Hey Guys,
First of you people are great. I've been trying to get as much knowledge and info as google will find. Thanks.

Here's my problem. First I'm no mechanic. But because I love Beemers (I had a new R100RT in 80) and my current resources are limited. I bought an old "Brick". When I bought it the engine turned over. I engaged the gears to see if it was seized, nope. I brought it home and first discovered a fuel tank with the "Pox", it looked like tiny little yellow red barnacles in the tank. The fuel pump wasn't running, replaced with Facet-Purolator. Replaced filter with Fram. I got the bike running for a couple of days. Then it just wouldn't fire. I tried starting it yesterday after removing the air filter, thinking it couldn't breath. I tried shooting some starting fluid in the breather box, it would pop, seemingly burning the ether, but wouldn't start. On the last try (obviously) the starter kept cranking even after I hit the kill switch and turned the key off; I had to unhook the battery to make it stop. I let the bike cool and the ether dry, applied the battery and it still wanted to crank.

The question is firstly, does anyone have any ideas why my starter won't turn off? I've seen posts on how to clean the starting switch module. Could that be it? I've seen posts that say the starter should be removed, cleaned and refurbished. Could that be my problem?

If anyone would like to take a shot at the no starting problem, I'd love to hear from you.

I'm not a mechanic, although I suppose I'll be one after restoring this bike. I've read alot of posts that talk about testing resistances on certain parts of the bike. I own a multi-meter but have never used it for testing resistances (I don't know how).

If you would like to be bored to death I started a blog to log my progress/problems and try to keep it updated, although not all the video is uploaded. It can be found on Blogger here:

http://1985k100rsre-build.blogspot.com/

Thanks for any help

Rick

Your starter relay contacts have been welded together, due to the starting attemps with a low voltage battery.

Not unusual (search the forum), try to give the relay a few taps with the rear end of a screwdriver.

If that doesn`t help the relay needs to be opened, contacts pryed and refurbished with some fine emery paper.
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Then, your other problem: does the fuel pump start, when you hit the starter button?

Hmmm, I'd said to my wife "It's like something has fused in the switch"


From the schematic it says it's number 11? This is found in the box underneath the tank, is it not?
Sorry for the unknowlegdeable questions, but I'm just starting this quest.
Thanks again Inge K

phoenixk2b wrote:From the schematic it says it's number 11? This is found in the box underneath the tank, is it not?

Yes, that is correct........BTW, welcome to the forum.

Yes, I replaced the fuel pump and I hear it running. I'm getting fuel to the rail.

Maybe I don't have enough amps in my battery to kick the bike over!

Hi There and welcome to the group,
I suggest you follow the troubleshooting flow chart that was contributed to by a number of forum members that should diagnose the problem for you.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Much good info on the page K-Bike suggests.....

phoenixk2b wrote:Maybe I don't have enough amps in my battery to kick the bike over!

If you have resolved your starter relay problem, it`s needed to charge your battery before new starting attempts, to avoid this problem one more time.

phoenixk2b wrote:Yes, I replaced the fuel pump and I hear it running. I'm getting fuel to the rail.

And does it leave the fuel rail? Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listen for a clicking sound at the injectors, while turning the starter
(yes, it can be difficult with a noisy starter in the background).

Thanks Inge K for the idea of the screw driver. I remember my Dad once using a wooden dowel for a stethescope. Of course, in this situation I didn't know what to listen for..

Inge K, I noticed you have a K100. I have a problem. I found one post that said, I thought, that the spark plug leads should be led and set in firing order. Which I thought was (from the front of the bike) 1-3-4-2, which I thought it said was the cylinder order. However, I just got the Clymer repair manual, which seems to say that the cylinder order is 1-2-3-4 from the front of the bike back. This actually works better because in the other configuration the 3 wire was too short. The Clymer manuals I've found to be a little confusing for me. This one is no exception as it's also giving instructions for the K75.

Also, the info I found online and the clymer manual also says that the coil set up is, the first coil, at the front of the bike is 1-4 with 1 being outboard and the 4 being inboard. The second coil is 2-3 with the 2 being outboard and 4 being inboard. The diagram in Clymer actually shows this set up from the bottom which I thought at first was from the top.

Which is the correct configuration?

Sorry to bother, but there is nothing like hearing from someone who knows.

Thanks

The cylinders is counted from front to rear, and the firing order is 1,3,4,2.

You are correct about the coils, 1.4 at front and 2.3 at rear.

About HT connection at each coil it don`t matter on which terminal of the two, as the terminals is connected at each end of the secondary windings, connect as what best suit the different HT cable lengths.

Also check that the connections to the primary windings is correct, black/blue wire to front coil, and black/red to rear coil.

Thanks Inge K. I found the relay where it was supposed to be. I tapped on it. But, I also removed it and checked. The contacts had parted but were a little black. I gave them a light sanding with #600 emery. I put the relay back in and hooked up the battery, the starter did not run until I used the key and starter button.

I got myself a new AGM battery 300 CCA 30 amp. It just fits in under the brain.

The bike is still not starting. I haven't had a chance to use the screwdriver stethescope. I'm hoping that I can find the correct run for the spark plug wires. I don't want to just sit and crank and run down the battery.

I just saw your post as I was writing this one.

I don't know what the term "HT" means

I do know that the connections to the primary windings are correct on the black/blue, black/red
Sorry to be dense.
So...
Spark plug wire #1 connects to cylinder 1- the first cylinder at the front of the bike-- It's other end attaches to first coil on the outside
Spark plug wire #2 connects to cylinder 2- the last cylinder at the rear of the bike-- It's other end attaches to the second coil on the outside
Spark plug wire #3 connects to cylinder 3- the cylinder next to 1 at the front of the bike-- It's other end attaches to the second coil on the inside
Spark plug wire #4 connects to cylinder 4- the next to last cylinder next to 2-- It's other end attaches to the first coil on the inside

Thanks for your continued assistance

You are confusing yourself. The firing order is not relevant to what you are doing.

Both cables for the first (no 1) and last cylinder (no 4) connect to the forward coil, the two for the middle cylinders (2 and 3 counted from the forward end) on the aft coil. Position on the coil is not relevant.

Conclude you have checked on the bases of Inge's info the the bottom connections on the coils are correct? The info (numbers/colours) is normally on the coils

Don't give up, you're almost there

That could be the first problem with the bike not starting now. I was using an internet post that seemed to say that the plugs were hooked up in firing order. That's why I wanted clarification. I really appreciate all your help.

As you can see I'm no mechanic. Perhaps anyone else would know what I didn't.

I'm new to the forum. It looks like I'm supposed to mark this post as solved.

Thanks to everyone who helped my in my dilemma.

If any one wants to follow the antics I started a blog to help me remember what I did and mostly where all the parts go!
http://1985k100rsre-build.blogspot.com/

phoenixk2b wrote:
I don't know what the term "HT" means

It's non-American English for 'High Tension' as in reference to ignition leads or 'cables'.

Glad you got it sorted.