problem solved!!!! update

I limped the bike to my mechanic today with a load of "spares" I'd purchased. Problem solved - injector no 4 was blocked. Upon closer inspection, the fuel rail was rusted inside.
The rail was cleaned up and for good measure the fuel lines and filter inside the tank replaced...(exterior ones done last year). I'd brought replacement injectors a few weeks ago, as mentioned eleswhere on the forum, ....f27 delphi Buick Ford Lincoln types with the same spray pattern. They cost £12.50 each off Ebay!!! here's the link, they post worldwide.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181072846468?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

All 4 were replacesd and the thottles balanced again.

Well I can honestly say the bike rides like new and like never before - no hesitation, repetition or deviation- Smiles all round and thanks to this forum and Phill at Allbikes.
I'm sure replacing the F1, battery and coils + cleanining the connections probably had some impact too - but the rusted fuel rail & blocked injector was the main culprit.
I was getting 40mpg, and will post improvements I'm sure will materialise.
   
Colin


Can someone please point me in the right direction???
I serviced the bike - swopped the silencer to a Motad and put on new studs.- injectors cleaned - ALL connections deoxited (except airbox)- has a new temp/fan switch and the TB's have been balanced.( there are no leaks here and the breather hose has been renewed)
I've always had a problem with cold starting (except in summer) - having to feed the throttle and rev. But since the silencer was swopped it ran rough - so i bought a new Fi for £130 (under the seat) - for 3 days it was up to 95% power and good - now its back to 80% and I have to keep revs up.
I do know the battery is not keeping its charge, and will buy a new one this week - but after reading various posts Im leaning towards the FPR or the airbox.
Has anyone else experienced these issues?? I get the impression she is runing rich from the plugs i changed. Yesterday I cleaned EVERY connection under the tank except the airbox.

Many thanks

Colin

Colin I wouldn't go hunting too much till you get a new battery because the ECUs (FI) can be very badly effected by low or high volts as many electrical things.
Have you checked the voltage at the battery when you are at 3000rpm. When batteries get really crook they can push the voltage high because they are not even accepting a charge.

Thanks  odessy battery arriving tomorrow- a month ago I had to swop a coil with a fleabay one- it's now showing similar symptoms- would it be likely my battery has cooked the coil ??

unlikely

Do nothing until you have the battery sorted, a bad battery causes a lot of problems.

Removed the Exide today.....there was no water covering the cells which proves I am a novice!!
Fitted the odessy (sealed thank God) - bike spluttered to life and sounded rough.
I checked all ht leads where clean and secure, and of course the efi under the seat
I then checked the plugs which were 3 weeks old - all fouled up black- plug 4 was also wet (as it was when last changed= faulty injector??)
The plugs were also not totally tight - so I cleaned them and refitted. Bike seemed to rev better but would not idle (never does cold). Didnt test ride as too cold...
My question is - what next? Replace the 3 week old plugs or just run it a bit ??
I put the Odessy on trickle charge - was reading 2 lights out of 3 on the bmw trickle charger
I'll try to post pics of the plugs next post
thanks for any help
Colin

plug 2

plug 4 - wet on top

plug 3

plug 1

By the look of the plugs I'd say you have a poor spark. You will probably need new plugs but don't fit them just yet. If you know how to use a multimeter you should measure the plug lead resistance and give them a wriggle to see if the resistance changes while you do that. 5000 ohms is good so is 6000 but 7000 is getting a bit on the far side.
Test the resistance of the coils the primaries should be 2.5 to 3 ohms and the secondaries 10 000 ohms + - 10% also check there is no ground/earth connection on the secondaries.

either poor spark or over fuelling

temp sensor reading at plug under seat ....pins 10 and 13 is worth a test ......

the temp sensor gets lower resistance at it heats up

typically cold over 2000  or 3000 ohms ....but at running temp nearer to 500 - 100 area

else fuel presure regulator ? 

 just some thoughts to add to the mix

When did you take the plugs out? After running rough and starting difficulties? If you want to have a real picture I would run her and make sure she's properly warmed up (at least 30 mins if not an hour, driving at revs that is, not idling) then switch the engine of and coast to a stop. Then check your spark plugs.

Cold starting could be an indication. Have a look at Bert's trouble shooting diagram. The bike takes the temperature sensor in the AMM and the TPS signal to adjust the fuel during starting and once the engine starts up (RPM above 750 IIRC) the normal signals take over (coolingwater temp and AMM signal). If you start the bike with closed throttle the TPS signal (the click  ) is used for a bit extra fuel for starting until she pick up to idle.

Do you use the "choke" for cold starting? When you're bike is properly adjusted for an idle of 950 with a warm bike most early bikes need a bit of choke (first click) for the first bit, depending on outside temperature. In Scotland I had to use it most of the times because it was .

I photo'd the plugs before starting, after cleaning the plugs I restarted with the same symptons. I always have to use choke when cold and feather the throtle or ride off keeps revs up - or she stalls.

2 years ago I replaced the temp sensor - bike idled ok cold, but over the last 3 months has become poor - one of the coils was bad and I replaced with a 2nd hand unit. My mechanic advised the new coil tested ok after road test. The bike rode better - and for a wee while after I replaced the under seat computer a lot better - now so bad I dont want to ride the bike. I've also tried swapping the ht leads to no effect.My mechanic recently reset the tps too.
Intended course of action via my mechanic who is ex bmw  ( I really need to learn how to use my multimeter!!)
Fit another set of 2nd hand coils which are on their way.
If not fixed - I will replace the injector rubbers (mechanic sprayed showing no leaks - but Im not convinced) - and at the same time will check fuel pressure and replace the fuel regulator, and check the airbox vane movement and clean its electrical connections. All fuel lines have been renewed recently + fuel filter. I also have some new injectors I could fit.
I will post results
thanks for your suggestions - Ive had great use from the bike, but with what I've spent could have bought a much newer bike. I feel as tho Ive come so far with replacement parts, it would be a shame to "give in" now. I wonder how many others feel the same way?
Colin
Colin

Colin could you put the model and year of your bike in the signature line please, it makes it easy for us answering as we dont have to refer to the top of the thread or futher back to find out.

With regard to the coils, fistly you need to be absolutely sure that is the problem before you spend and buying secondhand electrical gear is chancy.  Make sure you have the coils with the orange tower which is where the silicone boot goes when the lead is plugged in. The all grey earlier coils are a disaster and rarely are they any good.
If the running came good when you swapped the ECU then I would firstly be meticulously cleaning the contacts on the ECU and the plug because that is a common spot to have problems. The whole thing sounds electrical to me and the first thing is to be sure the connections are in good condition and with what you describe about it coming good after you work on it certainly would point me in the direction of a bad electrical connection which can and often is a very frustrating thing to find.

Yes = I think you are right.
I bought deoxit and as I said, have carefully cleaned all connections except the airbox
I'll re clean the computer connections! The replacement computer was brand new...
Yes the coils coming have the orange towers

new coils arrived today - will fit them on Sunday & post "results"

Is it best to clean the plug to the computer with a tooth brush ~& deoxit?

colin

Colin, I squash the end of a cotton bud in the vice (to make it thinner) and soak it in DeoxIT to clean the connectors.

Followed by a spray of DeoxIT shield.

Paul.

Good idea - I'll try that later today

I fitted the coils today & recleaned the computer plug - No change
Again, have to keep revs up till warmed up or she stalls - when I open the throttle theres loads of hesitation and then she "jumps".
difficult to accellerate over 70mph. Sounds like shes not running on all 4, but when i stop at the lights seems to rev ok stationery(if a little hesitant). Overall its like riding a poor 125 cc!
I'm going to ask my mechanic to do some fault finding as I'm useless with a multimeter.
Has anyone any ideas what I should ask him to check? I've a trip to France planned on the 23rd, and its looking unlikely at the moment.

thanks

Colin

problem solved!!!! update

I limped the bike to my mechanic today with a load of "spares" I'd purchased. Problem solved - injector no 4 was blocked. Upon closer inspection, the fuel rail was rusted inside.
The rail was cleaned up and for good measure the fuel lines and filter inside the tank replaced...(exterior ones done last year). I'd brought replacement injectors a few weeks ago, as mentioned eleswhere on the forum, ....f27 delphi Buick Ford Lincoln types with the same spray pattern. They cost £12.50 each off Ebay!!! here's the link, they post worldwide.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181072846468?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

All 4 were replacesd and the thottles balanced again.

Well I can honestly say the bike rides like new and like never before - no hesitation, repetition or deviation- Smiles all round and thanks to this forum and Phill at Allbikes.
I'm sure replacing the F1, battery and coils + cleanining the connections probably had some impact too - but the rusted fuel rail & blocked injector was the main culprit.
I was getting 40mpg, and will post improvements I'm sure will materialise.
   
Colin

at last !

good for you at sticking to it

some valuable things learned for sure .

cheers