Thanks again .75
Notes are updated below
Thanks Olaf, that is a good reassurance. At present I am concerned with getting the engine running, and being able to ride safely. Once that has been addressed, I'll move on to the bike at large and will reference your list.
NOTES (I'll research/expand on this. Opinions welcome):
Maintenance notes: If the bike has less than 50k miles I doubt you need the expensive air filter unless it was converted to a mouse condo. You can get the oil and fuel filters at any auto parts store for under $20, just avoid Fram. NAPA 8032 fuel filter and a Carquest 85348 oil filter. If you get the Endurolast fuel pump kit, you can leave out the fuel filter..
It shouldn't cost more than $100 to do all the Maintenance items less the air filter.
Complete In-Tank Fuel System Replacement - Including All the Fuel System Parts required Inside your Tank
52mm Fuel Pump Kit - BMW K1, K75, K100, K1100 (to 01/93); 16 12 1 461 576 / EnDuraLast
Part #: FPK-576EDL
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fpk-576edl.htm(Will also replace all fuel lines, with proper FI clamps)
Spark plugsA set of NGK plugs should only cost about 15 bucks. (use NGK DCPR7E)
Oil changeJug of Castrol GTX 10W50 at Walmart for $25. Filter: Carquest 85348
Coolant changePeak Long Life coolant and mix it with distilled water from the grocery store
Gear Oil changeWalmart Synthetic GL-5 gear lube
Spline maintenanceI'm sure there's a good post covering this job somewhere...will look
This stuff may be good?
Enduralast 477 Spline Lube, 15 Grams
spline lube for use on all transmission, driveshaft, clutch and final drive splines on BMW motorcycles.
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/endura477splb.htmlBrakes- Definitely figure on needing to flush the brakes and take a hard look at the front brake master cylinder.
- Keep your fingers crossed that the ABS isn't throwing a code.
- The front master cylinder will leak if it's not leaking yet. Dismantle and check if there's no corrosion inside the cylinder itself: if not, you can change only the piston and the gaskets. If there is, change the whole master cylinder, for aprox 400$...
- Pay attention to the front central brake line: it's prone to crack. If there's any doubt: change.
Master cylinder reading:
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=343.0https://www.k100-forum.com/t18611-front-master-cylinder-leakhttps://www.k100-forum.com/t2516-front-master-cylinder-fluid-leakRear Main Seal- Depending on miles, the rear main seal may possibly be good, but I would plan on changing the (clutch) o-ring as soon as possible.
Reading:
https://www.k100-forum.com/t9812-replacing-k100-rear-main-sealhttps://www.k100-forum.com/t15405-k100-rs-clutch-housing-removalTiresDefinitely going to be changed
I was originally leaning towards Bridgestone Battlax A41, however
I'm sure I'll end up getting into some desert riding, coarse sand, loose gravel
I know it is not the K100's forte, but I also know this will end up happening... Battlax's aren't going to work so well
I have Shinko 705s on the '85, and I'm happy with them... but I'd rather try a different tire, gather empirical data
BatteryReplace. Will probably get a lightweight unit, small as will be reliable.
Fork Oil- Fork oil would be nice, but not absolutely necessary.
- If you have the time or ambition to do the forks, almost any Automatic transmission fluid will work in them. It has the added benefit of having additives that soften up the seals.
Some more reading:
https://www.k100-forum.com/t15884-k100rs-16v-putting-it-back-on-the-road