My k75 alternator has packed in. I have a spare k1100 one here. It’ll fit physically. Aside from the different B and D posts is there any reason I shouldn’t use it?

You need to change the cup and vane with monkey nuts or the bearing behind the cup gets lateral load and packs up.

Rick G wrote:You need to change the cup and vane with monkey nuts or the bearing behind the cup gets lateral load and packs up.

Super info. Thanks Rick.

88 wrote:My k75 alternator has packed in. I have a spare k1100 one here. It’ll fit physically. Aside from the different B and D posts is there any reason I shouldn’t use it?

What are B and D posts? Bondage and discipline?

If it's an early 32 amp K1100LT then it is the same part as the K75. If it is the later 50 amp alternator then it already has the correct cup - part 12312305329. The monkey nuts are the same for 32 amp and 50 amp alternators - part 12311464877.

88 wrote:

Rick G wrote:You need to change the cup and vane with monkey nuts or the bearing behind the cup gets lateral load and packs up.

Super info. Thanks Rick.

Apart from this and changing the two-pin plug for a ring terminal and a spade terminal, it's a drop-fit. Shame it doesn't get cold enough here to make use of all that extra power!

Dai wrote:

88 wrote:

Rick G wrote:You need to change the cup and vane with monkey nuts or the bearing behind the cup gets lateral load and packs up.

Super info. Thanks Rick.

Apart from this and changing the two-pin plug for a ring terminal and a spade terminal, it's a drop-fit. Shame it doesn't get cold enough here to make use of all that extra power!

You need it if you have 55W aux lights!

duck wrote:

Dai wrote:

88 wrote:
Super info. Thanks Rick.

Apart from this and changing the two-pin plug for a ring terminal and a spade terminal, it's a drop-fit. Shame it doesn't get cold enough here to make use of all that extra power!

You need it if you have 55W aux lights!

My new RS has twin H4 headlights. I am planning to upgrade these to 160/130W bulbs but as it has only the basic 84 electrics no heated grips or electric heated gear etc etc. I am debating if I will get by. 35Ah gives 420W. I think the upgraded lights will also run the total electrical load close to 420W but it depends on what the fuel pump and ignition system actually use. At the moment the two 65W dont cause any issue.

duck wrote:
You need it if you have 55W aux lights!

Thankfully I’m all LED up front. 

https://i.servimg.com/u/f50/16/81/84/59/image10.jpg

Unfortunately the part no is rubbed off. Can you tell from the photos which one I have? 

https://i.servimg.com/u/f50/16/81/84/59/image10.jpg

(On the right, what came out is on the left.)

By jingo! I have the big Kahuna 

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:My new RS has twin H4 headlights. I am planning to upgrade these to 160/130W bulbs but as it has only the basic 84 electrics no heated grips or electric heated gear etc etc. I am debating if I will get by. 35Ah gives 420W. I think the upgraded lights will also run the total electrical load close to 420W but it depends on what the fuel pump and ignition system actually use. At the moment the two 65W dont cause any issue.

Don't do it. The laws of physics state that the closer to the wattage limit you get, the more the voltage will start to drop off. It's not a 1:1 thing because there's heat-, friction- and magnetic- induced losses to take account of. Either drop a 50amp alternator in there or if you're feeling adventurous, convert the 50amp alternator to a 60amp one using the back of an R1200 alternator. It gets a tight fit if you do that...   but it does go in.

What is the main purpose of the high wattage driving lights?  Do you do a lot of high speed riding at night?  Conspicuity in daylight? 

LED's are a really good way to be seen in daylight without using a lot of current.  I have been equipping all my bikes for the past 10 years with a pair of inexpensive($25 the pair) 10watt LED driving lights that each draws just under one ampere of current.  They have a brightness that is the equal of a welding arc, and I have been told that they can easily be seen and attract the eye from over two miles away in bright sunlight. 




At night they add a fair bit of extra illumination downrange, which is handy for my nighttime riding in the deer country where  I live  They certainly don't replace daylight, but help me see down the road and the scatter helps see what is lurking in the brush on the side of the road

I agree. LEDs for being seen. I use a high output DRL and LED driving lights for that. 

I use a high output CREE main lamp for night riding 

I have 70W orange lights on my forks. They really stand out in traffic due to the different color but are aimed properly so they don't blind oncoming traffic at night. They make lanesplitting in CA very easy because people can't help but notice them in their rear view mirrors due to the weird orange color.

Up by the mirrors on several of my bikes I have Hella Micro DE lights that I converted to 35W HID. They put out enough light to land an airplane and make it close to daylight at night. The amount of light they put out is probably very illegal but I have them tied into my high beam and am very careful not use them when there's any oncoming traffic. Been running them for 10+ years without getting caught.