Hi all been chasing a miss fire that got worse to the point the bike would cut out but fire up once cooled down. Unmistakable symptoms of hall sensor packing up. I've ordered and fitted to the plate  two CYHME56C.
My question is the cable colour of the red black and green is the same configuration as the orginal stock halls ?? Don't fancy smoke bang and no Genie ........

A genie-less bang is the very definition of disappointment.

If you scroll through this Chen Yang data sheet you'll find its wires labeled on the last page; you can then compare them to the labels in the troubleshooting guide here.

Laitch wrote:A genie-less bang is the very definition of disappointment.

If you scroll through this Chen Yang data sheet you'll find its wires labeled on the last page; you can then compare them to the labels in the troubleshooting guide here.

Thanks Laitch I'm confident now after cross references between new and old. Just the inner me thinking how wrong it seems hooking up the reds to the k100 black cable

Take a look at this post and some following it for further clarification.

Just fired the old girl up with a nice smooth tick over. The test comes on a run, fingers crossed the problem has done one

Took a pic before the snip always handy .....looking at your last post I could have made a possible mistake. I've followed my pic and she fired up so it's gotta be right

well done, Jibe

Test ride done seemed better but unfortunately is still present looks like the tools need to come out again, anybody had a similar problem after replacing HEF's and still misbehaving??? I'm fairly sure it's electrical as bike performs spot on before it warms up.
Checked coolant temp cold reading on both sides good had another maf tried that the same thing. New NGK leads and plugs, coils tested and seem to be good. Checked earth's all at 0.5 ohms also new injectors. I've got no air leaks but have noticed a blow at the manifold to down pipe but I don't think that would cause my problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

What exactly is the misbehavior, Jibe?

Issues on heating up in my book would likely relate to coils and plug leads and also possibly plugs. Bear in mind one normally runs tests on coils when the coils are cold. In the days of yore on 70s cars I had not infrequent falures on coils due and distributor caps due to cracking and tracking.

See if you can use a heat test [gloved hand] to determine if you can isolate a faulty cylinder [or two]. Hall sensor fault does not affect a single cylinder but two, either 1/4 or 2/3. Same for coils.

I have not read all the posts but a tight valve will on heating up expand and may then not close fully resulting in loss of compression in its cylinder giving a misfire. I would start at the exhaust valve clearance in the cylinder with the slight blow.

One component that can be affected by heat is the ICU under the headstock.. . . .

Really thought I would have cracked it with the hall sensors what with new ht leads and plugs. It's starts missing when it warms up and get worse all most violent, the weather was extremely warm when it cut out before changing the halls and started up once cooled. As for heat checking cylinders, quite honestly I don't expect to feel any difference as it clears quickly and back to judder again down the road this is at any rev range past idle. My next plan is to go through all connections and if still the same think about replacing the icu ..... intermittent faults are a pain in the @rse

Hi Jibe, I had a similar problem baffled me and my mates. Krazy Frog suggested the ICU, fitted a S/H unit solved the problem, the little buggers are responsible for all sorts annoying cockups.

Thanks for the advice I will check over the bike soon as I get time and look to enquire on a replacement ICU. These things are set to challenge us and part and parcel of keeping a little bit of history on the road

Jibe wrote:Thanks for the advice I will check over the bike soon as I get time and look to enquire on a replacement ICU. These things are set to challenge us and part and parcel of keeping a little bit of history on the road

The reason I mentioned the ICU is that I had a similar issue on my K100LT and this was the cause. Unfortunately running tests does not work because it was failing under heat and most tests done cold wont identify that.

Bite the bullet and replace the ICU, trouble is S/H is still years old, we are for ever gonna chase problems but that's part of the fun well sometimes.......

Getting the hump now ....replaced hall sensors, replaced icu replaced maf new plugs and leads tried another set of coils new ev14 injectors.
Earth's are all good and no obvious air leaks. I think i can rule out ignition all but timing the bike pulls hard right up to the red line when cold. Temp sensor appears to give correct resistances. Ecu plug looks clean. I'm pulling my hair out here any ideas cos I'm officially running out of them

Jibe wrote: Temp sensor appears to give correct resistances.

What are the readings that you are getting?

The bike has been out for a test run (failed) in the shed cooled down at the sensor was reading 1.6k ran the bike for about 8 minutes I got 420 ohms. I have to be honest I only checked cold resistance before which was at 2.5k

Just ran it hot 170 ohms fan never cut in. It might be as simply that's its over heating will take a look at the fan relay and wiring tomorrow

What year  and model K?  

(It helps others help you if you put that in your user profile signature.)

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Issues on heating up in my book would likely relate to coils.

I've seen this before on an 85 K100 that ran crappy when it heated up. Swapped in a different pair of coils and the problem went away.

Jibe wrote:Just ran it hot 170 ohms fan never cut in. It might be as simply that's its over heating will take a look at the fan relay and wiring tomorrow

Is the temp light in the cluster coming on? That should happen at around 144 ohms or lower. (111 degrees C)

When it gets even hotter (120 C) then the radiator cap should blow. (Just like a car does.)

To test if your cluster temp bulb is working you can ground Pin A3 of the temp relay socket and turn the ignition on. (Violet/black wire.)

Well I fired it up today it ran up and the fan kicked in OK. Just can't understand what's going on new plugs leads s/h icu, coils new halls maf also only thing I've not replaced is the ecu. I thinking it's fueling now. The tank is spotless inside with a newish pump and filter along with the coolant sensor. When's its cold it's right on the money just can't understand what's going on I'm at a total loss at the moment any ideas people as I'm stuck ..........