My original site glass was weeping so I popped it out over the weekend to replace it. It was super easy as it had a plastic window. A simple process of creating a hole with a soldering iron and then popping it out with the blade of a screwdriver.

I picked up a new one today and noticed the window is now glass, not plastic. I'm concerned about the possibility of things going horribly wrong and it cracking or breaking. My plan is to use a 30mm socket with an extension and a rubber mallet.

Do you guys have any techniques or tips? I was thinking about putting it in the fridge overnight to slightly shrink it or possibly using some isopropyl alcohol around the rubber seal to make it "slippery" before whacking away.

Thanks,
Tom

The cold and lube cant hurt. I have done 2 glass ones w/o issue, however I have been using a deadblow mallet (shot filled) which seems to transfer a lot of energy with a soft tap to maximize accuracy control when tapping the socket to install.

RS Rider wrote:   I'm concerned about the possibility of things going horribly wrong and it cracking or breaking. 

So what? There's an oil filter designed to block any glass micro particle before it reaches any part of the engine.
I've seen many BMW mechanics simply break the glass with a screwdriver and hammer to remove it effortless, don't worrying about consequences. And they were right.

If you're really scared, flush the engine after you changed the site glass or remove the bottom plate. That's always very interesting to see all the stuff that is staying there that should no be inside of (  ) an engine.

jbt wrote:

RS Rider wrote:   I'm concerned about the possibility of things going horribly wrong and it cracking or breaking. 

So what? There's an oil filter designed to block any glass micro particle before it reaches any part of the engine.
I've seen many BMW mechanics simply break the glass with a screwdriver and hammer to remove it effortless, don't worrying about consequences. And they were right.

If you're really scared, flush the engine after you changed the site glass or remove the bottom plate. That's always very interesting to see all the stuff that is staying there that should no be inside of (  ) an engine.

Did you actually read my post? The old one is removed. My concern with respect to cracking/breaking the glass is with regard to installing the new one. It would be preferable to not buy a second one-not cheap.

The seal is designed to install dry. It comes with a circlip but you have an early model so the bore might not contain a groove for the clip. No problem. Thoroughly clean the bore and its land for the glass. With the glass's oil level line in proper alignment, press the glass by hand into the hole until it is held by friction. With a 30mm socket pressed against the seal's frame, use a dead blow mallet to carefully drive the glass inward until it seats on its land. You could use an extension in the socket if necessary.

If it were a metal bearing you might freeze it first, but it isn't so don't bother.

As suggested by Laitch, I pushed it in squarely with my thumbs as far as I could and then drove it home with my 26oz dead blow hammer. This is as far as it would tap in. There is a little bit of a ridge around the perimeter from the 30mm socket. Thanks for the help, everyone.

The proof of the pudding is in the tasting. If it idles without leaking, if the oil level is visible, and it doesn't leak oil during or after a ride, I'd call it good enough.