Hey guys,



My K100 seems to kill almost everytime it comes on. Little background:



My f650gs's battery was shot, so i decided to jump the 650 off my k100. Before doing this, i had fixed a huge crack in the oil pan of the k100 using JB weld. Before any of this, everything worked perfectly. Fixed the crack, changed oil, and oil filter. Turned bike on, everything ran great. After jumping my 650...not so much.



I can get it to crank, sounds normal, and starting it is hit or miss. Sometimes i have to give it a little twist of the throttle to start. Once it's on, it'll rev up and down by itself, and normalize. Once normalized itll stay on, but if i rev it and let go of the throttle, it will cut off. I had a non-stop hour ride all highway yesterday thinking the battery would charge, once i had to stop at a light, engine killed. bike would not restart. Fortunately, i was able to push start it to get home..

The battery seems fine, no dimness anywhere (headlights,dash,blinkers, etc), and spins the starter pretty quickly as normal.



Did i fry the alternator? Could i have possibly unplugged it some how? Anyone have any schematics/pictures on how to get to the alternator? Should i just go buy a 6-pack of guiness and knock the bike over? Thanks guys!

Sounds like a intake leak to me......but the push start doesn`t fit in this picture.

Inge K.

The ford cars of the same era in Oz used the L Jetronic ECU and there were very specific instructions that you were not to jump start them or use them to jump start anything else because of the high probability of damage to the ECU module. What you are describing is similar to what used to happen and from what I remember (and that hasn't worked 100% recently has it TWB) it was a firmware coruption i.e. the computer lost the plot till the software side was reloaded by the factory.

This has the same ring to it so a new to the bike computer may be a good way to find out. Or if you could borrow one for a try.

Inge K. wrote:Sounds like a intake leak to me......but the push start doesn`t fit in this picture.

Inge K.

Well I did take out the airbox and clean it out because of caked on dust, and wanted to check the filter. Could i have possibly unplugged something?

K Freak wrote:The ford cars of the same era in Oz used the L Jetronic ECU and there were very specific instructions that you were not to jump start them or use them to jump start anything else because of the high probability of damage to the ECU module. What you are describing is similar to what used to happen and from what I remember (and that hasn't worked 100% recently has it TWB) it was a firmware coruption i.e. the computer lost the plot till the software side was reloaded by the factory.

This has the same ring to it so a new to the bike computer may be a good way to find out. Or if you could borrow one for a try.

Unfortunately i have no one else around with a K bike i can test. Is there any way i can test it myself?





Thanks you guys. This has me pretty frustrated...

ixiiom .....try this ......just disconnect the batery from the bike for a couple of hours .



many times computer equipment gets "spiked" (high voltages apearing on the power supply ...probably fom back emfs of the jump process )



letting the supply voltages die for some period often resets the "latched bits " in the cpu data lines /addresses



also sounds like something in the fuel management side of things to me

like the connector from the air flow meter is intemitent..(from undoing the air box ) possibly you have dislodged the connections around that area ......undo the under seat computer / cable clean it up and then reattach .



i had a huge bump event on the weekend way out in the middle of nowhere....bloody potholes ....the diagnosis was bike would idle ...but no power on rev or would die when it wanted to (sounds like starving for fuel to me ).



i disconnected the under seat puter and refitted the connector (after checking all the spark stuff- plugs leads , fuel pump etc )

she woke to life and hassnt missed a beat since



just a thought

charlie99 wrote:ixiiom .....try this ......just disconnect the batery from the bike for a couple of hours .

many times computer equipment gets "spiked" (high voltages apearing on the power supply ...probably fom back emfs of the jump process )

letting the supply voltages die for some period often resets the "latched bits " in the cpu data lines /addresses

also sounds like something in the fuel management side of things to me

like the connector from the air flow meter is intemitent..(from undoing the air box ) possibly you have dislodged the connections around that area ......undo the under seat computer / cable clean it up and then reattach .

i had a huge bump event on the weekend way out in the middle of nowhere....bloody potholes ....the diagnosis was bike would idle ...but no power on rev or would die when it wanted to (sounds like starving for fuel to me ).


i disconnected the under seat puter and refitted the connector (after checking all the spark stuff- plugs leads , fuel pump etc )

she woke to life and hassnt missed a beat since

just a thought

I have reseated the 13 pin connecter thing thats under the seat incase it was loose. I do need to check the airbox. that cable may be messed up after i tried to clean it out. Ill check that out soon. Thanks!

and as a side note...where is the fuel pump/filter located? am i to assume its IN the tank itself?



Thanks!

yes thats right ...in te tank........hmm you maybe just prompted meto think ......the fuel tank connection is on the right hand side under the side cover ......just near the + battery terminal (4 pin connector ) these have been known to cause issues with fuel supply ..



quite often the connection is either dirty or loose and may reguire some treatment .....to close up the socket connections ...so they grab the pins properly



good luck

Last year, I had the same experience with my bike. It was running great. I parked it to go to a store but after it was dying on idle.
The battery seemed to be OK as I could get the starter cranking.
I was really puzzled and replaced the battery with the one of my other K-bike. This fixed the problem.
Don't forget, the alternator doesn't kick in before 1,500 rpm and if you have a bad cell in your battery, your engine will dye. Unplug the battery from your other bike (if it's good now) and try it on the K100.

I don't believe that the problem is fuel pump related as you were able to ride the bike for 1 hour

Bert.

So i checked all the connections and everything seemed good. I decided to open up the air box again to make sure everything is cool. pulled out what seems to look like the air regulator/whatever the cable is connected to. At the open end or the intake, i saw what seemed to be a sensor caked in dirt. I cleaned it up and now its running like a champ! I guess from spraying stuff with water, the sensor got water, and caked with dirt.

Now the problem im having is it is dieing if im above 3rd gear and slow down not using engine braking. Ex...doing 50, pull in clutch and slow down using brakes...If i down shit itll stay alive. im guessing this may have to do with the needles...someone messed with the screws and un-synced them...

The sensor caked in dirt is air temp. sensor, get the bypass screws at the throttle bodies synked.........and enjoy.

Inge K.

On the other side, with a functioning airfilter it should`nt be any dirt inside.
Maybe some more in the intake need to be dismantled and cleaned?

Inge K.

good point inge .......im thinking the water may have perforated the air filter ?

i just dont get it yet ....how this happened from a battery jump

Could be some unclean current, malfunctioning rectifier?

Inge K.

Just guessing,

could it be the Throttle position butterfly switch.

If the switch for the idle are shorted, the engine should

not run faster than 2000 rpm.

Just pull off the plug to test it.

StokerPasser wrote:Just guessing,

could it be the Throttle position butterfly switch.

If the switch for the idle are shorted, the engine should

not run faster than 2000 rpm.

Just pull off the plug to test it.

what exactly is the throttle position butterfly switch?

Roll a bit down on this page.

Inge K.