I have got to replace my input and output shaft seals. i am going to get non genuine seals for time factor and cost mainly. I have checked with our engineer here at work about using non genuine as the genuine seals are directional. He said that its ok to use a non directional seal in place of a directional one but not vice versa.

I just wanted to check on the sizes ( i havent pulled the gearbox out yet) I have had a look on the Munich web site at there pics of the seals. I got the sizes but wanted to check if anyone on here could confirm.

I have the sizes at Input shaft DG 22 35 7 RF01 and Output shaft DG 25 40 7 LF01. Munichs prices are $20 and $16, i can get them for about $3 each.

Any help would be appreciated, i am going to try and do the seals on friday so i can go for a ride after xmas.

alby did that excersize just a few weeks ago ....he might have the listings bert 2.0

Sizes are as you quoted Bert . If you are taking the box out I would replace the Rear main seal as well the sizes are seal 80 x 50 x 8 in viton the original is 10mm wide but I have used the 8mm one many times with total success but knock it in level not .5mm out as per manual for the original. the O ring for the clutch carrier centre is 27 x 20 x 3.5mm. It is behind the big nut at the centre of the carrier and will be very hard and probably not sealing well, it pays to replace it without the need to do the rear main.
There is a small seal in the rear end of the input shaft, be careful as they are not readily available in Oz and only genuine supply. They are available from Motobins UK.
I have a spare so if you want one PM me your address. It is not for sale only replacement. I have only ever had to replace one. If you do replace make sure to put it in the correct way ie outside towards the clutch, when you first see it you think its backwards but its not.

Thanks Charlie and Kfreak for reply.

K if i am just doing the input and output shaft seals, am i correct in assuming that i shouldnt damage the small seal at the rear of the input shaft?

I was thinking of doing the rear main while i was in there, thanks for the sizes for that and the o ring. What sort of time frame roughly should i allow for the whole job, i was thinking a full day should cover it.

The small seal is for the clutch pushrod and is usually OK and not easily damaged.
A full day is all it would take but it takes me 3 days because of my spine and pain and all that cr*p.
Before you remove the gearbox take the rubber boot of the clutch pushrod and remove the spring (if it hasn't already popped out) the bearing carrier (20mm round withball race inside the case) and pushrod to save bending it if it sticks in the clutch centre.
Not a bad idea to keep pressure on the actuating arm until the clamp on the rubber boot is removed. If the boot is old it could tear as there is heaps of spring against it.

You could do the swingarm bearings while there, they will come apart with a lever in the centre and a stiff jerk but careful the rollers dont scatter.
I have only seen one set that needed replacement so if there is a few wear lines just grease and replace.

I had a look at our great new manual and i can see the seal you are talking about. Yes i will do the swingarm bearings, i didnt realise that they were taper roller type.

I know what you are talking about with the back pain, i injured mine(lower back) years ago and now have severe arthritis because of it. Have good days and bad days. Hence now being workshop supervisor, crawling around in the bilges of boats not good for the back.

Also the reason i ditched the cruiser and bought the K100. Thanks again for the info.

Gee we are hogging the forum.
Another thing is the bolts holding the clutch together are prone to striping the hex out and are not easily found to replace. Use a bit of heat from a propane gas burner to make it easier maybe?????
They are a 7 x 1mm thread with a shallow socket head. A replacement I have used are from REPCO and are in the blister packs on the stands in the shops, made by Champion and are hex head of 11mm of 8.8 tensile and do the job fine and can be easily removed in the future.

K Freak wrote:Gee we are hogging the forum.

Are we hadn't noticed . But as i have learnt heaps from other topics that go back and forth for a while i have picked up heaps of tips.

With regards to your bad back comment. I have been toying with the idea of making a work lift that is a scaled up version of my hydraulic bike lifter. If i put on wheels it could be put in a ute or trailer for members of the forum to borrow, or come to my shed and use it (good excuse for having a beer and telling lies) It would make it easier on the back.

Just got my seals for gearbox from Bearing Services, cost me $15.07 all up for 2 sets thought i'd get spares.

Just noticed the topic!!! Good to see you have it sorted. Seals are easily removed and replaced with large sockets of same diameter used for pressing into place i found. Also the three small roll pins on the selector forks are prone to just popping off on a whim and falling into the gearbox on assembaly.
I built a lift table but would like some help to build on of THESE

[b]BE SURE TO MAKE CERTAIN OF ANY SHIMS AND THEIR PLACEMENTS>>ASK ME _ I LEARNT!!!

Hi Alby, at this stage i was only going to do the seals. I know its doing the job twice if i do bearings later, but its just time and funds at the mo. Seals are cheap and i got two sets. Hoping to go for a ride over the xmas break.

That hoist looks the goods. Its just uses an acme thread to do the lifting. What do you need a hand with, happy to help. Just send me a pm.

cool id like to see that happen ...good work guys

If you are going to replace the seals without opening the box..Post us some PICS!!!!!!

I am going to have a think about the lift. Our lift platforms at work use the same sleve and roller setup for lifting the stands up the post. I am sure I can design one..just need a decent boilermaker..to weld. Too much weight at risk! for my lil cigweld. Ill catch up after x-mass

If the main rear seal is on your menu for changing out, then over on the Motobrick forum, some innovative guy made his own main seal driver out of wood. Apparently it worked quite well, including leaving the seal 0.5mm proud of the casting.

Rear Main Seal Driver Alternatives?

Yes Alby that bike lifter looks similar in design to the operation of a standard 2 post car hoist. Shouldn't be too hard to nut out. The welding side is not a problem.

Thanks for the info Robmack, i might get the fitters here at work to knock me one up out of nylon.

I will post pics as i do the seals.