As seen in this post, my shaft drive is broken. What I need is this part (or the entire two-piece shaft):




I've been searching for a used drive shaft on different websites, and so far I found exactly one - on eBay from America, so the part's cost + shipping comes out to more or less the OEM cost, which is expensive.

Is anyone selling that part in Europe? Please let me know if you do!

I just sent an Email to two of my contacts in France (Honest and reliable).
As soon as I get an answer, I will let you know.

CF

If the one you found on eBay is the one I saw I would advise you to not get it.  The photos of the Final drive end had some pretty beat up looking splines with not a lot of life left in them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-2-piece-K1-K1100RS-Complete-DRIVE-SHAFT-U-Joint-16v-K100RS-K1100LT/381672572556?hash=item58dd75468c:g:KegAAOSwGIRXYwL9&vxp=mtr

There were two listed by James Sherlock who is a U.K. seller that you might want to look at.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1100LT-1998-57-365-miles-driveshaft/162918458487?hash=item25eeb26477:g:vSYAAOSw8fpZzRiI&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1100LT-1992-31-967-miles-driveshaft/162926175862?hash=item25ef282676:g:zZkAAOSwmNxacZY9&vxp=mtr

StefanMajonez wrote:As seen in this post, my shaft drive is broken. What I need is this part (or the entire two-piece shaft):

I've been searching for a used drive shaft on different websites, and so far I found exactly one - on eBay from America, so the part's cost + shipping comes out to more or less the OEM cost, which is expensive.

Is anyone selling that part in Europe? Please let me know if you do!

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Here is somebody in Europe who could help you.
He has one, but he has to check if it's in good shape.
He's a very reliable seller and his prices are better than what you can find on Ebay.

Crazy Frog wrote:

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Fixed, thanks

Point-Seven-five wrote:If the one you found on eBay is the one I saw I would advise you to not get it.  The photos of the Final drive end had some pretty beat up looking splines with not a lot of life left in them.

(link)

There were two listed by James Sherlock who is a U.K. seller that you might want to look at.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1100LT-1998-57-365-miles-driveshaft/162918458487?hash=item25eeb26477:g:vSYAAOSw8fpZzRiI&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1100LT-1992-31-967-miles-driveshaft/162926175862?hash=item25ef282676:g:zZkAAOSwmNxacZY9&vxp=mtr

Yeah, the US one is exactly what you posted. 

I'm looking at the lower-mileage, 1992 one (I'm assuming it will fit my bike despite being a different part), and I'm wondering - the rear universal joint looks thinner and less beefy than my version, but I assume it's probably better than the more used 60k-mile one, right? 

Crazy Frog wrote:I just sent an Email to two of my contacts in France (Honest and reliable).
As soon as I get an answer, I will let you know.

Thanks!

Stefan did you or anybody else have the drive off the bike and was the uni removed from the drive at any time recently.

RicK G wrote:Stefan did you or anybody else have the drive off the bike and was the uni removed from the drive at any time recently.

I just had one of my contact in France contacting him. Let's see what's happen.
In fact I will start to advertise the service of this contact because he's a very reliable guy and seem to have very decent prices.

What I am trying to find out is  that if the rear uni was not snapped in correctly as the front part snaps in over the circlip the uni will slowly work forward and becomes decentralized on the shaft and wacko the party starts and ends very quickly.  I have suspected that this could have been the case on several similar failures over the years.
I fixed a K1100 of a guy that was passing through and had a similar failure, he had the shaft apart recently and didn't know to snap the shaft back in so was not sure if it had been done.
This is one of my pet theories.

Crazy Frog wrote:

RicK G wrote:Stefan did you or anybody else have the drive off the bike and was the uni removed from the drive at any time recently.

I just had one of my contact in France contacting him. Let's see what's happen.
In fact I will start to advertise the service of this contact because he's a very reliable guy and seem to have very decent prices.

Yeah, the contact has the exact part I'm looking for, and I'm buying it from him. Thanks again for contacting me with him!

RicK G wrote:What I am trying to find out is  that if the rear uni was not snapped in correctly as the front part snaps in over the circlip the uni will slowly work forward and becomes decentralized on the shaft and wacko the party starts and ends very quickly.  I have suspected that this could have been the case on several similar failures over the years.
I fixed a K1100 of a guy that was passing through and had a similar failure, he had the shaft apart recently and didn't know to snap the shaft back in so was not sure if it had been done.
This is one of my pet theories.

I have absolutely no idea if that was the case, I certainly didn't have the shaft out before. 


So parts 2 and 3 are (as I assumed) vital, and I'll be buying brand spanking new ones. 

Any other parts I might want to grab, or is that all?

I've also read something somewhere about lubing up the connection between the shaft and the transmission, could you please tell me more if you know?

Make sure the paralever bearings are ok. They are the small tapered roller bearings at the joint of the swingarm and the drive unit.

Hi all, I know this is an old thread but I have the Paralever all apart for the spline lube. However, after reading for hours I still can't find much information about reassembly. The Clymer manual for the K1100 doesn't even mention the drive shaft. I'm sure I've read a procedure somewhere in these pages. I'm not sure how to put in the shaft during reassembly and how to check it's clipped in at each end to prevent the catastrophic effects the OP experienced. I understand the phasing of the UJ's needs to be done and have used the paint spot system to align the sections.

Glyn wrote:The Clymer manual for the K1100 doesn't even mention the drive shaft.

My copy of Clymer does mention the Paralever driveshaft in its supplement but doesn't have a lot to say about it: however, Chris Harris has plenty to say about everything.

If it either end is not clipped then they pull right off.  If you want to get the front half to seat on the clip of the transmission output splines then what I do is get it installed on the splines loose at first and then use a block of wood and a mallet to bang it onto the clip.

IMany thanks for the replies. I've seen the Chris Harris video but can't see how he assembled the shaft. The BMW R type paralever is not identical to the K I100 although he does say the procedure is the same. Do you knock on the rear section when the swingarm has been fitted then knock in the front section
to the fd. Next mate the front section with the rear. I am imagining I'll not be able to see the sliding joints go together and not get the phasing correct. It's all apart at the moment waiting for the correct grease to arrive so I've not tried it yet.

What I do is install the front half and bang it on with my paint mark at the very top.

Then with the rear half already banged onto the final drive clip, I turn the final drive so that it's paint mark is also at the top. (You don't need to install lug bolts to turn the final drive like Chris Harris does. He must be a pussy if he has to do that to turn the final drive. )

Then I install the final drive, being careful not to let it turn so that the paint mark stays at the top.

On some bikes the little bridge in the bottom of the swing arm isn't in the right place to hold the front half of the shaft up. I stuff a rag in there to hold it up if that is the case and then pull the rag out once the splines of the two halves of the shaft start to mate.

That's brilliant Duck thank you. I did see the lug inside the swingarm and noticed some damage on it but had no idea what it was for.. I have a much better understanding of it now.

It was going back together so well until I detected the needle roller bearings each side of the FD were notchy to the point where the would stick. So, out with the computer and the search began. Am I really going to have to pay £140 for a new pair? Is there anyone out there who's found an alternative for the 10.32.17 taper bearing at a more modest sum?

Those factory bearings with plastic bearing races are garbage.

This guy's are more affordable than 140. Not sure if he ships outside of the US:
https://nushings.com/#/

There isn't plastic face bearings on the FD to swingarm joint on mine just needle bearings where the inner comes out. Is this the same bearings I need or are these items ito replace the swingarm to frame bearings which do have plastic faces on my 1100. You're certainly very right about the price, I'm happy to pay the cost of those if they're suitable. I'll try to find the original part numbers but couldn't find them online earlier.

Swing arm to trans are different bearings.

Swing arm to FD:

33172311091

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0536-USA-09-1992-89V2-BMW-K_1100_LT_0526,_0536_&diagId=33_0660

Spot on Duck thanks. Yes, they're item 11 in the parts list, I wish I could buy them for £34 ($43) here in the UK. They're listed at twice that price with a 3 week delivery wait. someone's making a few bucks on those for sure. That part number should help. I'm getting a bit worried about the other bearings in the drive unit now, I can't believe these have gone after just 24,000 miles.

Have you looked at https://www.motobins.co.uk/ ?

Try motorworks too.

Yep, Motobins do a pattern copy for less than £40 each, I owe you Duck. Appreciated.

I can't make up my mind to go for the Motobins "pattern" bearings or the Nushings from the States. Price is similar but I've not found out much about the Nushings. The company owner is very informative and eager to help. Does anyone have any experience with these replacement bearings?

Look here:
https://advrider.com/f/threads/bmw-paralever-pivot-bushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/

Thanks Duck, I've placed an order for them. I found a YouTube instal video. The pair worked out at £69 which is about the price of 1 original bearing. If the things I've read are true this is a superior fix.