Hi everyone

I have a question about the clutch arm at the rear of the gearbox.
How do I remove it?

Cheers

In a word Gently.  There are roller bearing races in there so remove the circlips  then support one of the tags on the gearbox so it doesn't bust off and use a pin punch to drive the shaft through. Take lots of care and use lots of WD40.

in most cases you can help yourself ....by taking the silencer off first ....it will allow good- better access  you can get a pin punch in pretty much from the rhs  footrest plate direction , but the pin may extend out and hit the exhaust with the muffler still on before it comes clear ...just what I noticed
hope it helps

Remove the circlip on the right end of the pivot rod.  Be careful as it is one of those parts that likes to fly off and get sucked into the black hole, common to most garages, that takes vehicle parts to another dimension via a hyperspatial confluence, never to be seen again. (This is similar to the physical phenomenon that removes individual socks from your clothes dryer.)

Then use a hammer and nail-set to pound the pivot rod out to the left.

Thanks for the replies.
The gearbox is on the workbench. I tried gently heating the clutch arm but I'm also concerned that I will break the tabs.
How do I avoid breaking the tabs?
Thanks

Have a look on this thread.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t6731-stuck-clutch-arm-pivot-pin

Hi everyone

I decided to give it another go. I was at an auto parts store purchasing a sun shade for the car when I decided to also purchase a nail punch set.
I was in the shed and decided to give it another go.
I placed the gearbox upside down with the clutch arm closest to me and used the largest siE nail punch and copious amount of wd40 to try and remove the pivot pin.
I was mindful of breaking the tabs but I also noticed the tabs aren't of any great length and decided to give the pin a few side taps . I noticed the gearbox moved with each tap and for me, it made me think that the tabs were not taking the full force of the taps.
I then gave the pin a few gentle taps with the nail punch and noticed some movement in the pin. I proceeded to tap it towards the left.
Until I realized the gearbox did not allow the pin to be completely removed.
I then tapped it from the left and it eventually came out.    
I have a few questions.
The pivot pin is a tight fit through the tabs. Is this correct?
The bearings are stuck in the clutch arm. Should I remove them or leave them there?
When I looked inside the hole where the pivot pin passes thru the clutch arm it isn't hollow. I can't see how installing a grease nipple would allow grease to reach the pivot pin and bearings. Am I missing something?
Anyone, that's it for today and thanks to those of you who replied.
Oh I forgot, what type of grease do I apply to the bearings?
Cheers

This might be useful:-

https://www.k100-forum.com/t3182-stubborn-clutch-arm-bearings

Paul.

How to remove this clutch arm, it may have already been covered.  Can I hell get it off after removing the circlips

It's corroded on in one of two ways:

- The pivot rod is corroded to the arm
- The pivot rod is corroded to the two supports on the gearbox.

At this point it's lots of heat and penetrating oil and tapping it from side to side. Unless you've managed to get it off, expect to write off the clutch boot.

Fitting a grease nipple to the clutch arm will help stop it from reoccurring.
Regards Martin.

You can replace the pivot shaft with a stainless steel M8 socket cap screw and nyloc nut - choose a size that has sufficient unthreaded shank for the job. It'll not be a precision size or hardened finish as would be 'required' for the needle roller bearings, but it'll certainly be a helluva improvement over the original shaft, and perfectly good enough for the job. No twiddly circlips either.

Suzi Q wrote:You can replace the pivot shaft with a stainless steel M8 socket cap screw and nyloc nut - choose a size that has sufficient unthreaded shank for the job. It'll not be a precision size or hardened finish as would be 'required' for the needle roller bearings, but it'll certainly be a helluva improvement over the original shaft, and perfectly good enough for the job. No twiddly circlips either.

This sounds like a good idea and there are lots of suitable bolts in my local hardware store that would do it. So now a question. That rod is removed to the left requiring the exhaust off. How would it be to insert the bolt from the right, so the nut is on the left and not need to remove the exhaust? The reason I ask is my 83 RS needs it done.

Here y'go



The bolt removes to the left. I expect it would clear a standard exhaust. 
The bracket on the torque arm front bolt is there because I got fed up of wrecking clutch boots every time I release the cable  .

Edit: Sorry Olaf, I misread your post. There isn't clearance for the bolt (or rod) to remove to the right. So it has to be to the left as you said. I forgot that it doesn't clear on the standard exhaust - sometimes I get things right on my builds!

If you release the silencer from the footrest hanger and push down on it, you will get just enough room to slide the pivot rod in/out and probably enough room to get an M8 in or out. BTDT when I had a pivot that was corroded in, would only move left as it freed off and I was far, far, far too lazy to take the silencer off again.