A little news....when I bought the K100RT.......it came with a 1984 K100RS attached......it just never got back on the road.

But now I have added a running K100RS.

But this one is 1983 [not 84 as I thought], has lived with its owner for 16 years, owner before that bought it as a year old bike, its done 7,000 miles in that time, has an old Cork reg and original black and silver number plate which I am very sentimental about as I have seen it on the road, €26 a year road tax and just been told €40 to insure. It needs tank leak fixed, new fuel lines, full brakes overhaul of calipers/mc/reservoirs, it has the push in fuel cap, still has the original slotted rear disc and will get a new seat. What I really mean is I will swap over the purpose made seat from the K100RT whenever it goes out, the one on it is perfect. I have most of the stuff needed to get it sorted.

More important, it has given me incentive to sort my shed out.

No it won't be a café.....its staying original and may well leave that rear disc on it. They were recalled for solid discs due to cracking but a close watch will keep that in check.

Work has intervened a bit so maybe looking for a few parts as I would like to take it to the classic New Years Day run since it has original local plates.

Congratulations on the newest addition to your fleet Olaf!  I'm not sure what I'm more envious of - the multiple K's or how little you have to pay for insurance.  I'm required to pay about $800 CDN and only get to ride about eight or nine months a year

We have multibike insurance policies, only €40 to add this one to it.

All in I think insurance is about €300 for 4 bikes.

I use bikes all year unless snowed in which is rare.

One of the reasons I didn't like the RS is the bars.......so how easy is it to put C bars on it? Do I just need the bars, looks like the ignition pad can stay or do I need an RT/LT type of ignition pad as well?

Hi Olaf

I think I have a set of C bars - they came off Electric Monks K100 16V RS. I also have a spare LT/RT pad if you want. You are welcome to both as I will not be using them.

The C bars will fit with the short RS cables.

Ringfad wrote:Hi Olaf

I think I have a set of C bars - they came off Electric Monks K100 16V RS. I also have a spare LT/RT pad if you want. You are welcome to both as I will not be using them.

How many puddings are you asking for them?

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:One of the reasons I didn't like the RS is the bars.......so how easy is it to put C bars on it? Do I just need the bars, looks like the ignition pad can stay or do I need an RT/LT type of ignition pad as well?

HI Olaf,
nice one, delighted for both you and Jim.  He had told me it was an '84, sorry 'bout that.

I put C bars on my other K100RS, which is now with Richard.  The bars fit with the existing cables etc., but the pad on the RS is too wide for the bars.  IIRC it has four switches which make it too wide. You will have to change it to a narrower one. Ringfad can check the one he has with the C bars he has to check if you're in luck.

And the C bars make a big difference to comfort.

No doubt there will be a lot of swapping of bullshit stories and parts in Stradbally.  I have a few bits and bobs I don't need myself that I'll be bringing up. e.g. filter tool, fork seal puller, brake bleeder, spotlights, and daylight running lights.

Fintan I wasn't worried about the 83/84 bit, but the drain points on the cam cover and the push in fuel cap and then the VIN check gave me 83. The engine code is different from my 84 K100LT too which suggests I might need to be careful on the petrol but that's ok too.

I did figure the C bars needed the ignition pad changed and as far as I can see that's all that changes.

I have a set of engine bars for it off the K1100LT as I got a set of wider ones for it, but will need the mountings as I bought the bars without fittings.

The seat is original and good but I hate those seats, think I might get the old one off my RT done in the style of your K1100 seat by young Mr Savage. I have 26k miles on that one since it came from you and its unreal.

We didn't run it due to absence of petrol [due to pinhole in tank], but it turns over fine.

Looking forward to this one!!!

"IIRC it has four switches which make it too wide. You will have to change it to a narrower one"

RS's have the narrow 3 switch pad as standard.

Ringfad wrote:"IIRC it has four switches which make it too wide. You will have to change it to a narrower one"

RS's have the narrow 3 switch pad as standard.

That's as may be, (been a while), but my RS switch pad was definitely too wide for the C bars I fitted. I know as I made a cack-handed attempt to cut them to fit (and learned that they have a steel plate that doesn't like being cut).

The proof of my cack-handedness is probably still present on the RS that Richard now rides.

I think (but don't quote me- refer to above), that the ignition barrel is also located differently on the different pads, to make one narrower.

Tho' it may be considered pedantic - we're BMW riders - as such the details are oftentimes as important as myth & legend:

A '1983' K100RS with VIN .....0011175 makes it an 11th month of '83 production, which technically means it's considered a 1984 model as far as BMWAG is concerned since production for the next model year begins in September (thru August of the next year) of the previous year.

Any North American model which will have a seventeen digit VIN, validates the year/model in the 10th digit, an 'E' indicating its intended year/model for 1984. Of course, what a particular country does for their own registration purposes is another matter. Australia (Queensland & NSW, at least) consider my 10th month of '86 production K100RS to be a 1988 and they won't hear a word of it when asked to correct their error. Perhaps they earn a few extra notes of filthy lucre when it's considered a year or so newer?!

The non-US VIN of K100RS0142372 is a 1987 model having been built in the 10th month of 1986.

I wasn't at all bothered by the year, none are premium collector items and it's in good enough condition to work with.

If fitting C bars it may SEEM like the brake line from the master is too short but if you loosen the banjo bolt so you can change the angle of the line then it should work.

The 4 slot square dash will work fine with C or RS bars.

Thanks guys, its definitely getting the C bars and engine bars on it.

Seems K pox is rampant around these shores at the moment...............

Two Wheels Better wrote:Tho' it may be considered pedantic - we're BMW riders - as such the details are oftentimes as important as myth & legend:

A '1983' K100RS with VIN .....0011175 makes it an 11th month of '83 production, which technically means it's considered a 1984 model as far as BMWAG is concerned since production for the next model year begins in September (thru August of the next year) of the previous year.

Any North American model which will have a seventeen digit VIN, validates the year/model in the 10th digit, an 'E' indicating its intended year/model for 1984. Of course, what a particular country does for their own registration purposes is another matter. Australia (Queensland & NSW, at least) consider my 10th month of '86 production K100RS to be a 1988 and they won't hear a word of it when asked to correct their error. Perhaps they earn a few extra notes of filthy lucre when it's considered a year or so newer?!

The non-US VIN of K100RS0142372 is a 1987 model having been built in the 10th month of 1986.

If I recall your red terror was bought into the country as a used vehicle so at the time the VERY stupid powers that were took the year of import to be the year of the model. I had a 1990 Toyota Surf that the same idiots said it was a 2000 model because that was the year it was imported. I tried to correct the "mistake" and was informed as to how smart those powers were.
They no longer do that because at sometime there was a smart one that fixed the system and taught the goons how to count using more than their fingers and toes.

My K100LT is 0193214 which is from what I think was the last week of K100 production in 1991 as the last one I think is 0192372 or thereabouts....but it's well into 1992 for registration purposes....

Obviously at the age we buy Ks its more important to view condition/maintenance than be fussy about the year.

Just for once the UK is sensible. There are two fields on the vehicle registration document: 'Date of First Registration' and 'Date of First Registration in the UK'. You still get the next available registration plate, so although LFB  was first registered in 1984 in the UK, it went UK-ROI-UK, was imported by me in 2013 and has a 2013 year registration plate for County Down. Then to add to the confusion, NI plates are different to the rest of the UK...

Dai wrote:Just for once the UK is sensible. There are two fields on the vehicle registration document: 'Date of First Registration' and 'Date of First Registration in the UK'. You still get the next available registration plate, so although LFB  was first registered in 1984 in the UK, it went UK-ROI-UK, was imported by me in 2013 and has a 2013 year registration plate for County Down. Then to add to the confusion, NI plates are different to the rest of the UK...

We do know all about that.......in one part of the country 'cattle' refers to the source of the milk for your tae......in another part of the country 'cattle' is what you boil the water in to make the aforesaid tea. Very confusing for some.

But one great thing about NI is the hospitality.....second to none.

And our registration document does show both year of manufacture and year of first registration, be it in Ireland and if an import also shows the registration and date of first registration in the original country.

RicK G wrote:The C bars will fit with the short RS cables.

Great to know Rick. I fancy a set for the K1100rs. Whenever it goes back together.

@ Olaf. If the plate needs restoration I know a company who does the old raised letters.