I bought a 85 k100 that i'm trying to get in good running condition.
What I know about the bike.
The last owner had it sitting outside for at least two years with out running it.
The wiring was chewed up from mice.

When i got I repaired the wiring and got it running, but there is a problem it smokes.
Now I know that they smoke on start up when stored on the side stand.
I have ran it up to operating temp for 10 minutes multiple times but it still smokes.
When i rev it up to 3 to 4k it still smokes. The smoke is a dark grey blue color.

Any suggestions?

Hello Je, did you drive bike on the open road for half an hour?

No i did not. The bike is not currently registered. I was waiting to get it running good before going through the hassle and expense of registering it.

je85 wrote:No i did not. The bike is not currently registered. I was waiting to get it running good before going through the hassle and expense of registering it.

I dont know what is weather like in your area, but sometimes here I had a lot of smoke after starting bike (moisture humidity), for 15 - 20 minutes. OK it was white smoke, not grey blue. Can you smell burned oil?

If the bike has not ran for a while and you had a hard time to start it (trying repetitively without success), it could smoke for a while.
The only way to get rid of the smoke will be to go on the road and have the engine running at high rev.
If the bike was hard to start you may want to check if not any fuel leaked in the engine oil.

CF

When I first tried to start, it took a few cranks to prime the lines and then fired. The oil did not have any fuel in it. Before starting it I cleaned the tank of old fuel.
I just checked the valve clearance and it was within spec.

Doubt if its anything serious.
Just needs a good 'redding out' up the road.
Incidentally, its not parking on the sidestand that causes smoking on the earlier models.
When you stop, let the engine tick over for about 8-10 seconds while upright. Switch off and park on the sidestand or centre stand.
Do that and it will never smoke again.

Are you absolutely suer that it has the right type of clean oil in the crankcase AND that when shut off and sitting for a while to settle, up on the center stand that you can verify absolutely that you can see a verifiable level of motor oil across the center line (tiny red dot) of the viewing sight glass on the right side?
A lot of restros here have been known to have such a cloudy window that the owner can't actually see the level properly. It's oh so easy to have the oil too full.
It's going to be fine. As soon as it's safe to do so, RUN the snot out of it.

The oil level was across the red dot.
I guess I'll try and ride it to see if it clears up.
I can't right now, water pump has to go back in first and spline lube. I can't seem to find honda moly paste around locally, any good subsitutes?

Is it possible to get this topic moved over to the trouble shooting section?

Guard dog moly paste I think GA50 but not 100% sure on the numbers. In Oz we have the same thing called ROCOL GA50.
Its poisonprices but you can leave the remainder to your estate.

Have a look here.

I got a jar of it sent over to Oz and it's what I use. It was cheaper to do it that way than the $70.00 that the Honda dealer wanted for their moly paste.

je85 wrote:The oil level was across the red dot.
I guess I'll try and ride it to see if it clears up.
I can't right now, water pump has to go back in first and spline lube. I can't seem to find honda moly paste around locally, any good subsitutes?

Amazon have it at a good price, only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Moly-Paste-oz/dp/B0083BWUYW

RicK G wrote:Guard dog moly paste I think GA50 but not 100% sure on the numbers. In Oz we have the same thing called ROCOL GA50.
Its poisonprices but you can leave the remainder to your estate.

Funny you should say that, I picked up a 500g tub of 50% moly grease while helping to clean up after a friends partner had died. It's a Molybond product with military ID numbers on it (the mil standards it was supplied for). It came out of Garden Island where he used to work. Lots of weird stuff had to be got rid of.

Al

Ok...just to stir things up: The are people on some forums saying that the HondaMoly 60 paste has too much MoS₂ in it so they mix it 50/50 with Wirth 3000 grease, so it sticks to what your greasing. It has been said that the Honda stuff can "dry out" over time.

HondaMoly 60 paste has 60% and Guard Dog Moly grease has 30% MoS_2.

Just to confuse you people even more.

When I got mine it had sat for awhile and then sat for awhile longer while I did the sidecar and subframe stuff. When I got it on the road it smoked like a bastard. Ok, not sure how much bastards smoke, but it was a lot. Billowed comes to mind...clouds of it! After about 25km it stopped. That was about 6 years and 80,000km ago. Still running strong! It will blow smoke now for about 30 seconds after it sits for a week or two.
Sean.

[quote="AL-58"]

RicK G wrote: It's a Molybond product with military ID numbers on it (the mil standards it was supplied for). It came out of Garden Island where he used to work. Lots of weird stuff had to be got rid of.

Al

wear gloves when you use it....highly carcinogenic ...the irony being that all really good gear is really bad for you....

AL-58 wrote:

RicK G wrote:Guard dog moly paste I think GA50 but not 100% sure on the numbers. In Oz we have the same thing called ROCOL GA50.
Its poisonprices but you can leave the remainder to your estate.

Funny you should say that, I picked up a 500g tub of 50% moly grease while helping to clean up after a friends partner had died. It's a Molybond product with military ID numbers on it (the mil standards it was supplied for). It came out of Garden Island where he used to work. Lots of weird stuff had to be got rid of.

Al

Were you from WA?

Alheng wrote:

AL-58 wrote:

RicK G wrote:Guard dog moly paste I think GA50 but not 100% sure on the numbers. In Oz we have the same thing called ROCOL GA50.
Its poisonprices but you can leave the remainder to your estate.

Funny you should say that, I picked up a 500g tub of 50% moly grease while helping to clean up after a friends partner had died. It's a Molybond product with military ID numbers on it (the mil standards it was supplied for). It came out of Garden Island where he used to work. Lots of weird stuff had to be got rid of.

Al

Were you from WA?

Nah, NSW, Garden Island is the naval base in Sydney Harbour.
Al

They have a Garden Island Naval base here in WA too!

I've seen 2 different lubricants, one for the clutch spline area and another for the rear splines. BMW recommendations for the clutch area is OPTIMOL T WHITE PASTE, a castrol product which is labelled as an assembly paste. It's cream colour.

The rear spines all seem to use a moly based greese. I got some in a tin from the UK called OPTIMOLY and it is gray coloured.

I believe that point has been covered before here in some of the previous posts before Robin joined???
Somewhere..... wasn't it discussed that there was a change in that recommendation or at least some members opinions suggested that the white paste had proven to not be durable enough for the maint. interval?

Well this bike has done almost 180K without a relube on the clutch spline and I still see evidence of the factory lube on the splines. That's 27 years and it still looks in good nick.

The German recommendation is Staburegs it is quite pricey, check it out on their website, I managed to get some off one of the Flying Brick members out here on a holiday about 2 years back.

An old mate of mine used to ride a ratty-looking old K. Whenever he started it up at a rally after a night of drinking and stinking it'd blast a jet of smoke out across the camping ground (we called it mossie* control), chasing hangovers out of their tents, and he'd just shrug with a grin and say it was "old enough to smoke". A fast mile or two down the road towards home and it'd be right as rain.

*Mosquito for those of you who're Aussie vernacular challenged.

blaKey wrote:Ok...just to stir things up: The are people on some forums saying that the HondaMoly 60 paste has too much MoS₂ in it so they mix it 50/50 with Wirth 3000 grease, so it sticks to what your greasing. It has been said that the Honda stuff can "dry out" over time.

.

That's not necessarily a bad thing, I spoke to some engineers at Castrol many years ago about this very thing. The reason for the high MolyDisulphide grease is when the grease dries out (eventually), the dried Moly coating is still a very effective metal to metal lubricant.
Al

Two Wheels Better wrote:An old mate of mine used to ride a ratty-looking old K. Whenever he started it up at a rally after a night of drinking and stinking it'd blast a jet of smoke out across the camping ground (we called it mossie* control), chasing hangovers out of their tents, and he'd just shrug with a grin and say it was "old enough to smoke". A fast mile or two down the road towards home and it'd be right as rain.

*Mosquito for those of you who're Aussie vernacular challenged.

my favorite saying, whilst its smoking up the area ..........."shes just marking her territory " ....... grin

With my experience with moly it takes years to dry out and if you don't do the splines at least every tyre change you got a bad case of rocks in the head.

I bought the Staburegs off eBay.... and went to the dealership to pick u a spare key and took it along. the old dogs at the dealership said no no no....they they haven't used it for years. They told me to used Bel-Ray Assembly Lube. These guys have been working on Beemers for 40+years...and NO THEY DIDN"T ATTEMPT TO SELL ME ANY!
http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-assembly-lube

I would not be surprised if a lot of good results were had with Staburegs for many years. I'm sure that you might be able to find newer formulas that are thought to be better for the splines, but I ask.......How good does it have to be to do an adequate job?
Does anyone know of an unplanned early failure that occurred during the life of a spline that was properly serviced with Staburegs?
I would be more inclined to believe that either product is suitable, even if the Bel Ray could be proven to be marginally better, Do we really need a better product when we have one that does the job already.

I'll eat some crow here if someone can show me their big list of Staburegs related failures.

I wonder if the good old boys in Gemany are recommending Bel Ray?
Regards, Ibj....

Does not matter at all if the moly grease dries out as moly is a "dry film lubricant". We used to use it dry on the Jaguar aircraft in the RAF.

Crazy Frog wrote:If the bike has not ran for a while and you had a hard time to start it (trying repetitively without success), it could smoke for a while.
The only way to get rid of the smoke will be to go on the road and have the engine running at high rev.
If the bike was hard to start you may want to check if not any fuel leaked in the engine oil.

CF

Je85, I agree with CF. I had difficult cold start on mine and mega smoke. What I did after getting the engine going(about 5 attempts) is kept it at about 1500rpm with the fast idle control. I guess for about 4 or 5 minutes - the garage was full of smoke. Full like wafting down the street. I switched off, let it cool. An hour later it started first turn, no smoke.

I didn't bother reading the whole thread but one thing to note is that the rider manual from BMW recommends starting the bike and riding off immediately.  If you just let the bike idle in the driveway then they tend to foul the spark plugs.  (For some reason the K75s tend to do this a little more than K100s.)

That's my .02.

As for myself, ive notice it smoke a little less after start up when I changed the engine oil grade to 20W50, the previous owner ran it with 10W40.