Team, doing some work on the bike and am renewing the seal of the timing chain cover. This seal has changed and from the original seal now a seal with a PTFE lip is to be fitted. As this fitting will not be easy (against the lip) I did a bit of a search. Moto-Bins says to soak the seal in oil for two hours. The German Flyingbrick.de site is very clear that it is to be fitted dry and manufacturers info from Reinz that clearly advises a dry fit. SKF states it can be both, but if wet should be with specified grease. One wonders..... :pale:

Anyway, what did you do? Comments appreciated, meantime I'll try to get a response from Moto-Bins.

If I remember correct I think BMW states that all of the seals with PTFE lip should be mounted dry, ....and soaking in oil for some amount of time was valid on the older types of seals.

Memory isn`t what it used to be........the correct version would be could be mounted dry.

According to this service bulletin the seal would be seated in rapidly if mounted dry.

Great, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks Inge!

I came up with a dilemma installing the new type seal. CF has a comprehensive explanation of the new seals on one of his posts. Evidently there are 3 generations of seal now, the latest 2 being teflon. If I had known this when I removed the original(rubber) seal I might have been tempted to reuse it as it wasn't leaking. However I removed it and didn't get it right until the 2nd seal. The first one I didn't realize was different from the original and installed it according to the Clymers, Haynes and BMW manuals. ie. just push it on. Leaked like a sieve. The second one, I did it this way, and so far, after initial break in, it seems to be leak free.
1. Install the seal in the timing cover case.
2. Coat the mating surfaces of the timing cover and/or the engine with the sealant of your choice.
3. Mount it to the front of the engine using the 4 corner bolts so that it is suspended by the bolts but not tight to the engine, about 1/2 to 3/4 inches away from the engine.
4. Turn in the bolts until the seal is just touching the chamfer on the Hall sensor shaft.
5. GENTLY, use a pointed tool of your choice to push the seal up over the chamfer onto the shaft. Oil may make it slide easier.
6. Make sure seal all the way round is pointed in toward the engine.
7. Push cover the rest of the way onto the engine.
8. Torque cover to specs.
I'm still a noob when it comes to working on the K, after all, I never knew they existed until a friend let me ride his K75RS 3 years ago. The rest they say is history.
Anyway, I hope this helps in some way or at least points us all in the direction of doing it right.

Another metod is to be found on post #17 in this thread.

And related pictures on post #714 in this thread.

Thanks to Yankeeone, Oldgoat and Google search.

Inge K. wrote:Another metod is to be found on post #17 in this thread.

And related pictures on post #714 in this thread.

Thanks to Yankeeone, Oldgoat and Google search.

Inge,

When I redesigned the forum, it took me long time to put a thread #on each post. This was the primary reason of my quest. You are doing good use of this feature when quoting a post.

Excellent work done, Bert.

Before the redesigning, you did ask about members opinon/wishes.

This feature was one of mine posted wishes.
And when you`re being such a nice guy and fulfill my wishes
.........I certainly have to use it.
It`s real pleasure to have this possibility, did miss it earlier.

..........# on each single post.....you`re kiddin`.....that must have been a h... of a job.

Thanks Inge.

I guess everybody is happy with the design and it's mostly because people came with ideas and wishes. No one is perfect but many brains together bringing ideas leads to good results.
I also had a test site where the K100rt forum moderators were acting as Beta testers.
Yes it was a challenge.

Today I worked on my K75 (another challenge).
Since the fall it refused to start. As soon a I push the starter, 2 cylinders are flooding.
I replaced everything electronic + spark plugs, temp sensor,... name it.
I checked the injector and everything looks OK. After 2 days, I still have pressure on the fuel line which proves that the injectors are not leaking. the spray pattern looks perfect when tested outside the cylinders. I get a good ON/OFF sequence. I also removed the TPS.
It will start for a couple of weeks and then act up again.
Today it started on one cylinder and I decided to 'give it up' 1 cylinder a 3,000rpm, then the second one started to work (up to 5,000) then after another 15 seconds the third one quicked in and the engine reved at 8,000).
I am puzzled!
2 years ago, I had mice in my basement and I am really afraid that one was feeding on a wire on the bike.
They found the bags of bird seeds, and stocked them everywhere. Today I found some shells in a cardbox with 2 spare radiators. BUGGERS!
I love this bike as a summer one, and I am so proud of having a smooth powerful original engine with over 240k on.
And by the way, all connections where cleaned with Deoxit!

I will let you know if it's still running in a month...

I fit both the front timing seal and the rear main seal, new type with the lip, dry, contrary to the 'Bins suggestion, and both are leak-free to this day. I did slightly moisten the rear main seal where it contacts the 'flywheel' but it was only a smidge of clean oil to allow it to slide home easier. The Moto-Bins recommended two hours soaking in oil before installation seemed to me a bit odd. Hats off to the boys at the 'Bins for all their otherwise sage advice, great prices and availability!