Since I got my K bike, I have had issues that are documented elsewhere on this site. 
Most of the issues are Electrical, so I have decided to rewire the bike, I have bought an M-Unit Blue and I have an M-lock to replace the Ignition key. I am just trying to decide on how many switches I need, due to the problems with the Neutral and Gear indicator on a rewire, I am looking at using the OEM gear indicator. I will make a box to hold the circuitboard and put a clear lens over the display to keep it waterproof. I have auxiliary spotlights wire to a switch on the handlebars, I am looking at using the Hazard switch to power the lights as the M-unit handles the hazard lights. I am thinking about using the current switch as a kill switch similar to the way a car can have power cut to the ignition circuit. I don't want to chop or customise the bike other than to update the electrics. I am buying the parts as funds become available, so this will take some time. I will also replace the dash with a Koso unit. Any sensible ideas are welcome otherwise I will keep you all updated with the progress with photos of the before during and after.

My own top two tips:

Study the K wiring diagram 'til you're completely familiar with it. Yep there'a a lot of wires, but none of the individual circuits are complicated if you break it down.

If it suits, lose the parking-light-via-the-ignition-key circuit completely. It's a heck of a lot of wiring and complication and no-one in the history of biking has ever needed to leave the parking lights on with the bike unattended.

chris846 wrote:If it suits, lose the parking-light-via-the-ignition-key circuit completely. It's a heck of a lot of wiring and complication and no-one in the history of biking has ever needed to leave the parking lights on with the bike unattended.

What he said. The parking light thing is also a good way to inadvertently run down your battery if you accidentally pull the key out in that position and walk away. DAMHIK

I have been studying the wiring diagram since I got the bike, the original wiring was a mess and needed work to rectify some Gremlins.

I have a couple of wiring looms and I have stripped one down removing some unnecessary wires, Do these remaining wires look right? 
One is the wiring for the Gear indicator.
One is from the Alternator to the Battery and starter relay and charge light. 
One is from the Ignition module and one I am not sure about.

The black rectangular one is for the brake, tail and rear turn lights. It mounts to the back of the black "wedge" under the tail cowl.

Today I decided to get started on the rewiring, I have most of the parts needed. I took the fairing off and found the mounting bracket is moving around slightly, it may also be bent.
I needed to replace the wires to the Lunchbox.

When I bought the bike I had to reconnect these wires to get the speedometer to work and the oil light to stay off.
I bought some new plugs and new wiring to replace these, I also found that there was a wiring fault under the tank, the previous owner had spent almost £200, to diagnose a fault, they only snipped a write for the high / low beam flasher. I found that they had not correctly replaced the wiring, I repaired the wiring and everything was working.


You can see the temporary repairs that got the bike running. As I found the cause for the underlying faults and got them fixed I found that the bike needs a complete rewire.

I took everything apart but left it on the motorcycle, as I am only removing the wires that I have for replacement. I am in the middle of removing the unwanted wiring.

I removed all the relays that I know will be replaced by the M-unit and I am tracing the wiring to the starter relay and the Temperature sensing switch unit, As these will remain in the circuit. 

I kept the Injection wiring connected to everything on the bike and am Tracing all the plugs for the tank and Gear selector. I want to keep the bike as original looking as possible, as I removed the rear of the bike I found the rear frame needs some love.

I need to find some rust remover and primer to save the frame.

That's not as bad as it looks. Mostly surface rust. The best approach is to remove the rust using an angle grinder with a coarse sanding disc followed by a drill with a wire wheel to get the parts the grinder couldn't, then coat with KureRust or similar, followed by an enamel topcoat. Don't use Hammershite because it won't last under there.

What is nasty - and is going to take time, effort and a welder - are the two brackets that hold the mudguard and z-bars on at the rear. They're toast. You're going to have to cut them off and make new ones. This is what I did:

Made four pieces instead of two

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020387m.jpg

Used the mudguard clamp as a spacer

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020388m.jpg

Welded them on

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020391m.jpg

Used a piece of threaded bar to locate the z-bar brackets and pulled them up tight to the new mudguard brackets with tywraps

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020395m.jpg

Job done, still in use

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020397m.jpg

I had 25mm x 3mm flat bar to hand, but 25mm x 2mm will do just as well.

KureRust

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020402m.jpg

followed by brushed enamel

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/lfbfix/p1020407m.jpg

I have refitted the top fairing with the cleaned headlight and run the new wiring wiring, I have also replaced the wiring for the oil warning light. I had to drill out the old mounts for the battery box, so I carefully weakened the dome head then used a chisel to break the heads off.
I also found that the alternator wiring was full of the green crusties so I was not getting an ideal charge when at high speeds, I had difficulty pulling the plug off but as I have a couple of spares, I ordered an alternator plug off eBay, it had tree terminals but as I only needed the large connectors, I now have new wiring for that as well. I forgot my camera, my phone battery died, I will take some more update photos next time I am working in the garage.
This is how the plugs were when I bought the bike.