On a recent trip the bike was behaving perfectly, started easily in the mornings even though very cold temps overnight. Then one morning after starting easily the Red battery light was a little slow to go out (say 30secs) and thereafter it performed as normal. One quick stop (morning coffee) and again all ok. Travelled 30 Km and then pulled up to regroup and switched off, On restart the battery light stayed on after start up but only as a Glow and not full brightness (maybe 1/2 strength). Continued to watch the glowing red light (sometimes wavering in its intensity but never full brightness) and after about 30 Km the engine spluttered and stalled very similar to running out of fuel.(plenty of fuel in tank)
The battery was flat and after a charge No change. Battery test confirmed it had dropped a cell. New battery and a change of alternator produced no significant change, the starter spins but that is all, I can hear the fuel pump prime and also run for a couple of seconds after turn off. It performs remarkably like when the ECU or Motronic box has become loose from the "monster" plug. All fuses have been checked and ok and all functions of the switch blocks appear to work like indicators brake lights, horn etc
Where to from here please, electronics are not my strong suit, but usually I can follow instructions ok.
Thanks in advance
Mike

I'm not confident the new battery is a good one, especially if you got it from a place that doesn't have a high turnover of batteries. It might read over 12Volts, but be low on Amps.

daveyson wrote:I'm not confident the new battery is a good one, especially if you got it from a place that doesn't have a high turnover of batteries. It might read over 12Volts, but be low on Amps.

I am confident that the batt is fine and it is the second new one I have had on this "project" with the same results. It appears to me there is no spark, I tried sparkplug in the lead earthing onto the cam cover but nothing.

Which, of your three bricks, is having this problem?  There are differences in the wiring.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Which, of your three bricks, is having this problem?  There are differences in the wiring.

K1100

Fixed - loose plug

Which one? Just for future info.

The ignition amplifier at the base of the battery box

FYI: The most overlooked maintenance item on 93 and earlier K1100, K1 and K100RS4V bikes is the redoing the heat sink compound behind the ignition amp.

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ignamp/ignamp.htm


If you've never done this then I highly recommend it. When I bought my 91 K1 it ran OK but after I redid the ignition amp heat sink compound it ran much better and much smoother.

Over the years I've had several people ask for help on bikes that ran poorly when warmed up and redoing the heat sink compound was the solution.

Duck,

Thanks for the insight on the ignition amp heat sink maintenance.

duck wrote:FYI: The most overlooked maintenance item on 93 and earlier K1100, K1 and K100RS4V bikes is the redoing the heat sink compound behind the ignition amp.

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ignamp/ignamp.htm


If you've never done this then I highly recommend it. When I bought my 91 K1 it ran OK but after I redid the ignition amp heat sink compound it ran much better and much smoother.

Over the years I've had several people ask for help on bikes that ran poorly when warmed up and redoing the heat sink compound was the solution.

Just to add to this important info make sure the earthing wire on the battery cradle is in good condition as that can and often has stopped K1100s in their tracks by not having an earth on the ignition amplifier.

I always wondered why that "extra" little ground wire is there. Makes sense now.