BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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TSBT

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Last summer I made a trip to Woodstock NY and I noticed a bit of oil around that overflow hole? Dont' know the term, on my 92 K100RS. Anyway a mechanic down there told me it's something to keep an eye on, this year it seems to have more fluid/oil than last. Apparently it's a pain in the keester to replace the seals around this part of the engine, but I'm not sure. This is right at the very bottom of the engine. Took a photo below. I've never seen a puddle of oil underneath my bike but perhaps if it continues I will? Hope not. Thoughts? Ideas? Anecdotes? relief? Let me know what you think. Cheers c.

Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo_12



Last edited by TSBT on Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:39 pm; edited 1 time in total


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charlie99

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just did mine

oops gearbox issue please forget what i posted

but a pull apart seems in order ...some folks can smell the difference from gear oil and engine oil smell


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
1987 k100rs ########   "Red"  - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637   "Black Betty"  (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )
    

Two Wheels Better

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The final drive, swingarm and gearbox will have to be separated from the engine to determine the cause of the seepage. There are very many posts here on how to best accomplish that task. I just did it a few weeks ago. Have a gearbox input shaft seal, a rear main seal, a flywheel glandnut O-ring and an alternator drive output shaft seal, as well as several hours of time at hand. You won't know until you're there. My leak was impossible to determine from scent alone. It looked like a fine, grey slime that eventually covered the bottom of the motor and started down the centre stand. It was the rear main seal. It had been 'seeping' for two years before I decided to have a crack at it. It's a good time, once in there, to clean, inspect and re-lube the clutch/input shaft, output shaft and final drive splines as well.

You might also have an output shaft seal to hand as well if you're in there and it's leaking - hard to determine from the outside but if the back of the gearbox is wet at all then now's the time. An O-ring for the gear indicator switch is an easy change out too. It's right at the back.


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"A long ride is the answer to a question you will soon forget!" ~ Anonymous
1977 R75/7-100, '93 K11/K12 Big Block, '93 K1100RS, '95 R100 Mystic, '96 K1100RS, 2 x '98 K1200RS, '06 K1200R & '09 K1300GT
    

charlie99

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on the list gith

good advice


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
1987 k100rs ########   "Red"  - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637   "Black Betty"  (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )
    

5Back to top Go down   Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Empty Serious business Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:34 pm

TSBT

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Thanks Charlie, thanks GITH. Sounds like a major, but could be rewarding. And fun if I can gather the patience. GITH, it'll probably take me two weeks on and off, you say three several hours, but usually the first time I do something I'm super cautious and slow. You sound like a K veteran. Maybe it can wait till fall when I park it. Sigh. Or a sh*tty weather week this summer. I'll dig around in the other posts for the exact task. Any special things/tools I need for such a job other than what you mentioned? Can I keep the bike on the center stand? Maybe I'm best to dig the other posts for that. Anyway thanks, I appreciate both of your experience and insights.

Cheers!


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Chris
    

club_c

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You might want to look at the clutch pivot arm boot. Those can also weep when they're on the way out and give you a mess like that. And ya, GITH might know a bit about K's...Rolling Eyes


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"There's never enough time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over."

1988 K100RS SE VIN 01477554
    

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Have a look underneath and notice what the centre stand is bolted to. That will answer your question straight away. I used a sawhorse of the appropriate height and supported the subframe of the bike that way. Remove the seat, sidepanels, rear cowl and taillight assembly, then the ECU, battery, coolant tank, foot controls, footpegs and brackets, rear brake master cylinder and caliper, exhaust system, and perhaps the starter motor and alternator for easy access.

You'll need a 30mm socket and extensions, a torque wrench and breaker bar, and to remove the flywheel you'll have to fabricate a short metal bracket to stop the flywheel from turning, unless you have an air wrench...but even then. It ain't terribly difficult a job, just time-consuming. I took a day and half over a long weekend because I was not fully prepared.

It was easy 'cept for crawling round on yer knees. A work stand and a chainfall would be ideal.

Search the forum's listings for something like "Spline lube and seal leaking" for a short pictorial. There are other, more clear versions of how it's done on here as well.


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"A long ride is the answer to a question you will soon forget!" ~ Anonymous
1977 R75/7-100, '93 K11/K12 Big Block, '93 K1100RS, '95 R100 Mystic, '96 K1100RS, 2 x '98 K1200RS, '06 K1200R & '09 K1300GT
    

TSBT

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Very helpful, very descriptive thanks a bunch. I'll dig the forums for the pictorials, sounds like a really rewarding project.

Cheers
c


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TSBT

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Just read the thread...I like that after doing all that, you cut down on vibration, foggy mirrors, and it was a smooooth new K. Now you've got me really stoked about this venture bounce thanks Gith.

c


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Chris
    

Two Wheels Better

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TSBT wrote:Thanks Charlie, thanks GITH. You sound like a K veteran. I appreciate both of your experience and insights. Cheers!

Thanks yourself, mate, but there are many on here with far more useful working knowledge and experience than me on the Mighty K. Have a good look through the service and repair posts and you'll stumble upon a treasure trove of useful hints and tips. Cheers.


__________________________________________________
"A long ride is the answer to a question you will soon forget!" ~ Anonymous
1977 R75/7-100, '93 K11/K12 Big Block, '93 K1100RS, '95 R100 Mystic, '96 K1100RS, 2 x '98 K1200RS, '06 K1200R & '09 K1300GT
    

captaink

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Looks like mine Smile - In your picture I notice the wet oil between the sump fins, its fresh, you may have a leaking sump plate seal or damaged fins. As you ride the oil goes backwards towards the rear wheel.


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1989 k 100rs
    

Crazy Frog

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On my very first web page about the K100 you can see few pictures of the procedure to access the main rear engine seal.

CF


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Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Frog15Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Logo2101986 k75, 1985 K100rt, 1985 K100rt/EML GT2 sidecar, 1999 K1200lt/Hannigan Astro Sport sidecar.
    

TSBT

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Thanks again GITH I'll dig around, appreciate it.

Captaink you raise a good point, how can I know for sure, newbie question, should I spray degreaser on there and wait to see where it comes from? Last year a mechanic said I would need to change my clutch seal, assuming he meant O-ring. unless I damaged my fin somewhere in-between.

Planning to start the project soon, guess the other way to find out it to start stripping it apart scratch bounce kind of excited to get started but afraid of what I'll find. Or....the alternative, wait till the end of summer and risk contaminating oil and grinding splines :pirat:

Also Thanks Crazy Frog, going through your link now.

Ts


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captaink

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I'm still new to this too!! Rolling Eyes I cleaned the whole area underneath and cleaned around that hole. This bit is the hard bit.....leave the bike for a couple of days to see where it drips. Bike was on main stand with a block of wood wedged under front wheel, this leans the bike back allowing any oil to drip out of hole if there is a leak. It's also best to run the engine, to warm the oil. It might not take that long but I needed to be sure. Mine does have damaged fins, the actual fin is spliting right at the leading edge next to the oil drain hole. I'm doing mine and the main seal later this year Shocked .

I think the damage happens when its supported underneath when working on engine. :suspect:


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TSBT

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I'm all gung-ho to get started but did what you suggested tonight Captaink with the 2x4 to let it sit while I prepare the 'patient's operating room' aka the shed, so I can work on it. Here's a few more snaps of the culprit, the second last one I took after spraying with brake cleaner, fins look okay. And yes i over-killed and posted a pile of shots

Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo810 Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo610 Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo510 Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo210 Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo310

[url=https://servimg.com/view/17422883/9]Nightmare leak near the brick? Hope this isn't an overhaul. Photo410

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Last edited by TSBT on Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:44 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added pics)


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