the lower slider. Just had to cross my fingers and
dive in. Luck was on my side this time. The other fork is going to go much easier now that I know what I am dealing
with.

A jig to hold the fork..





The troubled part itself:





A few pics to give a sense of size and scale for anyone who may need to do this themselves. Knowing how
much space you've got before damaging something is crucial. I used an 11/64 drill bit (US size.. )