starting to look pretty good rossco ....i like !

charlie99 wrote:starting to look pretty good rossco ....i like !

See..he cught up with you Rossco! You can't outfox Charlie

It's looking good and very respectable - I wouldn't be worried about who I parked beside if I had yours!
88

Looking good mate!

Rossco I am really impressed with the progress how did you get the bell housing & swing arm & final drive & the wheels so clean so fast they look really good
Halo

aye! halo.... he did good huh ?

Yep thats for sure charlie

Halo wrote:Rossco I am really impressed with the progress how did you get the bell housing & swing arm & final drive & the wheels so clean so fast they look really good
Halo

Its all in the lighting. Take the photo from a good distance, at night, with a flash. But thanks for the comments.

She Lives!!!!!

Yes. Very exciting. Went to the wreckers and came up with a couple of fork mounted second hand front indicators. Probably not my first choice, but my daughter seems to think they do alright.
Wired the whole lot up. Have the mirrors on order from Motorworks so thought, what do I do now?
FILL IT WITH PETROL AND START HER UP.
I would like to say she started first go, but I had not done something up tight enough on the last injector end. Lot of fuel running out. Not sure what the problem was, but I managed to halt the flow.
Second go she had one backfire then vroooom. Runs like a dream. Smooth idle. So I stuck the seat on (with no mounting hardware) grabbed my 15 year old helmet, put my best thongs on and went round the block a few times.
Sat her in the drive till the fan turned on, had a bit of a spit from the radiator cap, but so far that is the only leak. Fingers crossed.
Needless to say it is o'clock here now .
Smiling as I type this
Just need some paint now. Or do I? I have the registration money in my wallet burning a hole big enough to fit the Bingara pub in.
rossco

Bloody good news and well done!

wooohoo ....excelent work .......yay !!!!

Looking good.......what`s done so far........congrats!

So I have the bike running and thought a trip round the block was in order. Not far. All good. Yesterday I got new oil for the drive and box. Drained the drive of what little was in there, replaced it, ran it, drained and refilled.
Put the socket on the gearbox drain plug and it didn't fit. Just turned round and round. Odd to have different sizes. Tried a few more sockets and none fitted. Back to the original. Realised it was turning and the drain plug was loose. Horror moment.
I drained the gearbox early on and forgot. So that is why the bike was making a rattling noise. Hopefully the residual oil gave enough protection for the gears in my 1km ride round the block.
Long story, added oil, drained, added again, plugs in, started up and surprisingly quiet now.
Lesson for the day... Remember where you left off.
Wish I had remembered that when I was half way round the block, glanced down and realised I had also not done up the bolts for the front wheel. shudder.
But on a brighter note, I did get the horn working
I think if I make this trip in November I may carry a few smoke flares to warn of trouble
rossco

I bought my Brick from a 'reputable' bike dealer on the Central Coast sight unseen off the internet. It was " Fully Serviced" and they delivered it to Guyra.
Stupidly, after a few weeks and doG knows how many Ks, I decided I might give it a service. Did the engine oil and moved on to the final drive and gearbox oils. Final drive changed, then when I undid the drain plug for the gearbox....nothing came out. Nix, nada etc. It had been running dry for weeks! It is a tribute to the toughness of that design that I then put oil in it and have been running it ever since without any problems whatsoever. I have lost count of how many times I have changed all the oils and I change the box and final drive oils before every major ride and it has never leaked or lost a drop from the gearbox. I suspect they drained it and forgot to fill it.
And the moral of this tome is to say...don't worry mate, a click or two wouldn't have hurt it!

onya rossco ...

no none of us have done that ....ever ...hehe... gigglesnort

shell be right mate ....i put 90 killometers (city driving) on the rolla with zip oil in the box and diff ..um just last week ..

Must have given you quite a shudder when you remembered the front wheel bolts! one of my favorite things about this site is how very human we all are when we have our moments of error,like when I set the tourqe wrench and read the nm instead of fp, then use it!

Took the bike for a bit of a run last night. RT inspired me to replace the fork oil using the Inge Bowl . No dramas. Replaced it with 5 weight as I have removed the fairing etc. Will test it out and maybe add some 10 to get a nice 7.5.

Anyway, the bike accelerates ok, but when I back off it sounds like the cam chain is rubbing on something. I checked it originally, but did not remove and checked for wear and it all seemed fine. The only part I took off was the spring mounted blocky pushy uppy thing to give a bit of movement to check the wear. Any thoughts? (knowing full well the answer )

rossco

rossco wrote:..... Inge Bowl .

Love it!

rossco wrote:..... The only part I took off was the spring mounted blocky pushy uppy thing to give a bit of movement to check the wear. Any thoughts? (knowing full well the answer )

rossco

I presume you put the spring back? Did you disturb the guide and check it could move freely before closing it back up?

88

Thanks 88

Pretty sure the spring went back in. From memory it was a bit of a bugger getting it back on the bike. It sort of locks in one position and had to put it under the guide to hold it in the right spot and then put the screws in?
That is as much a question as a statement.

I did not remove any other part of the chain system. Just the tensioner.

I doubt very much it would be the cam chain when you back of because despite popular belief the engine ALWAYS drives the camshaft (there are some exceptions such as Top Fuel Nitro engines where the engine will go from 2000rpm to 10,000 rpm and back in around 1 second) so the stress on the chain is always in the same direction, short lecture over.

I would be looking for other reasons of which there are many but to start does it only do it on the over run or when in neutral as well. It could be that the noise is always there but you only hear it when the engine is quieter on overrun and no exhaust noise. Excessive gear backlash in the drive train is often a reason as is uni joints.

I have only noticed the noise when the engine is under load ie me on it and riding. when revving in the garage there is nothing.
I will give it another go this afternoon and listen out for a noise on acceleration, but I think it would be loud enough to hear over the engine noise.
It is not a bad noise as such. It does not sound like bits are breaking off. Sounds just like dragging the chain up and over the edge of a desk.

rossco wrote: RT inspired me to replace the fork oil using the Inge Bowl . No dramas.

A really reliable piece of shit :suspect: ........got more than twenty years of testing on it`s neck.

There have been some small changes on the chain tensioner during the years.
Look through this, use google translate and have a big laugh at the same time.

Thanks Inge,
I love translate
"auf der Autobahn so richtig gut hoch ohne Ruckeln, auch ruhig bei Schiebebetrieb" =
" Rotates on the highway really good high, without jerks, also quiet in the push mode. "
Not sure what the push mode is?
I must admit I did not examine mine to the same extent, but there was nothing obviously wrong with any of the bits.

see what happens this afternoon

Ok. Went for a ride and noticed the 'rattle' again. Came home and managed to get it to happen in the garage. It is not the cam chain.
Going to look at the engine bars, exhaust and stand. Hopefully I can find it in there.

Is it possible that it, the driveshaft at the gearbox end be could?
Sometimes they a chattering noise when cold under deceleration make.
Sean.

Exhaust tightened.
Crash bar removed.
Stand checked
Vibration is at about 2800 - 2900 and up. Not gone much over 3500. This is on the centre stand and is both in gear and neutral. I would like to say it is on the left of the engine, but earlier I thought it was the cam chain so who knows.
Not sure if I am hearing things or not. I did not do any major removals on the engine. Covers, pump, sump plate, fuel rail/ injectors, throttle bodies and exhaust.
Little confused now

Your doing a grand job rossco, I love your ingenuity and make do approach that soda blaster is a treat, keep going.



BIG D

exhaust cover plate ?

Thanks Big D. Despite any ingenuity I may have had with the soda blaster, I lack the commitment of others to do a really first class job (see Halo's work. Awesome)

Exhaust cover is gone Charlie, but it is a similar sound, only more robust. If that makes sense.

It's not the innards falling out of the muffler is it? I had one do that and I refitted the heat shield twice before I found out the truth and saw the light through the other end of the muffler.

Hey Rick, don't think it is the muffler.
Went for a ride this arvo round the block again. Got up to 80kph. woohoo.
Stopped at an intersection and bang. Thought the clutch cable had broken, but no. Right at the end of the travel I have a tiny bit of play in the lever and the clutch will still engage and disengage. Got home ok.
An evening in the garage. Just me, Mrs Cooper and 6 of her finest daughters. Sparkling.
Fingers crossed for an explanation of the rattle/vibration/annoyance in the process.

rossco

Mmmmmmm.....Coopers red.

Damn, fixed the clutch issue. I did not do up the adjusting bolt and lock nut properly. Obviously was ok for a bit, but then something settled into the correct spot and that then required adjustment. Damn.
Garage time over.
What am I going to with the remaining 5 daughters?

I have to wait a week for the brake kit to turn up so I am pulling off the back of the bike to see if I can find this rattle/ vibration.
I guess there is no way to start the bike with the gearbox off as the starter bolts to it.
I was thinking of doing this to eliminate the engine from the noise and hopefully conclude it is the gearbox.
At least fathers day supplied me with 2 bottles of bourbon to help pass the time.
And licorice. Darrel Lea fathers day licorice bag. mmmmmmm

Read 88's post and tried the Hall sensor. No difference.
I am thinking the clutch.
Ordered new bolts just in case.
May as well give my hard earned to Motorworks instead of the pub this week.

rossco

So the new clutch bolts came.
I did try Ricks suggestion of Repco Champion bolts but decided to wait for the real deal.
The reason I replaced them was when installing the clutch, I rounded out the inside of one of the bolts.
So today I had a win.


Tried the new bolts with the engine in the bike and the stability made it a lot easier. Maybe too easy.

then I had a loss



A word sounding a lot like truck was mentioned.
Had the wrench set to about 14lb.
arrrgh.
I was hoping to start it this afternoon.

Drama averted.
After removing the clutch AGAIN the remainder of the bolt was far enough out I was able to grab it with my fingers and turn it out.

So how much torque do these things take?
Seems last time I almost got to Ricks stage of my elbow cracking. This time I was still tightening it up.
Bad bolt maybe?
The 6 bolts have some sort of green tinge to them.

That is a bad bolt. The green stuff is just a clear type of paint for corosion prevention AFAIK seen it on many different bolts but no system to it that I have seen.

Ok. What am I missing?
14lb on the torque wrench yeah?
The bolts are hardly tight? Is that right?
I have a spare motor here and tried an old bolt in that and snapped the head clean off again.
This bike is the first time I have used a torque wrench so am a bit confused.

What brand of wrench are you using, maybe a pic of the scale it might be calibrated in Ton/cubits.

The brand is Borrowed from Josh.
The scale is foot pounds.
Set to 14 and the bolts are hardly tight.
I know it is not set to 14 in the photos

Thet're not a bad wrench those I wouldnt expect it to give bad settings. They are sold under many different brands but they usually give good service.
Did both bolts break part way down the thread because that isn't a usual place to snap a bolt. More often than not they snap right under the head.

both bolts broke in the same spot. About 5mm down the shaft.

I was giving it a fair bit of pressure both times.
First time I tried too hard as I was not aware of the 'click' of the wrench when the correct torque was reached.
The second time I tried to break the bolt just to see how tight it has to go.
Before the 2nd bolt broke it was not actually as tight as many of the other bolts on the bike. Guess being 7mm they are fairly fragile.

So, if I go to 14lb and stop it there, even if it does not feel that tight and stick a bit of loctite on it they should be ok?
How much pressure is 14ft/lb? seems piss weak to me.
Thanks for the help Rick.

dang ..thats pretty odd rossco .....hope it comes together ol mate ..

I think if you are getting 14# that's pretty good, they only go into the aluminum "flywheel", think about the other bolts on the bike many of them call for less than the 14#.

Oooh that's annoying Rossco, words like truck and trucker would emanate from my mouth also

Have you run tap into the hole to clean it after the first bolt broke? 14lbs/ft is not a lot of torque - go get a new/different batch of bolts and clean the threads is my advice.

88KE

Ok. Thanks guys. Think I am now on the right track. As the clutch has 'stretch' bolts, I assumed they needed to be tightened beyond the point of breakage.
14 lb is not a lot. I read up on torque wrenches.
One foot bar with fourteen pounds hanging off it.
I will Loctite them and go to 14 lb.
Thanks again.
rossco
The thread was good. The easy out did not go outside the bolt and the new bolts i had went in smooth

So you pulled your bike apart again to fix something that didn't need fixing, but you didn't know that till you pulled it apart.
So you start to get it back together to the point you can start it up again.
If after 10 minutes of trying, looking at the fuel return in the tank, checking fuses, connections etc you still can't start it, take a step back and see if you can find the reason.



thank God it's Friday. Did someone say beer o'clock?

Edit.. That scratch is there for RT. Don't even need a back wheel on it to scratch the new paint

If n yo plug it in it works betta

Okay, if anyone wants me over the next week, just look for the guy hunting for a miracle.
That is what I will need to be ready in 5 weeks.

The bike is back together again. Had the gearbox and clutch off looking for the mysterious vibration.
It is the alternator.
Stuck the toolbox stethescope on it and it is rattling like a 2 year olds toy.
I will pull it off to check the rubber nuts are ok.
Failing that is there a rebuild kit for them or is it a new/ reconditioned one?

Lastly, I cannot get brake pressure on the rear brake. One seal was torn so got the kit, but I still can't get pressure. In 1st gear the motor is stronger than the brake.
Pads are ok, but not new so I will try new pads tomorrow.

rossco wrote:Okay, if anyone wants me over the next week, just look for the guy hunting for a miracle.
That is what I will need to be ready in 5 weeks.

The bike is back together again. Had the gearbox and clutch off looking for the mysterious vibration.
It is the alternator.
Stuck the toolbox stethescope on it and it is rattling like a 2 year olds toy.
I will pull it off to check the rubber nuts are ok.
Failing that is there a rebuild kit for them or is it a new/ reconditioned one?

Lastly, I cannot get brake pressure on the rear brake. One seal was torn so got the kit, but I still can't get pressure. In 1st gear the motor is stronger than the brake.
Pads are ok, but not new so I will try new pads tomorrow.

The K100 series are known for their difficulty to get the brakes to bleed effectively.

If you have access to a "power bleed" kit, which uses compressor fed air, that's the best way by far. If you're got to do it manually, it's going to take ages.

By comparison, my ute brakes take 20 minutes from empty to fully bled, whereas the front brakes on my K100TIC take the same time!