Hi All
I bought my K100 in 1985, a 1983 K100 a very early one into the UK.
It has been all over France and the UK and now resides in semi retirement in NZ.
It was laid up for a while when I was recovering from knee surgery, fuel went bad and rotted all the rubbers in the tank and wrecked the fuel pump.
Back on the road now as a sunshine superbike with new break seal kits, all oils, fuel pump and filters etc.

Got a couple little niggles crept in,
1) Speedo works fine but the trip meter has stopped working...any ideas?
2) Oil light comes on initially and will flicker on and off for a few seconds, but stays off during riding? any ideas?

Cheers
Mike

Hi Mike welkome to the Knuthaus. Speedo id likely a crumbled plastic gear which with a forum search you will find where they are available and the oil switch is probably clogged with crud. They can be cleaned but I have had a lot more success with new ones. The oil switch is a bit of a special but once again a search of the forum will reveal the correct thread.

Welcome! How many miles on your bike?

The tripmeter gears are made of old cheddar cheese and it isn't unusual for some of the teeth to break off. Gear sets are available and cost about $80US.

If the oil pressure light bothers you, try replacing the switch first before going into the pump. It might not hurt to pull the oil pan and check the pickup tube and to make sure the filter doesn't have two gaskets.

Welcome Mike


2; the seal in the engine wich holds the filter could be end of life.

It's number 22;

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0503-EUR-08-1985-K589-BMW-K_100_RS_83_0502,0503,0513_&diagId=11_1818

Does Hailwood know you've appropriated his name? 

I have an 83 K100, 2 questions:

1: Are you using a 5 or 10 oil in it? Mind does not like ultra thin oil. Sounds possible because as soon as you rev it you have oil pressure. Mind did exactly that, last oil change I gave it 20w50 for a trip to Spain.
2: The oil sensor wire is badly placed and even the sensor itself suffers. Mine had been shorting out in rain. 


I suspect one or other ahead of the oil pump, but the pick up check that's been advised is easy to do.

Another occasional issue is incorrect seating of the filter can lead to reduced or even no oil pressure if the filter is not correctly tightened.

brickrider2 wrote:Does Hailwood know you've appropriated his name? 

Its a tribute to the Mike Hailwood a hero along with Joey Dunlop

Point-Seven-five wrote:Welcome!  How many miles on your bike?  

The tripmeter gears are made of old cheddar cheese and it isn't unusual for some of the teeth to break off.  Gear sets are available and cost about $80US.  

If the oil pressure light bothers you, try replacing the switch first before going into the pump.  It might not hurt to pull the oil pan and check the pickup tube and to make sure the filter doesn't have two gaskets.

Hi 85,000 miles, sump never been off.
Had the oil pump rebuilt when the seal went between the coolant side and the oil side causing oil to mix with coolant.
Pump rebuild, full coolant/radiator flush, engin oil flushing oil changed twice then 20/50 new oil and filter

Arlina wrote:Welcome Mike


2; the seal in the engine wich holds the filter could be end of life.

It's number 22;

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0503-EUR-08-1985-K589-BMW-K_100_RS_83_0502,0503,0513_&diagId=11_1818

I did have the oil/coolant pump rebuilt and the seal between the two had failed causing oil and coolant mixing.
Cheers
Mike

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I have an 83 K100, 2 questions:

1: Are you using a 5 or 10 oil in it? Mind does not like ultra thin oil. Sounds possible because as soon as you rev it you have oil pressure. Mind did exactly that, last oil change I gave it 20w50 for a trip to Spain.
2: The oil sensor wire is badly placed and even the sensor itself suffers. Mine had been shorting out in rain. 


I suspect one or other ahead of the oil pump, but the pick up check that's been advised is easy to do.

Another occasional issue is incorrect seating of the filter can lead to reduced or even no oil pressure if the filter is not correctly tightened.

Hi
I am run 20/50 in the bike and have always used good quality oil.  The light flickers and goes out after about 30 seconds from starting, then is fine for the rest of the ride.

I will look at cleaning the pickup gauze and cleaning the oil pressure switch, question....do you have to drain the oil to clean the switch?
Cheers
Mike

I wouldn't take the switch out. Any problem down there is likely to be corrosion on the terminals (wire and switch), especially if the boot is missing or split. If you decide to change the switch, you don't need to drain the oil. When cold the oil barely squeezes out through the hole. Okay, so I exaggerate, but you'll only lose a few cc's. If the wire is badly corroded at the female terminal there's a large chance that the PVC sheathing is also perished (hard and ready to break). Replacing the wire is, believe it or not, relatively easy but you'll need to change the connectors where it joins the main loom because the OEM is not easily available. I've used so-called 'Japanese' crimp connectors before now.

To thread a new wire, first check the pump housing from underneath and find the tunnel in the casting where the wire comes through, then take the T-cover off the HES housing on the front of the engine. Pull the old wire out. Start by pushing the new wire down through the pump housing; if you're very lucky it will slide out the bottom fairly quickly. If you're not, a pair of slim long-nose pliers and a torch are a great help to work inside the pump housing. Slide the boot onto the wire, then crimp on the female terminal and attach it to the switch. That'll stop you accidently pulling the new wire out. Now run it up through the channel next to the HES plate and replace the T-cover. Crimp new terminals into the main loom and you're done.

It probably isn't your problem, but salt and dirt can get conductive when wet, and allow enough current flow to light up the oil pressure light. I know this because a couple of my bikes used to light up the oil light whenever I rode in heavy rain.

Pull the rubber cover off the switch and clean the switch and the inside of the cover well with a toothbrush and lots of window cleaner. Let it dry and put a little electrical grease on it before you put the cover back on. That switch is in one of the nastiest places on the bike and needs a little love once in a while if you ride in the rain.

Ref the oil pressure light, check that the grounding is OK. I had the oil light fail because of that.

Point-Seven-five wrote:It probably isn't your problem, but salt and dirt can get conductive when wet, and allow enough current flow to light up the oil pressure light.  I know this because a couple of my bikes used to light up the oil light whenever I rode in heavy rain.

Pull the rubber cover off the switch and clean the switch and the inside of the cover well with a toothbrush and lots of window cleaner.  Let it dry and put a little electrical grease on it before you put the cover back on.  That switch is in one of the nastiest places on the bike and needs a little love once in a while if you ride in the rain.

That's what I had in mind.

can a lower idle cause this?
same result if you start the bike with full choke/advance?

+1 to all
plastic gears...

+1 comments by point seven five

Mike-the-bike wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:Welcome!  How many miles on your bike?  

The tripmeter gears are made of old cheddar cheese and it isn't unusual for some of the teeth to break off.  Gear sets are available and cost about $80US.  

If the oil pressure light bothers you, try replacing the switch first before going into the pump.  It might not hurt to pull the oil pan and check the pickup tube and to make sure the filter doesn't have two gaskets.

Hi 85,000 miles, sump never been off.
Had the oil pump rebuilt when the seal went between the coolant side and the oil side causing oil to mix with coolant.
Pump rebuild, full coolant/radiator flush, engin oil flushing oil changed twice then 20/50 new oil and filter

I had a spare speedo pod and swapped with that, however those gears have now stripped so I have two speedos with no odometer, where can you get the gear sets?  $80 US seems rather steep for a couple tiny plastic gears though.

Sees StandardK's post on gear replacement https://www.k100-forum.com/t17741-k1100-odometer-gears-metric-miles
Regards Martin.