Hello, me again.

OK, I am in need of a very clear, idiots guide to doing the clutch splines. Every time I think I've found something there seems to be big gaps in the process, whether it's a written bit or a video on YouTube. I am probably just scarring myself but this job seems to go a bit further into the devils work than I'm use to, but, finances and a desire to do more myself has pushed me in to it.

I have the Haynes manual and happy to buy others if recommended.

Thanks in advance.

Dave

I think we all understand your trepidation as the first spline lube seems like a daunting task. However, it's really just a matter of taking things apart and putting them back together with no special skills or tools required.  Once you've done it you'll be more familiar with your bike and, aside from the time it takes, will realize it's not that big of a deal.

Here's my page on spline lubes. You really don't even need a shop manual:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/splinelube/splinelube.htm

That's great, thank you for that, although on opening your page that picture scared the hell out of me! LOL

David

One major trick is to get two 8mm bolts at least 4" long and cut the heads off.  They go in the transmission mounting holes on either side of the transmission.  They make it easy to slide the transmission back into position on the rear of the engine when you're putting things back together.

My not-so-secret trick is to slide the transmission back about an inch on the 8mm bolts.  That gives you enough space to see the splines and carefully put the lube on them with a metal handle parts brush that has a couple inches of a small wood dowel stuck in the end to make it a bit longer.  It saves pulling the transmission completely off and having to wrestle it back onto the bike.

The good news is that for most riders you only need to do this job every 4 years or so.  It takes an afternoon and gives you a chance to put anti-seize on all the fasteners and check their torque.  It's also an excellent time to check the integrity of the gear position indicator switch and maybe clean it and make it waterproof.

I've found it's easier not to cut the heads off of the guide bolts.  I get the tranny close and then use a couple of long hex head M8s to do the final alignment.

Thanks for posting this. You reminded me I have to do this job on my K .It has 19900 miles on it now so I guess it's time.I like the long brush method.I did my friends R80 that way and it made it much easier.

Same here.  Ilsa, my RT, now has about 20,000 miles on the clutch spline lube, the monkey knutz have 40,000 miles and the gear position switch is now permanently stuck on 4th gear.  I guess it's a good time to go back in there.

I know she loves it when I fuss over her.

I have a complete set of longer, job-specific 8mm threaded rod for this if anyone in North America needs them posted to do this job.

Three smooth studs to allow the gearbox to more easily slide to and fro, and one Allen head to tighten it home. Tape measure shown so's you can make yer own set.

Point-Seven-five wrote:The good news is that for most riders you only need to do this job every 4 years or so.

FYI: Prior to 1990 the BMW recommended maintenance interval for clutch spline lubes was annual. (Which is rather silly if you don't ride very much.) But for vehicles produced from 1990 onward (when BMW allegedly hardened the input shaft splines) every 40,000 miles.

Shown here in the BMW K Bike Maintenance Schedule:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/maintsched/BMW.K.Bike.Maint.Sched.All.K.Bikes.pdf


The typical symptom of clutch splines getting "dry" is getting "false neutrals" when downshifting, most noticeably from 4 to 3 and 3 to 2 in my experience.

The typical symptom of clutch splines getting "dry" is getting "false neutrals" when downshifting, most noticeably from 4 to 3 and 3 to 2 in my experience.

Is this symptom noticeable when the engine is cold, hot, or across the range?

Mike

mike d wrote:The typical symptom of clutch splines getting "dry" is getting "false neutrals" when downshifting, most noticeably from 4 to 3 and 3 to 2 in my experience.

Is this symptom noticeable when the engine is cold, hot, or across the range?

Mike

I don't think it's engine heat related.

o.k. thanks

Mike

Two Wheels Better wrote:I have a complete set of longer, job-specific 8mm threaded rod for this if anyone in North America needs them posted to do this job.

Three smooth studs to allow the gearbox to more easily slide to and fro, and one Allen head to tighten it home. Tape measure shown so's you can make yer own set.

What is the pitch on that 8mm thread ?

It's typical 8mm standard, which is 1.25 tpi. There would likely be no reason for fine or coarse thread in a gearbox to bell housing mounting point given the torque specs. They're basically four M8x90x1.25 with three of their heads guillotined. Viva la K!

I've got two like that as well, but mine are bright shiny silver. Gotta be shiny because then they can't hide in dark corners

Two Wheels Better wrote:It's typical 8mm standard, which is 1.25 tpi. There would likely be no reason for fine or coarse thread in a gearbox to bell housing mounting point given the torque specs. They're basically four M8x90x1.25 with three of their heads guillotined. Viva la K!

Thank you , Just wanted to know so I can get them before I start ripping apart my bike to do this job.

Here's mine.  I found that having long ones without heads sticking out got in the way when putting the transmission back on so I just get the transmission close and then put two of these in the bottom holes.  They're also much easier to turn with hex heads and a socket.

That works too. I find a long handled ball socket Allen lets me get to the one I use to tighten it down with pretty easy. The others, of course, are just finger loose as guides.

I guess that would be better if you are actually removing the transmission to do this job but I'm going to try to do it by just getting the transmission far enough back to sneak in there with a long brush and grease those mothers like I did on an R80 a while back.

The 8mm bolts even make sliding the transmission back to sneak in on the splines easier.  They help support the weight of the transmission so you don't bend the clutch shaft.

Point-Seven-five wrote:The 8mm bolts even make sliding the transmission back to sneak in on the splines easier.  They help support the weight of the transmission so you don't bend the clutch shaft.

Bingo! That is the point. Well worth knocking a few 8mm threaded studs into shape for both servicing and removing/installing.

Even BMW themselves recognised the benefit of those pins, as they are listed in their special tools list BMW # 83 30 0 401 812 (Cartool number 23 1 820). In 2007 a pair was £22 (UK). 

Mike

Today they are just shy of $53.  I paid about 5 bucks for three 8mm x 100mm bolts.