Hello,
I recently purchased a K100 RS (87) as I try to re-live the glory days of my youth. I currently have a brace of 650 singles that serve as regular transport.
Compared to the 650's the K felt (initially) quite heavy.
Now that I have some miles under my belt with the 'K' I find that she is a little heavier going to the left rather than the right. It's a subtle thing that I didn't notice initially, but it's there.
Frame and forks seem fine.
No paint flaking around the neck of the frame - no oil coming from the forks.
I'm going to replace the tyres this weekend as I believe I still have the factory front tyre in place.
The tree has been lowered on the forks and I'm hoping that the malady is nothing more than the triple tree out of alignment. I'm going to slacken axle, fork brace and both upper and lower tree and then tighten the axle first then triple and then brace.

Any thoughts?

Is there a 2mm spacer between the rear wheel and rear drive. If it is not there what you describe is what happens, the centre of the wheels is not in line.

K Freak wrote:Is there a 2mm spacer between the rear wheel and rear drive. If it is not there what you describe is what happens, the centre of the wheels is not in line.

I'll take a look on Saturday and report back - I hadn't though about looking towards the rear of the bike. Thank you K-Freak.
On another note, is there a degree of seepage that is acceptable from the water/oil pump?
I don't have a drip on the floor, but I can see where it's a little oily around the drain hole. Again, no drops or droplets even.
cheers, M

K-freak,
I see the part, #36311451791 SHIM - 2,000MM02
I'll report back.

K Freak wrote:Is there a 2mm spacer between the rear wheel and rear drive. If it is not there what you describe is what happens, the centre of the wheels is not in line.

The spacer is in place. Aside from a very dry tyre, the rear wheel looks fine.
I've got some grease coming to lube the splines while I'm there.

Where there is a small weep of oil coming from the water oil pump i recommend running a small drill held between the fingers up there to ensure there is no grit which has mixed with the oil to semi seal the hole. Just through the side wall is as far as you need to go with a drill just large/small enough to fit.
Regards,
K-BIKE

K-BIKE wrote:Where there is a small weep of oil coming from the water oil pump i recommend running a small drill held between the fingers up there to ensure there is no grit which has mixed with the oil to semi seal the hole. Just through the side wall is as far as you need to go with a drill just large/small enough to fit.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Got that. The hole is free and clear.
Cheers, M

K-BIKE wrote:Where there is a small weep of oil coming from the water oil pump i recommend running a small drill held between the fingers up there to ensure there is no grit which has mixed with the oil to semi seal the hole. Just through the side wall is as far as you need to go with a drill just large/small enough to fit.
Regards,
K-BIKE

It may be a sign of things to come so I would rebuild the pump while it can be done in relative comfort of your own workshop and not when it fails and fills the radiator with oil and the engine with coolant at the most inconvenient time as those things will do.
There are two types of pump and an 87 will most likely have the early type which is identified by a nut on the impeller as to a bolt on the later one. this can be established by removing the plate on the fromt of the pump. The later model can be rebuilt but the earlier type has to be replaced as no parts are available. If that is the case finding a late model pump and rebuilding would be the better option. Maybe the K75 you spoke of will have the right pump.

The purpose of clearing the hole is to see how much oil is there if it is only a little dampness then there is probably little to worry about for a while longer. If clearing the hole releases more oil then a pump re-build is on the to-do list.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Well good news and not unexpected news.

The rear suspension (upper) was connected to the forward oval shaped hole. I moved it back to the rearward round hole.

The yokes of the triple tree were positioned 3/8 down the forks. I moved them back to the top.

The tyres were shot. I replaced both tyres this morning and that little trio said good-bye to the hard steering to the left issue.

A spirited multi-hour ride to prove the handling has left me in the possession of a 2 row radiator $25.

And of-course the not so unexpected news - yup! oil pump replacement is definitely on the cards.

Thus far I am feeling like I am within budget getting the bike on the road in a tourable condition. I may go for a new pump and quell any ghosts of doubt. Will the new pump fit the 87 K100 bike?

The bike is very nice to work on.

Cheers, M

The pumps are all interchangeable through to at least 12/93 and I think to the end of production of the K1100.
I went looking for a new one a short while ago and $320AU was the best price I could find. Have a look before you buy and check for the nut or bolt in the center of the impeller as rebuilding is much cheaper. The rebuild kit was about $50AU.

nice start moto .....happy riding to you



cheers

K Freak wrote:There are two types of pump and an 87 will most likely have the early type which is identified by a nut on the impeller as to a bolt on the later one.

The nut was used on `83 - `85 year models (could be this have changed even before `85, not quite shure). My oldest, an early `86 (03/86) has a bolt.

In my oldest Haynes manual (printed `88, covers `83-`87) an early `86 is dismantled and also shows
a bolt, and reefers in the text to the nut as "used on earlier models".

The factory manual (08/87) shows a bolt, and the different torque values (nut/bolt), but nothing
mentioned when this was changed.

Inge K.

Inge K. wrote:

The nut was used on `83 - `85 year models (could be this have changed even before `85, not quite shure). My oldest, an early `86 (03/86) has a bolt.

In my oldest Haynes manual (printed `88, covers `83-`87) an early `86 is dismantled and also shows
a bolt, and reefers in the text to the nut as "used on earlier models".

The factory manual (08/87) shows a bolt, and the different torque values (nut/bolt), but nothing
mentioned when this was changed.

Inge K.

Thanks for this.

I have some fork boots to put on and a radiator to change - I'll start the service of the oil pump then, when access is good and the fluids are drained.

This isn't my only ride, so I can afford some sit time waiting for parts to come in.

Cheers, M