I have just acquired an RS in boxes. Looking through the forum I see that the RS fairing with RT bars has been used by others. I have leading links on my RT which are very light steering with the RT bars just wondering what my options might be. (Purely cosmetic but the RS has matching bodywork: fairing, tank, and seat/tail - which my RT does not...)
Anyone use RS bars with a chair?

I've got a wheelchair but it's not a K.....

Arlina wrote:I've got a wheelchair but it's not a K.....

Mate, you’re not helping 

I fixed a K11 with sidecar for someone, and rode it. Felt the need for the LT bars.
It was the first time I rode a K with sidecar, never seen a K sidecar with RS bard in Holland.

Arlina wrote:I fixed a K11 with sidecar for someone, and rode it. Felt the need for the LT bars.
It was the first time I rode a K with sidecar, never seen a K sidecar with RS bard in Holland.

Thanks A. Thought that might be the case. I might see how the RT Bars work with the RS fairing. One (distant) thought I have is to fit a Right hand chair and register it in mainland Europe.

Why a RHC?
Wanna live on the mainland?

Arlina wrote:Why a RHC?
Wanna live on the mainland?

Family might have a problem with that, but I have friends in Cadiz and Rhodes and have been thinking of a trip (but not on a LHC).

"Wanna live on the mainland?"

Yes please. 
Soon.

Seems legit....

tinyspuds wrote:
Anyone use RS bars with a chair?

Yes, I do - K100RS 4-valver from 1991. However, my chair is a Flexit.

If you plan to register a sidecar in mainland Europe, don't expect to do it in France. With a K, it will be impossible, unless you ask a maker to do it, providing its own sidecar and chassis. It costs around 15000€...
It seems to be the same problem in Spain, Germany, Italy.
Belgium could be the solution: adding a sidecar does not involves registering, it's like adding a top case or a windshield.
I love Belgium.

jbt wrote:If you plan to register a sidecar in mainland Europe, don't expect to do it in France. With a K, it will be impossible, unless you ask a maker to do it, providing its own sidecar and chassis. It costs around 15000€...
It seems to be the same problem in Spain, Germany, Italy.
Belgium could be the solution: adding a sidecar does not involves registering, it's like adding a top case or a windshield.
I love Belgium.

Thanks, I love Belgium too now. Just a bit of an ’out there’ idea atm I’d like to do the trip and looking for ways but Covid looks like it might be a bit too out there for a while. In the meantime I have boxes full of an RS jigsaw puzzle that starts with a tank full of 4 year old gas and no fuel cap key, so I’ll just start working through the assembly issues and see how things look going forward. I have another K, no complaints from me

Not a K bike, but my 95 R100RT with a sidecar had the RT bars and a leading link front end. It worked well so I can't see why it wouldn't work on a K bike, the only issue being the clearance with the RT bars and the RS fairing. Likely somebody will come along with that set up, if not you'll have to try it. The RT bars are pulled back further so there may be enough clearance.
You likely won't be able to go lock to lock but then you can't do that with RT bars and a RT fairing.

cycleman wrote:
You likely won't be able to go lock to lock but then you can't do that with RT bars and a RT fairing.

since when ? 

properly setup , no issue here ....ever !

but a few have setup wider bars on an rs setup , with bar risers and setback ,  i had an issue with wide bars and the master cylinder hitting the lower rs screen - fairing part , so shortened the master cylinder reserve reservoir height some what , seems to work well    full lock , either way , no issues

tinyspuds wrote:

jbt wrote:If you plan to register a sidecar in mainland Europe, don't expect to do it in France. With a K, it will be impossible, unless you ask a maker to do it, providing its own sidecar and chassis. It costs around 15000€...
It seems to be the same problem in Spain, Germany, Italy.
Belgium could be the solution: adding a sidecar does not involves registering, it's like adding a top case or a windshield.
I love Belgium.

Thanks, I love Belgium too now. Just a bit of an ’out there’ idea atm I’d like to do the trip and looking for ways but Covid looks like it might be a bit too out there for a while. In the meantime I have boxes full of an RS jigsaw puzzle that starts with a tank full of 4 year old gas and no fuel cap key, so I’ll just start working through the assembly issues and see how things look going forward. I have another K, no complaints from me

For the missing gas tank cap key....no parts needed!!

https://www.k100-forum.com/t9469-open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:

For the missing gas tank cap key....no parts needed!!

https://www.k100-forum.com/t9469-open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock

Thanks Olaf, yup my first job after I make some space to organise everything (1st job  after I change the B/pads on Mrs Spuds’ car).

Already did this mod on my RT, ‘excited’ about what I’ll find inside.

Hi tinyspuds, I've been using RS bars on my RS outfit for a mere 32 years without feeling the need for anything wider, if I were you I'd try the RS bars before going to the trouble of changing them.

Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:Hi tinyspuds, I've been using RS bars on my RS outfit for a mere 32 years without feeling the need for anything wider, if I were you I'd try the RS bars before going to the trouble of changing them.

Paul.

Thanks Paul. Stu

I ran the wider RS bars (16v/1100RS) mounted on barbacks for quite a few years, they were fine.  I now have RT/LT bars fitted and it is better/less effort. Both with leading links fitted.

Al

Thanks Al.

charlie99 wrote:

cycleman wrote:
You likely won't be able to go lock to lock but then you can't do that with RT bars and a RT fairing.

since when ? 

properly setup , no issue here ....ever !

but a few have setup wider bars on an rs setup , with bar risers and setback ,  i had an issue with wide bars and the master cylinder hitting the lower rs screen - fairing part , so shortened the master cylinder reserve reservoir height some what , seems to work well    full lock , either way , no issues

Hi Charlie, I know you’re right (it’s a K!). Nonetheless, I can’t get full lock in either direction on mine. I think over 37 years the cabling, both bowden and electrical - esp. on the right side - has just got knitted into a lump that restricts the free movement of each component. I have certainly contributed to this with the extra kit I have added into the fairing. I’m going to tackle this as my last planned lockdown maintenance. I’ve seen some pics here and there but nothing that shows what should, and should not be routed through the metal arc between the two instrument cluster bolts. ATM my clutch cable goes through this, which is just plain wrong, as turning the bars right sets up a scissor action between the mount and the fairing. I will fix this too but do you or anyone have clear pics of the whole OEM arrangement of cables through the forks and also the routes thru the plastic water barriers on each side of the headstock? Sometimes Elbow Grease just won’t do it. Cheers.

ill try and post clear pics for you in the coming days 

for both rt and rs versions ?

Thanks Charlie, nice one. RT please Don’t bust a gut over it, I keep having to come in to warm up anyway.

hope this helps 

dont mind the corrosion and dirt , poor old Gerty needs a bit of tlc , perhaps later this year ?

Thanks Charlie, perfect.
The first thing I notice is that you haven’t kept the plastic triangles that screw into the headstock. They are defo part of my problem in that they concentrate the cable mass into that small outlet on each side. I’ve compounded that by routing heavily insulated cables for aftermarket satnav and heated grips thru the right side. 
You also seem to have more cable slack around the headstock than I do, I’ll have a go at relaxing mine a little. I suspect mine is suffering a bit from the sub frame and leading link install which was done by a sidecar pro (but not neccessarily a K pro). There’s a case for disconnecting everything and refitting properly but for me the cons of that outweigh the pros. 
I assumed the plastic covers were water protection for the under tank electrics, so I’ll have a think about those too and keep tweaking. 
Thanks again, Stu.

the around headstock covers were only removed recently , well sort of recently and everything you see gets held back under those covers  and fits well 

yes , most of the electrics go via the left hand side route 
most important is to get the clutch cable into the nick on top of the radiator  to the right of  the frame to radiator mounting bolt 


cheers

Here's a photo of an RT from the front. I do think the clutch cable goes through the arch, it's the cable with the white writing in it. The wires outside the arch are to the handlebars. All the others go through the arch I think,  at least on this one. 

Another pic. 

That’s interesting DS thanks. I’ll look again at mine as that route does look ‘natural’ but, of course, doesn’t have the fairing spider- which is what I’m fouling. 
Also, I’ve never found a way to use the ‘over the airbox’ clutch cable route from right to left that is as light as the ‘left side only’ route I use.
Maybe I’ll re visit that as I have pretty much everything else stripped out.

It goes in between the air box and the plenum chamber.


Not sure if your saying you have an RS with an RT handlebar, that might mean the cables are short.

How they sneak past behind the bracket near the filler cap area. 

Apologies for the confusion. I have an RT with RT bars and cables. Thanks for the pix.