Hi
My friend is having a problem with badly noise from bellhousing side. When engine is cold is silence, but rising when engine warm up. That is no bearing in alternator, but for a first view sounds like that and it would be a piece a cacke. But that is something in bellhousing. I was looking for the answer but did not find exact answer. I pur carbon graphite additive to the engine and noise is overall less noticable.
I know I'll have to disasemble that part of engine but what to looking for?
I record a short movie with that noise: https://youtu.be/jfc2wCBPEYY

Desperately looking for answer.

Monkey nuts. Seriously. The noise got louder when you brought the alternator into view, so it's a good bet that one or more of the cush drive rubbers has collapsed.

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=JA&SbCt=BA_15_40_JA_10&spPage=2

Part number: ELA64877


You need three of them.

Dai wrote:Monkey nuts. Seriously. The noise got louder when you brought the alternator into view, so it's a good bet that one or more of the cush drive rubbers has collapsed.

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=JA&SbCt=BA_15_40_JA_10&spPage=2

Part number: ELA64877


You need three of them.

Hi Dai
Tha thanks for your post but when I do remove alternator the noise is same. No alternator no crush drive rubbers and same noise. Or I miss something??

Loose rivets on the output shaft? Guys?

Two possible courses of action would be to wear earplugs or to inspect the output shaft components as illustrated and explained on the Tech page in the Portal at the link First renovation of a K100.

Laitch wrote:Two possible courses of action would be to wear earplugs or to inspect the output shaft components as illustrated and explained on the Tech page in the Portal at the link First renovation of a K100.

Will you pls send me a direct link? I was looking for what you write but could't find. In the mean time found a lot of other post and information but no of them solve definitely the problem.

Here's the direct link: http://www.kforum-tech.com/k100-Renovation/K100.htm

So, finnaly we got time to disassamble engine to looking for weird noise. I stuck on outputshaft because can not remove it from housing, that is very starnge but that "half" is keeping the bearing and make me impossible to take out whole shaft...did I miss something???? Please help, see pic.
Also I see a little starnge makks on bearing bed in engine housing, like bearing was sliping inside aluminium housing, or maybe that is just how it looks like. See pic.

And the last case is the starter clutch, three bolts which keeps clutch together were were very untight, like I use 15-20 Nm to unscrew them. Should be like that or they started to unscrewed themselves??

gearbox knashing of teeth  dont worry, it will still run forever!

I have older model with 6 rivets on output shaft, rivets are not shot but I can feel a little loose like 1mm. Now, I have oportunity to buy second hand output shaft with 12 rivets. Will that fits without any problem? It is complete shaft with all on it, so if I do replace output shaft like that will be no problem???

The 12 rivet shaft is a straight swap, but you might find that it comes with the later type bearing - which was modified to prevent axial movement of the shaft. The outer race of the bearing has a flange, which replaced the circlip on the earlier models, and the engine casings were modified accordingly.
No worries, you can still use the earlier bearing, but I found it a benefit to loctite it into place, this prevented the slight axial movement which manifested itself as inconsistency in the clutch biting point.

chris846 wrote:The 12 rivet shaft is a straight swap, but you might find that it comes with the later type bearing - which was modified to prevent axial movement of the shaft. The outer race of the bearing has a flange, which replaced the circlip on the earlier models, and the engine casings were modified accordingly.
No worries, you can still use the earlier bearing, but I found it a benefit to loctite it into place, this prevented the slight axial movement which manifested itself as inconsistency in the clutch biting point.

Thanks a lot, that was exactly information I was looking for.