Some time soon when it cools down enough we are planning to have a K Kronies WorKshop day. Dan is planning to do a water pump restoration tutorial. To make life a bit easier I want to machine up the seal tool, would anybody have the tool and be willing to supply the dimensions. It would be appreciated.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Some time soon when it cools down enough we are planning to have a K Kronies WorKshop day. Dan is planning to do a water pump restoration tutorial. To make life a bit easier I want to machine up the seal tool, would anybody have the tool and be willing to supply the dimensions. It would be appreciated.
Regards Martin.

I have 2. One from Munich MC and the other from K Bikes in Bega.
I'll measure them up today and take some photos.
I got caught out in rebuilding my K1100RS oil/water pump as the impeller spacer was 12mm long. The replacement spacers are 10mm.
I have a stainless steel pump shaft that was fitted by Chris at the BMW Shop many years ago.
I'll have to find where I have stashed the original shaft and compare the shaft lengths.
The replacement shaft doesn't have the allen-key slot in the end.
That makes tightening up the impeller bolt a right royal PITA.

When I did my K1100LT water pump back in 2009 I just used a 27mm socket with a short extension to drift the seal in. Many thousands of miles and 15 years later and everything is still good. If memory serves, I think I got this tip from the IBMWR K tech pages



If I worked at a dealer and got the special tools for free then I'd be all over using them but I honestly don't see the need to custom machine special tools that really aren't necessary. JMHO. YMMV.

That makes tightening up the impeller bolt a right royal PITA.

Just get it kind of tight. Then install the WP on the engine block before torqueing the impeller bolt. 

When removing, I've found that it's also easier to break the impeller bolt threads before removing the WP from the block.

Thanks  Andrew I was also chasing a shaft but ha a bit of a shock the only one I could find was $150 plus freight.
Regards Martin.

I did the same as Duck but with a minor caveat; one of my 27mm sockets fitted perfectly (Draper) and the other was too wide (Teng). Guess which one I fitted first.

I did mine yesterday with a new shaft from Munich
Couple of learnings. I had to file/sand down the thick end of the new shaft; just a 10th of a mm.or so. Else it would not fit the engine side. This due to the lathe leaving that little ridge at the end. Not a big thing.
Then I used a socket to push in the oil seal
And finally used the ‘bolt and washer’ method to drive in the water seal. Pretty straight forward. Half way you need to add the spacer. Just check at times you don’t over tighten the new water seal.
(Plenty of info online on the bolt & washer method)

While the engine hasn’t run yet (first need to build up the bike around it) very confident all is well (famous last words) but my next one would probably take me less than 15min to do this way.

If you want the seal drive tool, there is one on thingyverse that you can then let someone 3D print.

Dai wrote:I did the same as Duck but with a minor caveat; one of my 27mm sockets fitted perfectly (Draper) and the other was too wide (Teng). Guess which one I fitted first.

Sometimes it helps to buy cheap, thin-walled sockets, eh?

Just kidding. I don't buy cheapo tools. I usually buy mid-grade six wall sockets of decent quality. Brands like Kobalt.