Got the rear off the bike to do the output spline lube and taking the tranny off this morning.

I don't see it in Clymer, but does anyone here recommend the use of some 'gasket in a tube' product between bell housing and the gearbox to help keep out moisture, etc OR between the final drive and the swingarm?

Bike has behaved well so far, no frozen nuts (on the bike) or seized screws. Using anti-seize on all threads upon rebuild. Electrics all look good except for ground connection to battery which was quite corroded.

Bob

Nothing needed between the gearbox and engine just make sure the faces are clean but by the sounds of your posts I think that would happen as a matter of course.
The faces on the final drive just a smear of silicone or similar.

Hi there, as far as I know these are structural joints, metal surfaces need to be clean and undistorted, for a perfect contact and bearing stress transmission. So there can be no gaskets. The aligning dovels are critical to assure the alignment.
Best regards
JAP

All back together now, might be time to replace that battery, which started acting up after I put things back together. Hope it's merely coincidence and not 'operator error'.

Thanks for replies.

Bob

Took this image of the magnetic drain plug for the gearbox.

Does this seem like a lot of debris? Bike has 18500 miles. Last changed gearbox oil about 5000 miles ago.
Dunno. It just seemed like a lot of metal . . .

I would not be concerned about that unless you can feel any coarse particles or slivers of metal. The magnetic field will make the fine dust appear like that but I think you will find it is just very fine particles. The magnet is doing its job very well.
Clean it and replace the oil again after 1000miles and I reckon you will find it is quite good.

Those spikes are tiny slivers of metal, and yes, I'll grind a gear or two occasionally after the false-neutral downshift event. I'm hoping it's just a result of 'operator error' and not a larger unpreventable issue.

No noticeable diminishing of performance as far as I can tell--could this be part of the 'run-in' process?

I would now clean the magnet and change the oil and check it in 1000Miles and see how it is. I would not take any action immediately but if that amount of metal continues then I would certainly check it futher.
It could be part of the "run in" process but I would not expect there to be that much after 5000 miles and at least two changes of oil.

OK, Rick. I'll check it again in a while and see what it looks like. To be fair, there was a lot of powdery mush on the magnet, but some slivers, as well.

We have had some spell of very warm weather (to counterbalance the cold wet winter in Europe) so it shouldn't be too tough to get some more miles in soon. Still would be running the snowblower in a normal winter, but the leaves are starting to pop out on some trees now--amazing, in a good way!