I've been told the 711 Rpm figure but I don't know if K75's are different but my starter will engage under 1000 Rpm. I've got a couple of mates with K100's coming over today if I remember I'll try them.
Regards Martin.

Thing about the Hall sensors is there are two and they are independent like the coils and your issue affects all 4 cylinders......unless something has happened to let water or into the area behind the T cover and affect both of them at the same time.

MartinW wrote:I've been told the 711 Rpm figure but I don't know if K75's are different but my starter will engage under 1000 Rpm. I've got a couple of mates with K100's coming over today if I remember I'll try them.
Regards Martin.

It does run on mine too if I hit the button while the engine is running but makes no difference to the running of the engine.

"the ignition control unit will not activate the starter relay without the presence of... >700RPM"

A bike that's idling doesn't need the starter relay to be activated.

Martin's idea is a quick easy way to verify if it's running rich, or lean.

I've done this test on all five of my bricks (one a K75) at 1000rpm, and luckily the idle speed remains basically the same on all of them.

Okay, I think I have it sorted.  Last week I bought a set of used OEM fuel injectors on the chance that the set of new ChiCom fuel injectors I bought for the rebuild didn't flow the correct amount of fuel. Today the used injectors arrived.

I came to the conclusion that the ChiCom injectors were not right based on not being able to find fault with any other part of the engine control system.  Water temperature, air temperature, air flow, Hall Sensors, coils, plug wires, grounds, connectors, were all working properly.  Yet, the engine ran way rich, even with the high altitude plug installed to attempt to lean out the mixture a little.  Plugs were loading up with large amounts of carbon after only running for 15 minutes.

Checking the ads for ChiCom injectors I noticed that a single injector was claimed to replace as many as 8 different Bosch part numbers!  Researching the flow rates and specs for these numbers reveals as much as a 5-10% difference in flow.  Definitely enough to mess up the mixture.  I also noticed that the coil resistance was 12.8 ohms, not the 16 ohms of the Bosch.

So I checked the injectors I bought.  Out of 6 I found 4 good ones.  After blowing some cleaner through them and replacing the old o-rings I installed them along with a set of new spark plugs.  Bike fired almost instantly and ran smooth.  I let the engine warm up, did a throttle body balance and shut it down.  Pulled a plug and found that it was a nice grayish tan color, with no carbon fouling.  I never got a plug reading that clean with the other injectors.

One last test is to see if the engine starts tomorrow morning after sitting all night.

Best of luck with the bike tomorrow and the coming riding season

I was going to suggest (seeing you have three bikes and assuming 2 of them work), swap bits off a working bike onto the SE until you get success. A bit trite and unscientific but at least these parts are known to work.

GF

GF Wollongong wrote:Best of luck with the bike tomorrow and the coming riding season

I was going to suggest (seeing you have three bikes and assuming 2 of them work), swap bits off a working bike onto the SE until you get success. A bit trite and unscientific but at least these parts are known to work.

GF

Normally, swapping parts is a process to be discouraged. However, if you already have parts available to try, the equation becomes different. If you have to buy the parts, it’s a whole different ball game. Usually expensive. 
Swap bits one at a time, though, otherwise you don’t know which one made the difference. 

Bill

I must admit I tend to swap out parts too, but as said its on the basis that I already have the part in my shed or off another K. Saves a lot of time testing and its a no cost solution. I will put the 'faulty' or suspect part back in the shed and at a later date test it out in another bike to see if it does show faulty or good. Its always worth buying spares too at opportunistic prices to have available rather than aiting until you need them.

Fired right up this morning.  Only ran it a couple seconds.  Will do a couple more starts, letting it warm to operating temperature.  Then I am going to pull the plugs to see if they're carbon fouled.

When I balanced the throttle bodies yesterday I noticed that there is an imbalance between the needle position on cylinder #4 and the others.  With #4 out 1 1/2 turns, the others all need to be about 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 turns out to balance with it.  Bike idles nice and smooth with good throttle response.  I think I need to check the hose to the fuel pressure regulator for leaks.  Will have to remove the airbox again.  Crap!

About swapping parts, I don't like swapping stuff unless it tests bad.  The only thing I couldn't swap was the ECU and ICU.  My other bikes don't have the right units.  One has a three cylinder Jetronic and the other has a Motronic. 

One thing I noticed was that the resistance readings for the airflow sensor on Bert's troubleshooting article can't be taken from the Jetronic connector.  There is power wiring to the Airflow sensor that puts other components in parallel with the elements in the sensor that screw up the readings making you think the sensor is bad.  Bert's resistance values need to be measured at the airflow body connector with the harness disconnected.  I didn't see that mentioned in the troubleshooting guide.