There is too much competition on these pages so if I get a result half as good I will be pleased.
Ex NSW police bike. Only had 40k on it when I purchased it about 15 years ago. As you can see from the picture it still looked fairly policey.

It originally had two blue reflectors on the crash bars and I still have the blue light for the back (not sure if that is legal or not? If not, pretend I didn't say that).
On more than one occasion toll collectors tried to wave me through without paying and cars would suddenly brake in front of me when I came up behind them.
So after sitting idly for 10 years I have started.
Step forward to two days ago and I think you will agree she doesn't look quite the same

The old engine might just become a coffee table.

And a few tools

And a fairing that I hope will stay on top of the shelf. The shelf just above the tank is the 'clean' shelf. I think I still have a lot to do. The old engine on its end is from a donor bike, as is the frame. The engine has come in very handy when checking the best cleaning method for some parts. I just wish I had drained more oil out of it before up-ending it

Some more organised storage

A clean garage is the sign of a sick mind. That's your frame there Saxon7

Keeping the dirt out


Thats it. Engine off to the shop on Thursday to get the cross threaded plug fixed. Frame off to the stippers. Lots of cold nights with steel wool and sunlight soap ahead. Maybe I can fill the tankard with bourbon to ward off the chill.

rossco

Arrr to be sure a shed after me own heart how on earth do you keep it so clean.

Not a lot going on. Just random cleaning of bits and a cross threaded plug fixed.
But after reading about the soda cleaning I thought I would give it a go.
Works like a charm. Here is my little setup thanks to Halo and Blakey. The gun is from Supercheap. A mate bought it for about $30 but did not have a lot of success though he was trying to remove lots of rust and paint for a Camaro. I had to test the rig at a mates place as I did not have a compressor that was strong enough.


Here are the throttle bodies after not a lot of work.


And the footpeg brackets. Keep in mind, the bracket was done with the rig you see at the bottom. 2hp, 21L tank and 80L/m. I am showing the back of the bracket as the front, while cleaner did not have the contrast in the photos to see the difference.



Baby blower


That's it for now. On the hunt for a decent compressor to really clean it up. And here was me all this time thinking elbow grease and sunlight soap was the best cleaner.

rossco

So I have been cleaning and rubbing and blasting all the add-on bits like covers n stuff.
Looking at Halo's paint job and looking at my engine I can see what has to be done.
Pull off the black bits and paint them.
I don't really want to. The less I have to reassemble the better for me. While I enjoy doing this stuff, due to my inexperience I end up doing most of it twice because I forget something along the way.
So I see I have to remove the clutch to remove the sump so I can clean and paint it. I am not overly happy about that.
I guess I don't have any alternative, but I wish someone would suggest one.

I am guessing some leaked brake fluid made that mess on the front
cheers
rossco

getting there rossco ...keep at it mate !!!

You can avoid removing the clutch if you really don't want to.... with the swingarm and gearbox removed you can then drop the engine out as a single lump. Then tape up everything that you don't want to get "dirty" or "cleaned"

However it is a whole lot easier if you make bits "smaller" Have a look at my renovation post, will give you an idea of how the parts all look in a Matt black, If you decide to spray the parts rather than paint them (you get a lot better result that way.) have a practice on a spare sheet of metal.

The bottom of my trailer is where i tend to have a practice spray! All your really doing with the practice spray is just setting up the pressure for the gun and the rate of flow for paint.

It's well worth the finished result I feel.

Decided. Not going to remove the lower engine. I will work around cleaning and painting it. I feel more confident that way.
I did however pull off the oil/ water pump.
From what I can see it is the old cast impellor. Should I upgrade it to the funky new looking one? As a kit I believe.
I was going to skimp on a new seal though. I think I can save this one. I remember where most of it goes.


So after a bit of a clean up, I am not sure I have removed all of the old seal. There is a 0.5mm ish lip of metal down near the bottom and a black ring inside it. The photo is not that great but it does kind of show what I am seeing.
Well, after reading the excellent article on fixing said pump, maybe all I am seeing is the remains of the old black rubber? seal that is shown as blue on a new seal.
Here is the photo anyway.


Need to go now. I was just handed a Mint Pattie. mmmmmmm Not sure how that translates for the rest of the world

cheers
rossco

rossco wrote:So after a bit of a clean up, I am not sure I have removed all of the old seal. There is a 0.5mm ish lip of metal down near the bottom and a black ring inside it. The photo is not that great but it does kind of show what I am seeing.

You`re correct about that it`s a piece of the seal still is left inside.
Here is a picture of the rear side of this older type of slip ring seal:

looks like there is a bit more to go yet rossco ...you need to find the void ....and then the oil pump seal

this is what i did





there should be 3 distinct areas along the recess for housing of the seals the oil seal ar the deepest section ...dome side out ....the "void" path - breather area had been blocked by coagulation of decrepid rubber and dirt ...and was quite difficult to clean out fully , but with a 2.5 mm drill and some brazing rod and degreaser ..it all cleared out pretty well



but get the new impeller mate ....fitts up well and you wont need to stuff around trying to cut sections off the old one to fit with the new seal ...just get the kit .

Rossco just came across your thread well done your doing a great job keep it up you will get there . You did a great job on the blaster cabinet mate.

Halo

Had a win today. Actually two wins. Drove for an hour, each way, to get me some Plasti-kote paint. Satin and gloss. $12 a can
Offered a guy $200 on ebay for a compressor. Said he wanted it to go to auction. Waited 5 days and paid him $150.
Soda cabinet here we come.
Did I mention the 8 beers tonight? James Squire Pilsner. mmmmmm

done.
rossco

Well, after getting what I think is the oldest working compressor in Sydney I set about some serious blasting.
So I went to the hardware and got me some compressor bits. Hose, quick release fittings, nozzle thing. Also some clear tubing and some more soda.
Then I went back to the hardware and got some compressor oil and some more clear tubing.
Then I went back to the hardware and got some glue sticks for the hot glue gun.
Then I went to the recycle bin and got a PET bottle and a handily sized washing powder container.
After a bit of drilling and glueing, this is what I came up with.





I cut a hole in the bottom of my existing little box thing and dropped my new 'gravity fed, vacuum assisted, under cabinet soda dispensing unit' into the hole. Filled the unit up with soda (3 small boxes) and voila.
As I blast away, the soda is sucked from the bottle. The vacuum created then sucks more soda into the bottle ( with a bit of help from good old gravity) and constantly refills it. Enough of the soda manages to find its way back into the unit to allow almost continuous blasting.



That's it. Next time I fire it up, I think I may try to use it outside. The garage looked like an early fog had landed after I had finished this afternoon.
I have no idea how others have managed to get a good flow of soda to the hose. Because of its properties, it does not 'flow' like sand does and was constantly bridging and just sucking air. Not any more.
If anyone wants to use this idea, the copyright office does not open till nine am tomorrow. That gives you a few hours to go crazy with my soda dispensing unit

Now, if I can just work out how to get the engine in there???

rossco

Like Charlie I jut had my first look at this thread. The soda blasting kit is working out nicely.

I glad to see you have the same approach to shedology as me...stop and tidy up at least once a year! . Looking forward to seeing more good results Rossco.
88KE

I am using a sealey sand blasting cabinet for mine... The only problem is that the soda doesn't go to the left hand side where the picup is... To help with the room dust problem, my hoover (garage one not the house one!) is connected via a filter on the side this helps to remove a lot of the dust

Just in the process of having the frame soda blasted. Then it is on to painting.
What do people suggest? I am looking at the KBS kit, but not really sure. I imagine there is no pressure pack can option? I have a mate with a spray booth, but if I don't have to go down that path I would be happier.

cheers
rossco

What's a KBS kit?
I only ask this as I seem to have a frame here that I could paint.

Sean.

Hey Saxon
KBS is a paint brand. Seen it mentioned a few times in here. Halo used it I believe on his engine bits.
Here they have a starter kit that I believe is just enough to do a bike frame. $30 odd dollars. Neeed a spray gun etc though I believe
rossco

Ah ok, I just googled them. Thanks Rossco. I have a spray set up made from an old vacuum cleaner. Will happily do the frame with it, but not the glossy bits such as tank etc.

Sean.

Well in my haste to sell off old stuff I did not bother to check the
injectors I kept were any good. They did work in my bike, but when I
pulled them out to start on this quest I noticed a bit of a crack.

Not sure if it is terminal but based on the general condition of them I
thought it better to replace the lot.


Ebay to the rescue.
Fingers crossed I have done the right thing.
Just as an exercise in stupid pricing, these injectors cost me $30 each
posted to Oz. I asked a local dealer about the O rings as I had pulled
mine previously and wanted to replace the rings. $8. EACH RING. $64 for
all eight. And we have a stupid retailer (Gerry Harvey) jumping up and
down saying online purchases are killing his business and wants us to
pay 10% GST on internet purchases. What do I care. When a local charges
prices like that, I could pay double that and still be in front.
Fuel pumps are expensive. Hornsby (Sydney) bike shop. $900. Just for the
pump. No hoses, no filter, no rubber mount. There is one on ebay right
now. GBP 96 plus 12 postage. I could give Mr Harvey 700% gst and still be in front.
rant over.

fingers crossed on the injectors.
Oh, and looking at the Pirelli Sport Demons as suggested elsewhere.
Oh, and Plasti Dip paint for the wheels. If I don't like it I can peel it off
rossco

Get into it mate, spring is sort of coming ( sleeting here today), we need a few more southerners to balance the next trip.
RT

Getting there RT. Tyres going on next week and various painting/ cleaning as I type (almost).

rossco

Have you got another velocipede on the road, Rossco?

Right then....there's a game of footy on.

This is my only bike. Unless you count the unicycle I have not ridden in 20 years.

So my clutch measures about 5.3mm overall. The bike has done 78k. Is it worth just putting back together or should I get a new friction plate? I have no idea how long 1mm of clutch lasts.

rossco

Jees a brand new one in mine was only 5.4mm. I think it will go a bit longer.

keep at it rossco ...sounds like your having fun ol mate

Thanks. Is this what we are calling fun?
Think I will have to install the incontinence pads when I actually get it on the road.
And I will take my clutch as fully functional.

This is up for sale. $600.


Its not mine, just saw the ad.

What is?

Oh.
Here it is again.

Ah, that's better! $600??? Geez...

Now the fun part.



Beer? Never drink it. Those must be someone else's bottles.

Here is a plug for my local bike shop.
After ringing round a few places on prices for tyres I got them from Castle Hill Motorcycles
2 pirelli sport demons, old tyres removed, fitted and balanced for $325.
The owner Michael is very friendly and helpful. Not sure how far his BMW experience goes, but I really don't care at the moment.

Now all I need to do is get the rest of the bike sorted.

rossco

Can I paint my calipers with caliper paint and then stick them in the oven at 200deg/c?
I pulled the back one apart to have a bit of a look, but also to paint it.
So it is now painted but I have to buy the caliper kit to put it back together.
If the brakes get hot anyway, can I just leave it together, give it a clean, paint with caliper paint and then bake it for an hour?
Am I missing something?
rossco

Sounds like a good price Rossco - check to see if they are H or V rated. I got mine for €250 (the pair) and discovered they were H rate (sustained speeds of up to 140kph) .

If you want to cruise faster than that -IIRC It's V rated you need. Which are, I suspect, a little more $$$.

I have a restrictor fitted to the bike but it will still cruise at 140+ all day, I've...eh....read .

When the restrictor comes off I'll be upgrading to V rated to be safer on long motorway spins.

Frame and Forks looking great! Keep it up

88KE

Don't be too concerned about putting a kit through the calipers.
All the BMWs I have owned, I have taken the calipers apart and returned them to srvice using the original seals etc. so long as the edges are nice and square and not ragged they will be ok. Clean the seal grooves and the pistons with a nylon pot scruber and wash and dry them carefully and London to a Brick they will be OK.

Thanks 88 and Rick.
The tyres are 100/90-18 M/C 56V front and 140/80 VB17 M/C 69V. Does that mean I got the good ones?
Speed limit here is 110km/h. If I get much over that I will be happy.

So I will put the caliper back together and see how it goes. It all looked fine when I pulled it apart. No visible wear.
I might just try cleaning the front two for starters. The rest of the bike has enough new paint on it. Who will notice a few less than shiney calipers.

Bed time.
Night and thanks

rossco

So I am at the put it all back together stage.
And the pull it apart again cause I forgot something stage
And then back together again.
So I was stuck on how to get the timing case cover and the seal over the shiney spinny thing at the front without the edges folding over on the seal.
This is where the Fanta came in.
I put this on the inside of the seal with the cap toward the front of the bike, pushed the timing cover back into place and hey presto. The fanta top came shooting out the front and the seal was perfectly in place. Score 1 for me.


Not sure if I should post this in the 'how to' section? I may lack a few photos, but this is at least as good as Alby's recent sprag clutch how to.
rossco

rossco wrote:Thanks 88 and Rick.
The tyres are 100/90-18 M/C 56V front and 140/80 VB17 M/C 69V. Does that mean I got the good ones?
Speed limit here is 110km/h. If I get much over that I will be happy.

rossco

Yep you got the good 'uns. Those tyres are good all the way up to 240kph - if you can get that far without getting your picture taken
88KE

So enough bits have gone back on the bike to crank it over and check lights etc.
I have put in oil and water. Is there some special way of cranking it over the first few times to get things wet? I imagine there will be a few dry parts. Water/ oil pump etc

rossco

rossco wrote:So enough bits have gone back on the bike to crank it over and check lights etc.
I have put in oil and water. Is there some special way of cranking it over the first few times to get things wet? I imagine there will be a few dry parts. Water/ oil pump etc

rossco

Hi mate,

Having done this just a few weekends ago, I thought I'd chip in...

I turned the bike over the first few times with the spark plugs out, and literally barely touched the starter button, just to get some fluid moving around the engine.

I then fit the spark plugs, and did the same ginger touching of the starter for about the next 6-7 times (so I could be sure the internals had a chance to rotate twice completely).

I stopped, checked for leaks and weeping, and proceeded to give her a 2 second tap on the starter.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Alex,
I was thinking of pulling the plugs, sticking it in gear and just turning the rear wheel by hand, but I did not think this would be enough to move stuff around. The engine was not stripped nor the head pulled off so there will still be residual oil on the surfaces in there. I guess the oil pump is self priming? Does it flood when you replace the oil and just go from there?
It would surely be easier to crank it over with the starter. I just have visions of grinding metal.

cheers

rossco

Start it as normal but just dont be hard on it till you get oil pressure.
if you want to get Oil pressure before you start it put a jumper lead to the starter terminal direct to the + terminal and give it a few 3-4sec bursts about 1min apart with the ignition off, this will prime the pump but I have never considered it is necessary to do.

I wanna see some photos!

rossco wrote:Thanks Alex,
I was thinking of pulling the plugs, sticking it in gear and just turning the rear wheel by hand, but I did not think this would be enough to move stuff around. The engine was not stripped nor the head pulled off so there will still be residual oil on the surfaces in there. I guess the oil pump is self priming? Does it flood when you replace the oil and just go from there?
It would surely be easier to crank it over with the starter. I just have visions of grinding metal.

cheers

rossco

I think I was being deliberately over cautious, since the entire drive line was stripped and re-built. That said, I'd still be taking it nice and easy, just to make sure all the internals get nice and moist.

By the way, when you installed the new oil filtre, did you fill it with oil beforehand? If not, it's a great way to ensure that any motor doesn't suck air.

Of course not. That would make sense. But thinking about it, is the oil sucked up and then pumped into the filter? or is it filtered first? I really should know more about this stuff before I start pulling things apart.

The rule of thumb I was taught says you always fill the filtre on the assumption it's the first place the engine pulls oil from.

It's pumped into the filter.

Well, I cranked it over. There is no fuel tank and was actually surprised the bike let me do anything like that without having all the connections on. Something must be working because the oil in the new sight glass disappeared. Charlie asked for a photo in another thread so I am putting it here to confuse him.

Obviously more work to do, but at least it is going back together.
Please, whatever you do anyone reading this, don't come here after seeing what Halo is doing. I hope I never have to put my bike up next to his. Oh the shame.





and then I put on my new seat. It does not fit. The base is too thick and sits in the tray under it. Lucky I have a spare tray that I can shave down to fit. There is no way after winning that seat on ebay I am going to not use it.



Footpeg is hanging off because I discovered the brake light sensor is not working. Seems the return spring is stuffed. Are these servicable? Guess it does not matter. If I don't try to fix it I cannot use it anyway.


That's it for now. I am thinking of getting it registered as is and paint it later. I am sooo keen to get back on it after 10 years.
rossco

And of course just found a post by Inge say it cannot be repaired.

starting to look pretty good rossco ....i like !