I just ordered These.
They are cheap and may solve the condensation problem in my pod.
It was only $13 with shipping

I am struggling with understanding how LED lights are going on their own to be able to stop condensation. Generally LED's run cooler than incandescent so if it was heating effect that is required the LED is not going to help I believe. When I got my bike I had condensation problems even with the Goretex ventilator disks on the back of the cluster. I treated all contacts inside with DeoxIT and also fitted the LED conversion from Drake Smith. Expensive for the leds from him but the quality is excellent and even on the darkest night no unpleasant glare from the display just super legible green glow that is readable in street lights or total darkness.

Sadly that little lot did not fix the condensation on my bike.

Time for plan B.

I was concerned when I had condensation that even when it was all in vapour form due to the sun heating the cluster the basic humidity level in the cluster was too high for safety of contacts etc. and the risk of corrosion.

I found the long term fix was to again take the cluster off, seal all the screw holes through the back where the internal stiffener plate was fixed, and then seal the shaft of the odometer reset knob with some high viscosity PTFE and synthetic grease that is rubber and plastic safe.

I also checked the sealing all round the clear plastic fronts (which was perfect or I would have sealed that with some flexible caulking).

I then again replaced the big main O ring and after assembly taped the seam around the outside with 1 inch wide high quality black plastic tape (which is hidden when it is mounted back into the metal shell which sits around the bottom half of the cluster.

Since doing that there has been no recurrence of condensation.
Regards,
K-BIKE

I have problems with led turn signal lights installed by previous owner. If I looked correctly there is a resistors on wires, but lights blinks still too rapidly. I have found out that the relay is not normal on K bikes, but I have no need for hazard lights and automatic system for turning blinkers off does not work anyway since I do not have anything left of the original instrument panel. So the question is - can I change either on of these to replace the original relay?

Links:
http://www.motonet.fi/web/guest/etusivu#productid=48-1886
or
http://www.motonet.fi/web/guest/etusivu#productid=48-1900
or
http://www.motonet.fi/web/guest/etusivu#productid=48-1927

And if so how does the wiring go?

A ordinary flasher relay won't function with our three button system,
you would have to add another relay to each of the circuits/side.

It would be easier to change the resistors to the get the correct resistance.

Sorry for dump question, but do you mean that I need 2 relays or 4. If 2 it would still be cheaper than resistors - and easier since all wiring is well packed in the back and it would mean lots of work to dig the wires out. If 2 relays is OK, how do I now how to put them (I have no idea of the insides of that original relay box).

And - came in to my mind - I not sure if those current resistors are installed correctly. They are connected in wires that comes from the indicator (= 8 resistors one in every wire). Is that how they should be?

The reason LED cluster conversions need resistors is because they draw less current than a filament bulb, to get an LED to simulate a bulb in current loading it is necessary to put a load resistor in parallel with the LED cluster, that way it draws the same amount as a bulb alone.

As replacements for filament bulbs LED's don't do a lot for flashers because their ability to light rapidly is not needed unlike when they are used for a replacement brake light or modulating tail light the only possible plus is enhanced reliability. Because of the need to either modify the flasher or put in parallel resistors I never have been attracted to the concept of using LED's for direction indicator lights but that may just be me :-)
Regards,
K-BIKE

You need headlight relays from a car where a short pulse/flash is used to change
from low to high beam.
But these relays react on a positive current signal, and the switches on the bike
connects to ground.......so you would also need two more relays to change the polarity
of the signal........five relays all together....read messy.

Don't know about your 8 resistors in each wire system, usually the shops who sells
LEDS for automotive use also have the corrct resistors to be used together
with flasher relays.

Thanks guys.

Made a decision to tear the bike down once more. I will get rid off those led indicators - which I dont even like - and buy me 4 normal indicators.. I believe the right one is 21W - am I correct? I will also put a horn in the bike and move rearlight few cm backwards. Trying to make my brick as legal in Finland as possible and the rear light is more than 30cm from the most rear point of the bike.

So thanks, no need for relays or recistors. One question remains though. Bike does not have a indicator light at instrumet panel. There is a place for it, but no wiring. What would be the simpliest way to make the wiring for the lamp.

Instrument panel looks like this: http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/EV2.jpg there is just a bulb in there. I also miss the neutral light, but solving that is a different story.

Hi Tenox,
21 Watt is the right value that will make the flashers function normally. Good idea about getting the bike to look as legal as possible sometimes the local constabulary or Government sanctioned fine collectors pick on bikes and their riders to see if they can gouge a fine out for some minor infringement.
Regards,
K-BIKE

21W bulbs is correct for the flashers, the indicator light is connected in paralell.

If you intend to use only one indicator bulb...you must add a diode to each circuit
leading to the indicator lamp.

So once again dumb question. Do I need 4 diodes and does this mean that I have to wire that bulb so, that it gets positive from every flasher? Does diodes go so that they only give current to the bulb, but not backwards?

As you can see I dont really know much about electrics. Thats why I dont like this mess that previous owner left for me..

Tenox wrote: Does diodes go so that they only give current to the bulb, but not backwards?..

Correct, ...you only one diode in the wire from each side leading to the indicator bulb.
Search 1N4001.

Thanks again. I see why you are forums best member 2012.

Local electronics shop does not have that diode, but they said that 1N4007 Diode 1000V 1A would do instead. Costs amazing 0,10e. Finally a cheap part for my bike. Went shopping for indicators today, but did not find any yet. Opinions about the style of them are taken. Should I buy round ones or arrow shaped or something else?

For this bike: http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/K100C_011b.JPG

I think maybe round, because of the frontlight but not sure.

The 1N4007 would be just fine.

About the indicators, round ones would be nicest........is my opinion.

OK, shopping one of them 4007 ASAP. Or perhaps too, just in case.

With diodes the higher the last number the higher the Peak Inverse Voltage (PIV) reverse voltage they will stand without breaking down, 4001 is rated at 50 Volts whereas 4007 is rated at 1000 Volts. For this application 4007 is fine.
Regards,
K-BIKE

So I actually needed 2 diodes. I read that Inge's text badly. For some reason I however bought two of them, so I got it working! After only one fuse popping.. Hard work still, because the first set of indicators were not 21W as I was told, but 2.0W. So they did not work at all. I did get my money back (or atleast I can buy something with that sum of money from that store), but had to get indicators elsewhere. Could not find round ones, but these are like ellipt (?) or something. And they are BRIGHT. And they blink like they should. And I do have a working indicator light also in my instrument panel.

So thanks again all. I could not have done this without your support.

One lucky strike also happened. Found the original wire that comes from the horn button to the horn! Thanks to Haynes mainly. So installing horn after that was a piece of a cake. Works too. So I'm ready for the road! Unfortunatetly the roads are not quite ready for me yet. (-6 celsius, snow, ice.) Only problem left is tailbrake. It should be OK, it has some new stuff in it (dont know better), but it does not work. I will try to pump air out of the system, but if that doesn't work, don't know what next.

Looks like this now: http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/K100C_012e.JPG