K75cster wrote:Happy Birthdays 88, I bet the flip side of having a 75 F/D came as a bit of a surprise?? The remarkable ability to just release the clutch and be at walking pace, without having to feather the clutch, really fun.

True enough Keith. Gets up and goes to! I'm in no rush to change it back.!!

I bit the bullet and bought a wrap kit for the bike (6 metres of vinyl, tools and primer came in at under €100), Matte Gold is the nearest to the bikes bronze colour and I got some carbon fibre effect for the detailing.


I started with the pannier lids ( I recently fitted Krauser K2's) thinking they were easiest and to get the feel of the material. I will redo them at the end.


here's some pics of the work in progress. The weather was so good I put the back end on for a ride today. 






A fewstretch marks on the tight corners and if you stretch too far you can tear it.







I thought Gold on gold was too much so I repainted the badge black.



Black carbon on the grabhandle plates works well too....

super work there will

keep at it .... looks great

Looks good Will,

...........You've got me thinking now. Hmm, now where could I use some of that? 

Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:Looks good Will,

...........You've got me thinking now. Hmm, now where could I use some of that? 

Paul.

Some brilliant white for the sidecar??? Bling bling!

Actually, Will, I've got three fibreglass 'stars' on the sidecar that may be hidden with some wrap.

Cheers,
Paul.

My K1100 Centre stand snapped (Left leg) and the bike went over...




No real damage to the Bike. 

Looking at the stand it appears there is a weathered crack (facing the foot lever ) which looks as if it has been there for some time together with some flaking rust in the inner tube. The rest is a clean break and the metal is good. Maybe it was the cold yesterday (3c with a good wind chill factor after dark. )

I'm thinking the clean break will take a weld if I can find a good fit for an inner steel tube to line it.

Any thought's?

That's actually a common problem with the mainstand tang on the California series of Moto Guzzis. The trick is to find a piece of tube with the same wall thickness as the sidestand and an O/D that means you have to tap with a hammer to get the slug inside the sidestand. Clean the crud out of the sidestand (a bit obvious that!) and face the two pieces off as flat as possible with a file, then file round both broken ends so that they form a V-shape when placed together. I tend to butt the two halves together so that I can just see the slug; a good weld will then marry all three pieces of steel together and the tight fit of the slug will take up any side flex.

(Usual H&S crap statement goes here, [sigh]).

Dang I said said side stand Dai, I meant Centre stand (now edited the post) but I'm sure the same principles apply.

I have often looked at that area and wondered and now I know the answer. I will have mine off soon so shall do some preventative maintenance.

88KE wrote:Dang I said said side stand Dai, I meant Centre stand (now edited the post) but I'm sure the same principles apply.

Actually the centre stand may be easier to repair. The one time I had a Guzzi mainstand break I put a piece of tube over the outside where the ID was a few thou smaller than the OD of the original tube. That way the two broken halves maintained the OEM height and I had two welds for strength (top and bottom of the outside tube). You could fit an inside slug but why make the job harder?

OTOH if the break is just below the crossbar then you may have no room for an outside tube.

RicK G wrote:I have often looked at that area and wondered and now I know the answer. I will have mine off soon so shall do some preventative maintenance.

There a fair bit of rust flaking on the inner tube Rick. Yours might not be as bad due to the dryer climate if I succeed in finding suitable bar I will be giving the innards of the legs a good treatment of Waxoil before remounting.

I have been thinking of making a bigger foot for the right side as mine has gone over twice lately on soft surfaces.

shame about the break 88, been there myself , not nice . good to hear you getting into the repair mode. 
sounds like Dai is close to the mark. 
looking back on the resto , I quite like the Carbon trim to the ducktail, well done. those stretchy films are not always forgiving when applying to surfaces.

dang  that's a bugga Will

I had thought we were getting away from the perilous rust in the centre stand by doing the conversion to the 1100 type stand

seems not

good luck with the repair

fingers crossed for you

Another pic of the break in daylight, it's right behind the rubber stop.....


Just wondering if the constant bang off the stop is a factor or perhaps a bit of chaffing on the rubber predisposed it to fatigue there?

Just wondering if the constant bang off the stop is a factor or perhaps a bit of chaffing on the rubber predisposed it to fatigue there?

I ride 2 up 95% of the time and I broke mine and wondered that too but one of the things that came to mind is going too fast around the corners at high speed, leaning too low and hearing scraping noises. I am sure it was the main stand. Coincindence probably but we did some lovely 7000 - 8500 rpm + in 5th riding one weekend, I was feeling particularly sporty and really hammering it, the scraping noise happened about 10 times that trip (on left hand sweepers only, never on R/H corners). Next day the Main stand broke. I had the original one as a spare so I was OK for repairs and was actually freaked out a bit by the event because the bike fell over to the r/h side (saved by the car . . whew!!!) until I got on here and had a look and found that it is a common fault. But I am sure the scraping wasn't helping at all

I finally got around to repairing this. I gave up on finding a suitable bit of heavy walled tube around mine and other workshops so I bought a bit of bar at a local engineering place and set to with the hot metal glue gun...



The discolouration is where I heated the whole piece to burn off the rust inside the tube and temper/de-stress the break.

I used about 120 mm of bar which will add to the support in case my weld doesn't hold. The stand burned through in a few spots so I was glad of the solid bar as it allowed me to fill the gaps.

After a bit of cleaning up with the flap wheel....


after painting and refitting the bike was standing back square in the morning sun ...

That's a shade like last year......bike apart in the middle of the night and then an early morning photo of a K up on main stand ready for a trip to France.....

Tara Hill looking good......

Is that the later stand that isn't supposed to break, Will?  

Paul.

was wondering the same paul

but maybe not never breaks ....but less likely to break

sidecar paul wrote:Is that the later stand that isn't supposed to break, Will?  

Paul.

K1100 stand!

The bike has put a few thousand miles up since I last posted, I haven't finished vinyl wrapping the front end and the oil pressure switch has developed a leak. 

Having completed a house move I now have most of the bike stuff in one shed and am feeling motivated to get back on track. 

I had picked up a full exhaust system from a local breakers complete with a good heat shield for the price of a heat shield (he admitted he'd never sold one k bike exhaust ! ) 

So cleaning this up will be my starting point to get on with the rolling resto. Progress won't be quick but will hopefully be steady.

these will take a lot of elbow grease...
 

onya Will

good luck with that cleanup ....try a flap wheel to get the crud off to start with ....the stainless resists a lot of work to it .....but go carefully mate

cheers !

I'm sorting a few things to get the bullion brick back on the road. it got parked up in early 2016 due to other projects and has sat patiently in a shed awaiting my retrun whilst also having a few parts pinched off it for other bikes (not the original intention but needs must and all).




It hasn't been all one way, I fitted a new k1100 centre and side stand and a clutch cable (hence the tank off) so mechanically it shouldn't take much more than a clutch switch and a battery to get it back on the road.

It will need a new battery and a front tyre so in anticipation I started renovating this front wheel, 


not bad for an otherwise quiet Sunday.

Charlie - when you did those wheel recently, how much of the old paint did you remove and how what sort of primer did you use?

hi Will
first off acetone to clean off the rubber on the tyre bead area inside the rim  ...makes it seal so much better and i guess centre when tyre fitting up time

a scotch bright run over the paint Will,  to remove any flakes or lumps that a light go over with wet and dry didnt get
followed by etch primer

good luck mate