As I said in a previous post I was taking a closer look at the 'new' bike today and finally got around to a quick spin around the block after fitting the new stop light switch.

Changing direction coming out of a roundabout I got the sense that the bike was not steering as it should so it was a slow trip back home for a closer look.  Tyre pressure was OK, head bearing seem to work smoothly, no sign of spun wheel bearings and nothing seemed to be loose.   

You know that bit in the book 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' where he sits and looks at the bike ? ...  I pulled up the trusty milk crate (with a cushion on top these days) I carefully used the Mk.1 eyeball from back to front and top to bottom....when I moved the bars from full right lock to left, there it was.  The right fork leg was sitting proud of the top triple clamp by a good 20mm.  I don't know if the PO had been aware of this or if he had been riding the bike like that but it sure felt strange.
The pinch bolts were tight but I doubt they had sufficient torque.  I loosened all the bolts including the fork pinch and axle bolt... realigned them, re-torqued and off for another spin around the block.  While it does not steer like my 996 Ducati it sure felt a whole lot better than my previous circumnavigation of the block.

On a friend's recently bought K75, the heavy steering was traced to a zip tie!

It was used by the PO, (who apparently toured Europe regularly...), to attach the front brake hydraulic hose to the frame just behind the headstock   It had been there long enough to wear through the paint to bare metal.

hope the springs haven't sagged in one side oz

keep at it !

My 85 K tends to "wallow" in high speed sweepers, more so on right handers than lefts.

When I cleaned up the bike I did not really do any work on the forks except taking the sliders out, cleaning out the old oils and installing new seals. I suppose there could be any number of problems such as worn bores or sagged springs.
 I did not dis-assemble the inner workings of the springs & dampeners.

I don't even pretend to understand the differences in all the variations in fork designs that could be on an early K100, nor do I even understand how the dampeners work.

I read somewhere here that if the fork leg bores are "worn" where the sliders work up & down in them that they're not repairable or could they be machined & re bushed? 

What's my best option?

Regards, Ibjman

Yes they could be repaired but I really dont think it would be anything close to economical and I certainly would not want to be the fitter who got the job of machining them.
They would be cast then bored then the rest machined to match the bore alignment and remachining to get it concentric with the old bore line would be almost impossible.

have a look at motorworks parts for some ideas

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=MA&SbCt=BA_15_40_MA_25

lots of bits available,  but it seems that there are a few important parts  that could be changed ...and available

Thanks, I thought so too.

Question is if you buy a used set, aren't they likely to be worn as well?

Thought I should share my recent experience on this very subject.
My original '84 K100RT forks had recently started to leak despite changing the seals, the right one quite badly. And, yes, I did use BMW seals. There is a big difference between the cheap ones and originals.
I'm starting to think that the bushes were shot.
Picked up a pair on eBay of unknown pedigree for £46. The owner had bought them for his 16v but found that they were the wrong ones but the description sounded honest. Bearing in mind that breakers are charging £100 for ones similar to my originals, I thought it was worth a chance.
They are the later type with a solid bridge and 2 piece guard and made in '86 and '87. 
Part nos. 1 454 326 and 1 454 325 if anyone can tell what they are from. 
Strangely enough, I believe that the original one piece guard would have fitted these forks. 
Tracked down a 2 piece guard with the bridge for £37 and a quick swap last Thursday.
I could feel the difference as soon as I took it off the centre stand. 
Handling is much improved with less dip on braking and feels a lot tighter than before. Ride height is up a good 25mm, too. 
Along with disconnecting the lower TPS switch its feels so much better. Just shows up the rear Hagon shock now.

Interesting thread. My fork tubes are visibly worn and the seals were replaced last year so they're working fine otherwise. My thoughts are to replace the forks this winter, and to that end I purchased the remnants of a K100 (~25K mi.) built in 1985 about 9 months after my bike. The K100 forks seem identical, except the sleeves are anodized black. So, I'm looking forward to the change-over next year to more youthful and improved forks, springs, etc.

A two piece forkset with a bridge sounds like the K75 or K100 sports forkset they were set with 135mm travell rather than the stock standard 185mm so they carry different springs and spacers. And they usually work a treat introduced 1986 and on my 75 of 1987