Finally found a tank bag on Flea-Bay so I think I'm finally set for luggage. :-)
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction TWB!

Not looking so good for the coils today. :-( Primary coils test out at 2.2-2.4 Ohm range, but the the secondary coils on both give no reading at all. Need to try cleaning out the contacts again before getting down.

OG

question og ? what range did you have your multimeter on ? i just cant make it out in your photo .

i hope it was high .....like 200,000 = 200k or 2 meg

if you only had it on 200 ohms it would show open

most secondarys of coils are above 10 k ohms

and it looks like you are measuring ht output to ht output which would be over 20,000 ohms

try earth side to ht output

and try to confirm that you are in fact touching the inner connection ...(doesnt look like red lead has enough angle to make that connection )

just a thought

Thanks for the heads up Charlie! It's a very cheap meter and it only has a auto ranging setting. I think its time to pony up for a better meter or at least confirm on a borrowed one before writing off the coils.

OG

og ...i dont think its the meter ...it maybe autoranging ...which is good for someone not used to all the settings .

but i do think you should be looking at earthy side of the coil and output of the high tension to get an accurate measurement, even if you got the positive side of the primary it would only add 2.4 ohms to the overall result ....12,000 + 2.4 is nothing to worry about

maybe even a length of stiff wire wound around the probe would let you see if you are indeed touching the high tension cup inside the insulator stack .... try again mate ..and good luck

Hi OG report back what you find there should be as above somewhere around 12,000 ohms.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Hey K,
Tested them with a new RMS meter and still no joy. Have a set of used coils coming from a trusted vender on Flea-Bay so hopefully closing in a getting her up again.

OG

This is what I found when measuring mine:

Thanks Bert! They are just way off spec and looks like the prime candidate for the way rich condition. I'm gonna test the used ones and may just go with the new from the discount shop in Colorado.

OG

Another Flea-Bay find today. Hopefully the other parts and tools arrive soon!




OG

Used coils arrived today. Don't look pretty, but no cracks and readings are much better than my blown out pair. Both primaries read about 2.0-2.1 and the secondaries are 10,250 and 9,900 respectively.








OG

So get em in there!! Let's here it roar!

Firing up the tank right now C! :-)

Cleaned up well.


OG

Love the quality of your work OG.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Top work OG,


BIG D

love the new multi meter og ...woohooo

seems the coils arent wired the way i thought ....seems as if there the isolated types ...hmmm ...well you learn something new every day ...thank hevens

good work on finding some replacements

Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

OG

I know what you mean Charlie. I learned Way more about coils than I ever really wanted to, lol!

OG

Friggin' paperclips...I keep on forgetting to use those things!

Great work Oldgoat.

Motobins arrived today! Hopefully the electrical supplies will arrive soon so I can get this kit in and fire her up.
Thanks again TWB for pointing me towards the mirror extensions!



OG

Got the coils in last night and pulled the plugs. Plugs were just a mess considering they are new with maybe 25 miles on them. On to the tank and just waiting on some electrical supplies and I'm going to have to clean up the loom as the whole undertank compartment just reeks of fuel. Also, going to re-insulate the tank and the fuel lines as it looks like I might be moving to very warm enivirons.



OG

Wrapping fuel lines with fiberglass tape and than plan on putting a silicone sleeve over this. Thanks Robmack! :-)



OG

Oldgoat wrote:Wrapping fuel lines with fiberglass tape and than plan on putting a silicone sleeve over this. Thanks Robmack! :-)

You're welcome OG.

I read the description for this product and it reduces the transferance of heat by reflecting it. Will this be sufficient to keep the engine heat away from the fuel? The usual material used is foam insulation. Foam insulation functions differently by introducing a resistance to heat conduction. I'm unsure that the reflective tape will have the same effect.

Why cover the taped fuel line in sillicone sleave afterwards? What's the purpose?

Hey Rob,
My bad with the description. It's actually Silicone Jacketed fiberglass.

http://www.techflex.com/prod_FIN.asp

I have this from another project so I thought I would do a little experiment and see how they work in conjunction. The tape is just a thin layer of fiberglass adhered to the reflective foil so I think you're right that it wouldn't do the job on its own, and I don't think it would hold up well being exposed to fuel and such.
I'll let you know how it turns out.

OG

Are you trying to re-engineer the K100?
During the months of July-August, the temperature is around 40C and when riding in town, the fan will start every 5 min. Other than a blast of hot air blowing on my legs, I never experienced any problems with the gas being too hot. I always try to keep a good level of gas in my tank (I refill when the 7 liters light comes on) and that seems to prevent the fuel from bubbling.
What you are doing is an improvement but I don't think this is necessary. I cannot hurt to improve the design.

CF

Thanks for the input Bert! Just outta curiosity does yours have the fiberglass mat on the underside of the tank?

OG

Crazy Frog wrote:...Other than a blast of hot air blowing on my legs, I never experienced any problems with the gas being too hot.

Last season, driving around in 35-40C temperatures in Toronto, I experienced hot tank problems. To alleviate that problem this year, I re-routed the return line to the outside of the engine compartment. The normal route for the return line is from the pressure regulator, through the engine compartment, past the rad return hose and into the tank. I routed my line from the pressure regulator, between the 3rd and 4th intake manifold, up along the left frame member and into the tank. I secured the line loosely with a tie wrap to the frame. Since the line now exits the hot engine compartment early and does not run against the hot rad hose, I'm hoping the change will keep the gas cooler and tank consequently cooler.

I'm also going to try out the Jerry Blanket idea as well. My tank has the insulation on the underside but the Jerry Blanket will add extra insulation. I'll report my findings later this summer.

i think the real problem is heat saturation from the radiator proximity .
i have also insulated the return fuel line and noticed some effect ...but if you actually feel the tank near the front ...right above the radiator you will notice that it is verry hot . mine has an additional issue in that just near the fuel takeoffs i have no insulation at all for that whole area ...so that exposes about 6 inches by 2 inches directly to that saturated area .
i noticed on a ride last weekend (air temp was much cooler 23c than we usually have 30 c +) the tank was no where near as hot at all ...flow of air i suspect and cooling affect, heat transfer was still there but no where near as high .
still working on my ram air shroud in front of the radiator to push cool air into those areas . ive got the mould but need enchoragement to get the fibreglass work done .....and stop riding on my days off .

Well Charlie I certainly don't want to be the person to encourage you to stop riding on your days off, BUT I'd certainly luv to see what you've got in mind!

OG

so this is the positive ...from which i have made a negative ....

youll have to use a little imagination as this is will be the outer shell

below this on the fairing propper are two triangular holes that mate up with passages that go to the underside of the tank through the frame.
if you have the tank off you will be able to see them either side of the ignition controller computer (ignitor) and once you cable manage the cables and stuff around that area.

yes i know there is the y bar yolk for the brake feed about the same location on the frame /bottom of the stearing head ..but a little cut in the fiberglass will enable clearance once fitted up .

the bmw crew made cups to push air into the fairing through the fork sockets in the fairing ......which is fine but its really just a presure thing to try to cause flow through the fairing proper ...i see my mod as feeding air to the underside of the tank with the intention of creating a high presure and cooling flow to the underside of the tank ....with the right application (of removal of the heat shield through the centre line of the tank ) ambient temperature air will push through sucking the heat out of the whole area ,,,,and near ambient air should now vent out past the tank right about the thigh area .....well whilst mooving anyhow


well thats my theory
as you know i cable tie my multimeter to the inside of the fairing with a temp sensor bluetacked to the area im trying to measure ....ill let you know how it goes ......with the mould made it should be perty easy to pop out a couple of extras ....for testing
yeah im, crazy ...but if you never try ...you dont know what your capable of ....huh ?

Wow Charlie! Now that is my kind of tweeking! I really like your idea of improving the airflow along with the insulation as both are needed to get a solution that will work across a broader range of situations. I just found out about those fairing tubes BMW made to improve flow, but I'm thinking your setup will be superior to that. Keep us posted on progress!

OG
p.s. I've been know to pull out the temp probe too so you're not the only crazy one.

Found these pics of 1100 panels on a mark I.

nice !!!

Parts finally arrived last night! Time to get her running again!


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Will be posting progress over the weekend

OG

Hey Folks,
Dumb question. What's up with the parking light in the headlamp unit? Couldn't find anything in the fiche and I've got no wiring for it or can really see where it plugs in.
Thanks!
OG

There should be a two-wire leader coming off from the main headlight connector bundle. The wire colours are white and brown; female 1/2" spade connectors on the ends of the wires.

I suggest that you replace the stock parking light with a LED strip while the fairing is off. These strips have SMD LEDs soldered to a flexible substrate and covered with vinyl tubing. They can be cut to length. Even Walmart has them in stock complete with leads. Substituting for the pilot light is simple -- remove the OEM light and socket, fish the flexible LED strip in through the hole and connect up the 12V power. It iwll look something like this when finished:

Thanks Rob!

I found them. Apparently the guy who repainted wrapped them up and zip tied them to the mounting bracket. I like the LED's. Looks like a new Audi!

OG

Finally running cables!

Quick update folks. Replaced cables and all the remaining rubber hoses that were still original. The silicone jacketed fiberglass sleeving looks a bit like a sex toy option, and may have to be covered with some black fuel resistant shrink tube to bring back an OEM look. In my impromptu experiments it was very effective at keeping the inside of the lines cool.
Was planning on doing the tank rubber this morning along with testing, but the pacific northwest weather rolled in last night so might have to postpone as my tiny garage is not well ventilated. :-(

OG

Hi, being unable to find a new Luftmeister exhaust, I'm very interested in the Kerker model seen in this post...

Oldgoat wrote:Quick update folks. Replaced cables and all the remaining rubber hoses that were still original. The silicone jacketed fiberglass sleeving looks a bit like a sex toy option, and may have to be covered with some black fuel resistant shrink tube to bring back an OEM look. In my impromptu experiments it was very effective at keeping the inside of the lines cool.

Thanks for the updates, OG. I for one am interested to find out more about the fuel line insulation you are trialing. If you could give a short summary of the products you're using, that would be great. That way, I'll see if I can source them or equivalents here in Canada; sometimes the original products are not readily available.

No problem Rob. I used the silicone sleeving that is lined with fiberglass and I purchased it from McMaster-Carr.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeving/=c38adi

The foil wrap I had around the garage as I said, but you can get it from a bunch of places including Amazon.com

I tested these with a temp probe and my heat gun and tried to keep the variables the same for all three.

Fuel hose alone went up to 185F after five minutes and stabilized at this temp.

Silicone sleeve over the fuel hose without foil tape went up to 143F after ten minutes and was ever so slowly creeping upwards.

Silicone sleeve with the foil tape wrapped under it went up to 129F after 10 minutes and was also ever so slowly creeping upwards.

Hope this gives you some more info you can use and I will also post back actual road results once it starts to really heat up here.

OG

it does look kinda "different " og .....but i like the thinking .

myself ..i used the "standard" refrigeration mechanics insulation
which is 9.0 mm wall x 13mm id which stretches ever so slightly to fit over the hose. at $5.00 per length ( 2 meters)
given that most of the hose that were insulating is more or less hiden , i havent tried to "tart" it up .
but i see that your end product should pass through just about everywhere it needs to ...just be carefull near the fan huh ?
looking good mate

The weather cleared and finally getting to the tank!

dont forget that fuel return valve og ......there noisy critters...

Question for all you folks who have experience with the tank. The new screen for the fuel pump is smaller than the existing one and doesn't fit over the pump. I was unaware of there being more than one alternative for this part. My pump is a 52mm and my existing filter is almost 55mm ID. Anyone who can enlighten me on this it would be greatly appreciated!



OG

Hi OG I think you have the 1100 pump which work OK but were smaller diameter and need a foam spacer to get them to fit also a different screen. Take a look at Euromotoelectrics site he sells both bits and not too spendy either.http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category_s/60.htm
Regards,
K-BIKE.

Hey K,
That was the confusing part as the fuel pump is the correct 52mm model. It's the new fuel pump filter on the left that is to small to fit over the fuel pump. The pump measured 52.12mm on the calipers and the ID of the new fuel pump filter measured out at 52.15mm so not really close considering it has to go over the rubber damper as well. The ID of my old brown colored filter is 53.75mm so a good bit bigger. I was unaware that the fuel filter with the hose attachment came in different diameters?
Anyway, had to just re-use my old brown one for now as she's got to go over the DMW for her inspection this week. Will have to track the mystery down as the old had some small tears and will need to be swapped out.

OG

Thanks for the heads-up Charlie! Did you just replace yours?

OG

not yet og .....
but i am going to take cf's idea of a pipe to the top of the tank as the best option i have heard to date......
dont forget i welcome the sound of a ratly valve for the moment ....giggles....

but that being solved ...i realy should get the soldering iron out and fit something up before our meet up in a few weeks .

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Charlie! I need to get up to speed on that.

OG