The oil drain plug is realy stuck. The metal of the plug is so soft that the 8 m hex just moves around in the plug. Now I changed the oil personally last fall, so I know that it was not excessively torqued.

Any ideas or comments? The only way I see now is takig the old plug out with vice grips or channellocks and fit a new plug.

Use a center punch at the outer edge of the plug.

Thanks Inge,

You are on the spot as usual. One question, though: Is this a common problem and is there a solution?

I would expect galling on stainless to stainless fasteners, but not on what I believe is alu to alu?

i think it has become common practice to whack the head of the bolt with a suitable device before attempting to remove it,,,it seems to break the tight junction between the threads of the bolt and threaded socket sections ...well thats what i tell myself ..but it seems to work for me ,,

else as inge says ...get something in the head of the bolt section that has more torque effect to spin that fastener ...replacing a bolt with a burr on the outer circumference is always better than drilling it out ..

some ...or most of us use anti sieze products when rebuilding

Agerbundsen wrote:Thanks Inge,

You are on the spot as usual. One question, though: Is this a common problem and is there a solution?

Sometimes you wonder if they are glued, on the real stubborn ones I`m using a long lever, instead of a ratchet.
What`s important is to use a high quality allen bit and be shure that you got a tight fit, clean out the crud in the hole and be shure that the bit reach all the way to the bottom.

Agerbundsen wrote:I would expect galling on stainless to stainless fasteners, but not on what I believe is alu to alu?

It might seem like the drain plug is rather soft, but it`s not made of alu.

weld an old hexagon wrench and untight it. be careful not to melt the aluminium

I made a cut deep 1,5 mm through whole diameter with angle grinder. Than put a stronger screwdriver in it and hit with hammer in direction right left. It unscrew easy.

Be careful with grinder.

Regards

Hi there
You can remove the oil pan and take it to a workshop, could be safer.
Best regards
JAP

As this is my first input to the forum, lets hope it's correct !. the drain plug on my 1987 k100 rt has a square recess, not a hexagon. i only discovered this myself when the allen key would'nt fit and i crawled underneath and viewed it. I fashioned a key from a piece of square bar, ground to fit.

sven k100 wrote:As this is my first input to the forum, lets hope it's correct !. the drain plug on my 1987 k100 rt has a square recess, not a hexagon. i only discovered this myself when the allen key would'nt fit and i crawled underneath and viewed it. I fashioned a key from a piece of square bar, ground to fit.

A square key may be better, but there is no doubt, the K100RS 1992 has an 8 mm hex.

sven k100 wrote:the drain plug on my 1987 k100 rt has a square recess, not a hexagon.

Then you got a non genuine drain plug.

I came across one of those square recess plugs here a few years ago and it was 3/8in to take a square drive socket wrench. At the time I thought what a good way to go.

Yeah a good idea I reckon, but the shame, when your bike's on its side after the centrestand has collapsed in the shopping mall carpark, and some wanker on a new RS1200 says, Oh look , a non standard drain plug. I hate the thought.
RT

good one rt ....cheers mate

RT wrote:Yeah a good idea I reckon, but the shame, when your bike's on its side after the centrestand has collapsed in the shopping mall carpark, and some wanker on a new RS1200 says, Oh look , a non standard drain plug. I hate the thought.
RT

Hell, he would not see it for the bottom fairing, so there:lol!: