sweet ...!

chalk and mrs marshall ....oops colgate !!!

Halo i am shocked!
You guys on this site are really going OCD on this stuff. I guess if i ever do the resto blog im gonna call it.. A bucket of suds and a big brush!
I mean looking over this makes me ill! Ok jealous a wee bit, if mine had that detail,

Ok its fabulous.. Seeing this is just over the top.


Great stuff halo

Oh yeh, keep going..

Thanks CommanderKewl yes it is getting over the top but thats what happens when you have a recipe and you keep refining it.

Starting on the back fairing and she has seen better days with an epic get off coupled with a poor patch up job well it's all goto come off.









Blakey is a legend awhile ago I bought a rear lens off him and it's all ready giving me a warm fuzzy feeling about this part of the rebuild as it is A1 condition, thanks Blakey



The repair starts I found a small chisle worked best to remove the crud





Halo

Good luck with the tailpiece repair, Halo! It's a bit of a different challenge to the cleaning, painting and polishing, but I'm looking forward to the results of your efforts.

Used to work abit on fibre glass ultralights along time ago hoping that experience pays off tintock but you are right this ones fairly average to say the least.
Halo

You all know I like to try to complete the resto processes myself so after Old Goats link to Eastwoods Automotive product in the states a few months ago I have been looking for a large industrial oven on the cheap for powder coating. Just brought this in Melbourne its 670(D) x 740(W) x 1350mm(H) inside.



Also ordered this from Eastwoods



So it's abit late for most of the bike bits but I figure when the kit arrives I will powder coat the wheels and do a writeup.

Halo

Holy snappin Halo.
That is a commitment right there.
I can see a book coming out of this resto.

"How God would do it"
A restoration guide by Halo

Keep going mate. I cannot wait to see the pictures from this exercise

Thanks Rossco interested to see how the process turns out so then I could do some for others every now and then on the forum

Halo

Does Halo really stand for high altitude low oxygen, or describe the shiny thing around your head?
Can you let me know when you're going to be on any of the rides please? ( S\o I can hide my bike in my shed)
Great work really. Really good and it's always good to see someone doing it themselves and properly.

You certainly don't do things by half, mate, that's for sure! Looking forward to reading about your progress.

HRS

(Halo's Restoration Services)

Opening soon in victoria
have your bike restored to better than when it left the factory
Media Blasting Painting Powder Coating Mechanical Fiberglass Repairs Upholstery


discounts for forum members i hope

I like the look of that powdercoating kit Halo. How many sheckles is one of them worth.

Just a bit of info on an oven, we have one at work that is basically a 4 burner bbq with a rhs frame clad in sheetmetal with a bbg hood thermostat on the door. It just sits on top of the bbq. Gets to 200 degrees C in about 15mins. Most powdercoat will cure at 180 degrees in 10 - 15 mins. Also if you go to your local powdercoaters they might sell you a 1 kg bucket of powder cheap. A 20 kg box costs us about $200.

I will take a pic of our setup at work and post up tomorrow.

Yes cheap rates for members at www.halorestorations.com.au
Good description there Col you should do resume's for a living. Great advice caferacer looking forward to the photos l recon that is a fatastic way to make a oven for powder coating, the kit cost $269 really cheap when you consider it was the top of the line kit.
Halo

Thats a really good price Halo, be interested to see how it performs. I use Killrust etch primer on uncoated parts at work prior to powdercoating. It helps the powder bond to the job your doing.

Here is a pic of our handsome looking oven.



This is inside the plates have been removed and a sheetmetal tray is inside, it helps to heat the oven more evenly.



This is the hanging racks at the top, just 10mm round steel bar. The whole thing is quite simple really. I've seen second hand bbq's going cheap in weekend shopper etc.But you could use a normal one and have a lift off top so you could get 2 uses out of it.



Hope this helps Halo.

Fantastic setup caferacer62, I think that would have to be the most cost effective yet innovative & efficient setups I have ever seen. Thanks for taking the time to shot some photos and share with us and the advice on the rustkill is great as well. I would not of thought of doing this with a BBQ but your setup looks really professional well done .

Halo

Shock came from TWB thanks for the fantastic shock TWB thinking I will powder coat the spring silver when the powder coating kit arrives.



Got the rear lower fairing rebuilt just need to sand and putty fill now.













Warmth at last for my little workshop if not too late for this year here. Even though the aircon/heater looks average to say the least I was able to get it serviced cheap yesterday (thanks Lucas) and with a little trick to increase the head pressure by restricting the condenser airflow I am now pumping out 38 deg C & the cooling goes went to 4 deg C with an ambient of 16 Deg C outside, not bad for $80 all up.





Halo

Great job on the lower rear fairing Halo!! Looks like the original factory mold. Will be working on my fairings this winter, it's almost here. Thanks for all the great ideas to dress up our Ks. keith

That bike is going to be an eye opener, and a fine example for all restorers once complete, Halo. Keep up the bike porn

Very smooth job, Halo. Keep up the good work!

Looking mighty fine there Halo, very professional looking work.

Keep us up to date how the powdercoater unit your getting goes, really keen to see how this pans out.

Just one more tip, if you are coating something cast or has a bit of mass about it or the ambient temp is a bit low put it the oven for 5 - 10 mins first to take the chill out of the metal. The powder will stick a lot better and will gloss up nicely.

Keep up the great work.

Well it's time for me but the upside is I am getting through the parts.

Lets play where does this go, because I can't remember and I'm not too proud to say it, I coulkd look for ever through the manuals or ask the forum blokes





And I know these connect to the fuel reg and switch on the TB's etc but cannot remember how



Halo

The FPR hose is connected to the FPR at top center stub and
the brass stub at #4 TB....and it should be a spring on the outside.
But it should be only one hose, not two...............

No idea about the seeger ring.....at the moment.

The only place I saw a clip like that was on the centre stand, but not sure if it was that large. Retaining clip for the bolt that it swings on.

rossco wrote:The only place I saw a clip like that was on the centre stand, .

The ones used on the centre stand is much smaller, 20 mm inside dia.

Nose ring from your prize bull?

Cant help out with the circlip but the round thing with Canon written on it goes on the front of your camera.

I don't ever remember seeing a circlip that size on a K.

rossco wrote:Nose ring from your prize bull?

No, it goes inside the engine on the output shaft. Oh NOOOOOO, the engine has to be put apart again.

Just joking! I don't have any idea where it goes.

At the bearing on the rear end of the intermediate shaft, 45,5 mm inside dia.

So CF is right ? You got to be kiding how could i have missed that it looks too dirty to come from there i will have to pull the whole engine down to check that.

Halo wrote:So CF is right ? Picture anyone ?

#12?

The picture shows a revised version used from 09/85, earlier versions is like yours.

You`re correct about #12, CF.

How could have i missed that you know how much i have to strip down to check that i think i will just go and get drunk now

Could be that you have to strip down a lot more, if you don`t check...............

Oh Halo. Still not sure if they are joking or not, but if not my heart goes out to you.
I think if it was me it would go back in the garage for another 12 years.

I'd be very very hacked off!

Mind the lacquer as you go back in :|

88

Problem is it could even be worst as i remember using the bearing loctite on this bit and inge k i have been checking my work but the crappy bit is i brought some xtra parts from a ebay strip down of a k100 that i have tried to keep seperate so it might have got mixed up so i will have to strip and if the part is in there then i really will be pissed

Better going back in than all the bits comming out to visit.

I do agree that this seeger ring shouldn`t be dirty, as you earlier did mention.
But afterall it is a close match............
What`s the inside dia?

On early models it should also be a diaphragm spring between the seeger ring and the bearing.
This diaphragm spring is a one time use.

f@#!%*&^$G hell dont you hate that but better to find it now than 300ks from home pissing with rain after all the effort you put in it would insane not to check should only set you back a weekend hopefully

45.5 id inge k crap that means replace rear main seal oring clutch nut redo all mating surfaces see rossco no need to feel jealous now.
Thanks Col you are right.

X-ray. Ultra sound. Surely they are viable alternatives.

Check the spares bike. Is it missing the part in question?

we all make mistakes thats what makes us human
dont worry we will make jokes about it in years to come and never let you for get it

on Halo dont you have pics on page 4 or there abouts of the build, maybe you can see it in there?

Bad news, mate, but even worse news if something happened out on the road because you overlooked a missing part. Keep your chin up!

Looks like my story, I pulled the secondary housing looking for a bearing noise that ended up being trans related and got most everything back together was getting ready to put the rear wheel lugs in and found the spring with the 2 lugs for the starter gear set still laying on my work bench. All I could do was smile and say F**K and start taking things apart again.

In another forum someone mounted this spring the wrong side in,
and locked the starter mechanism.........

Did not do that, I have been riding the bike for about a month but I will have to say that I had to look at the Clymer instructions several times because the pic's are not too great.

we may have to make an un expected run to victoiria and remove all sharp objects and rope wire string piosonous substances etc from halos shed

Halo wrote:

Only people not doing anything are the ones not making mistakes.
Don't you think that I didn't make any mistakes when I rebuilt my K100?
The good thing is that we recognize it and share our bad luck with others.
Yes we feel sorry for you, but when you do this kind of restoration small mistakes are expected.
Just loosen the oil pan, pull the output seal and re-install the ring.

CF