Hello guys!!!my name is George and i am from Greece. I just bought a K100 16V that was sitting for 5 years. condition as new with 38000 klm. I am afraid that if i try to start it i might have a problem . What should i do before the first ignition?

George, try simplest and cheapest way. Change all oil (engine, transmission and fork oil) change filters (oil, fuel, air) change spark plugs, change (better) or check the tyres, and start the engine. Drive it carrefuly few hundred kms, and then change the engine oil and filter again. If you lucky it will be enough. If not send a new post.

Regards

Hello George and welcome
I would be buying a brand new battery before trying to start her up, you really need full power through the starter.
Put the bike up on the centre stand, take all of the spark plugs out (make sure you not how the ignition leads are
placed in sequence. Don't get them mixed up). Now rotate the back wheel by hand with the bike still in gear, that will tell you if everything inside the engine is moving freely. Clean and replace the plugs in the engine.
Replace all the oils and start her up.
Sounds like you have a nice machine.
Cheers RT

welcome george

in addition to the above posts ....please ...please remove the old fuel from the tank ....take out the fuel pump and inspect the rubber damper - suspension device . clean the tank thoroughly and replace the fuel filter .

also inspect the fuel line rubbers in the tank ....as we have seen many times that rotten fuel will destroy fuel pumps not to mention all the rubish floating around in there from old deteriorating rubber parts , just waiting to be picked up and kill the pump

can you give me information about the oils i should buy and the sparkplugs?i am triyng to download the service and repair manual and i cant find it anywere

Hi there, it will also be good to take out the injectors and send them to a shop for a cleaning and refurbishing.
Best regards
JAP

hks300 wrote:can you give me information about the oils i should buy and the sparkplugs?i am triyng to download the service and repair manual and i cant find it anywere

Get onto Crazy Frog aka Bert and get a password for the download page. There you will find a myriad info along with all manuals that are available in pdf format.

i think most of us use ngk d7ea spark plugs these days ....you will need to find the bobbins ontop of the threaded sections though ....especially if not removeable from your old plugs

got my first pics so today probably i'll post them!!!i started looking for what i am going to need for the service

hks 300,Congratulations. I have just finished similar "rehab" on K100 that sat for at least 5 years with a full tank of gas, less miles. Best bet is to pull the tank and drain. Remove the fuel pump, basket and damper collar and the fuel filter. (Pay attention to wire leads on pump) Replace all with new,(check your date of manufacture as they changed pumps mid '85) and like posted earlier, check the internal fuel lines. I was able to reuse mine, better than what shipped with the new kit. Clean, clean and clean the tank. Use denatured alcohol or paint cleaner. Allow to dry thoroughly. I drained all oils (crankcase oil is 20W50) and replaced. I chose to use old plugs that I cleaned, I knew I would foul them first few starts. Then installed new. (It is hard to find the bobbins for the connections, so check for Bosch XR7LDC, also NGK brands the champion plugs in the U.S.) I added a fuel injection cleaner to the fuel for the first tank. It takes a little time to do all above, may 6-8 hours, be patient. It was hard to start the first time, about 15 minutes, choke off, then ran rough for another 10, lots of smoke in exhaust. Try not to rev too high, have to allow the motor oil to relube. Recheck oil level in sight glass. Mine has started each time now.....hope it continues.

Hi,

I had a similar case - my '89 K 100 LT bike was out of action for a few years. Beside fuel pump which i had to replace (destroyed by the pieces of rubber from vibration damper, that disintegrated in fuel), rear shock absorber started to leak immediately when I first time drove the bike after this long pause - and ventilator fan refuses to turn. Also contacts on indicators, lights, horn switches demanded thoorough cleaning...

Cheers
Tarik
Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

kfilipow wrote: Then installed new. (It is hard to find the bobbins for the connections, so check for Bosch XR7LDC, also NGK brands the champion plugs in the U.S.)

Correct Bosch plugs for the 2V is X5DC, if it got genuine HT leads with resistor caps, resistor plugs is used on the 4V (which don`t have resistor caps).

Check post 25 in this thread

Anybody knows how to check if HT leads on 8 V were resistive? Any mark on it?

In the cap it`s a 5K ohm resistor, and at the connector in the coil end it`s a 1K resistor.

Inge, I think I have resistor plugs and resistor HT leads in this moment. Possible damage in electrical system?

No, but both your ignition system and your engine would be more happy to work with the resistance which it`s designed for.

You would be closer to the danger zone the other way around, 0 ohms.....
......or no spark plugs connected.

Both could possibly damage the output transistors in the ignition ECU.

Inge K. wrote:No, but both your ignition system and your engine would be more happy to work with the resistance which it`s designed for.

You would be closer to the danger zone the other way around, 0 ohms.....
......or no spark plugs connected.

Both could possibly damage the output transistors in the ignition ECU.

Thanks Inge

Hi there, I think that the system would try to keep the voltage constant, so increasing the resistance decreases intensity, which means a weak spark, a less efficient combustion and less power.
Best regards
JAP

Hey guys!!!!after one year of running and moving in Germany with a new job new house new life I am going to start working on my bike again!since last year it stayed in Greece and I am planning to work on it on my vacation. I just wanted to say again a hello and ask a question, if I buy new battery, spark plags and fill the bike with new oils, and then after my vacation the bike will stay put for a year until i bring it to germany, next year i will also have to do the same process all over again?

When you lay it up after the vacation use some fuel stabilizer and change the oil and filter before you lay it up.
As for the battery if you can leave it with someone you trust to do it right just give it a short low charge each month and it should last for another year at least. You can get the smart charger that you leave on all the time and it will give it charges as it needs and even gives discharges sometimes to make a realistic op cycle but they will cost as much as a good battery.

The big thing seems to be the petrol and the petrol tank. It is very frustrating but there is little choice. The advice about the fuel stabiliser is good. Enjoy the k and hope it will work out for you.

92KK

here is a pic of my baby

Nice bike Hks.
If I am not mistaken that looks like a very rare K100/2

What is the vin on the bike?

Is that the 16v? Looks like an 8v head to me.
Someone will correct me.

Yep, 8v head and 8v pipe

Al

hks300 wrote:

my mistake guys, what's the difference with the k100/2?

 I think that you may find that's a market-specific thing. A bit like a K100 "Basic" and a K75T - both are model designations applied by an importer and not found outside their markets.

If your bike is not a /2 then someone has done a great job to make it look like one.
Low seat, black wheels, headlight surround, black engine. And chrome handle bars and the spring wrapped front brake lines.
Only difference I can see is the bike is black and the heat shield is not chromed.

Do a search here for the forum member Basic2 and check out his bike.

 
 

This is a photo of Basic2's bike.

rossko wrote:If your bike is not a /2 then someone has done a great job to make it look like one.
Low seat, black wheels, headlight surround, black engine.
Only difference I can see is the bike is black and the heat shield is not chromed.

Do a search here for the forum member Basic2 and check out his bike.

 
 

The photo is not great, but that is my bike k100/2

 I am waiting for the pic Rossko~ btw i didnt understand the difference, it something on the appearence?themotor?the value?

rossko wrote:If your bike is not a /2 then someone has done a great job to make it look like one.
Low seat, black wheels, headlight surround, black engine. And chrome handle bars and the spring wrapped front brake lines.
Only difference I can see is the bike is black and the heat shield is not chromed.

Do a search here for the forum member Basic2 and check out his bike.

 
 

This is a photo of Basic2's bike.

 This is a K100

Compare the headlight surround, the radiator shrouds, the seat.  The K100/2 (the red bike and your bike) are different in these details to this earlier model. Both are 8 valve, there was no 16v naked unless you built one yourself.

Al

Hi George,
Welcome & congratulations on your find.
It certainly looks like a Basic/2.
Does the frame number end in "CJ"?
Good luck with the restoration.

Zononfeil (sic) has a K11 that he did in Basic/2 and it looks realy tops. There is a pic of it here somewhere but I cant find it. He is also one of the team at flying brick site www.flyingbrick.de I think thats right.

Welcome to the site George

Thank you again for the welcome guys!!!!! Bacic2 I am in love with your bike!!!She looks like new!!!! I know that it was bought 1st hand, and the guy who had it is a member of the family and didnt do anything except the seat who putted a lower one. Utherwise I see a lot of similarities but also a lot of diferences

Hei guys I just got the vin and I found on the net the following. From what i read here is that it should be /2, am I right? But mine is black and I am pretty sure that it is not painted

[b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"]Modell[/b]	K100/2
[b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"]Baureihe[/b]	K55
[b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"]Karosserie[/b]	Motorrad

 

[b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"]Motor:[/b]	4-ZYL - 1,00l (66kW)
[b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"]Getriebe:[/b]	manuell
[b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"]Außenfarbe:[/b]	MARRAKESCHROT ZIERL --/ (643)

Looks like a basic to me then.
Take care of it. They only made 1300 ish for the whole planet.

I agree with Charlie 99.

but I might do a little less, before attempting a start:
 I would remove and empty the tank.
If by some miracle the rubber pieces inside (especially around the fuel pump) are not all melted from the fuel (unlikely)......do whatever's needed to get the tank clean, then put a couple of quarts of fresh fuel in it.
If needed replace the rubber parts and see the articles in the forum on how to repair your pump.
Read all those carefully, there is one VERY good post about the steps to disassemble & reassemble the pump.
It's tricky but it can be done with some care.
 Install a new battery.
Disconnect the small wires from the ignition coils & try spinning the starter for 20 seconds or so to make some oil circulation. Listen for fuel pump to spin up for 1 1/2 seconds after you touch the green starter button.
 If you get that far, connect the coils & see if it'll start up.

You can change all those fluids & parts after you get some kind of evaluation of what you have.

It appears my bike was an unusual case. Although the tank inside was all deteriorated, It started up normally after the tank and pump were changed....the injectors worked fine as found.

Regards, Ibjman

It looks like the basic/2 comes with a K75 tank and a R100 Mystic headlamp. Does this make them a parts bin special???

Actually the Mystic had the Basic headlight, the Mystics were early ti mid 90s.

This it a picture from the day before she falls asleep in the garage:D

Rick HKS300 I sure do like the look of the 75 seat and tank on the 100, that headlight would have sold well when the first models came out with the plastic cowl

Hey again everybody, I wanted to ask , isnt it better to try fire it up the first time with the cables connected in my cars battery?It wont have more power?

Should be OK but make sure the car electronics won't be damaged from spikes.