K100rt has been sitting unused for a while, but noticed very very stiff clutch at handle any advice as don't want to break cable

rt usually has the sidestand retract mechanism tied to the clutch cable …. but can be released if needed

bearing failure - seizing of the roller bearings in the clutch arm can be helped with some good lubrication ...working it in

some even have installed a grease nipple to the bottom of the clutch arm to lubricate etc …

gland in the lever in the perch could do with a good lube also

I use a cable injector to flush out grime in  the cable then pressurise teflon lube down the cable

it should move freely and without to much pressure required

good luck

Sorry Charlie I just typed this out with one finger so I'm posting it. First adjust the cable at the bar end to get the maximum free play. Then disconnect the cable from the lower arm by gently levering back with a large screw driver enough to release the nipple. Next remove the clutch lever pivot pin and remove the cable from the lever. Now without removing the cable check the cable for damage at both ends, also check the lever for wear or damage.

To lubricate the cable you will need to get a can of PTFE cable lubricant. Bicycle shops are the best source I use one called Triflo. Use a dam (cone) made out of plasticine on the upper end of the cable fill it and let the lube run through enough so that all the crap is flushed out. The lube coming out of the bottom should run clean. The plasticine can be wrung out and stored in an airtight container for future use. Never use WD40 or it's like as these types of lubricants can cause the Teflon liner to degrade.

Check the clutch arm under the gearbox for free movement. If it does not move freely it will need to be removed cleaned, checked and greased. At this stage it is worthwhile fitting a grease nipple to the clutch arm it saves a lot of future grief.  The clutch arm operates a pushrod which has a rubber boot on the end, be EXTREMELY careful not to damage the boot as damaging it will allow leaks to occur. Reassemble carefully and adjust as per specifications on site or in your workshop manual. If you don't have a manual buy one or download one from this site.

Regards Martin.

Incredible amount of information thanks, yes I have a downloaded manual but searching the 500 pages using my phone is difficult thank you...

When I got my K1100LT the clutch was so stiff it as aching my wrist.

To be honest I always put a new clutch cable in any bike I buy, that was I know I am not in for any surprises down the road.

New cable, this time correctly routed solved it completely. PO had also put a new cable in sometime before and followed the earlier cable route which unfortunately had been incorrect. Yes do all the other tasks too but if its an old cable just change it anyway as part of what you are doing. You can always keep the one you take out as a spare. For RT/LT you also need the longer cable, they come in two lengths.

I am not sure when the side stand retract option came in, my 84 K100RT does not have it and my 92 [91 build] K100LT does have it. If the clutch is still stiff with the side stand retracted then the side stand retract mechanism is NOT your cause of the problem. The stand needs to be really well lubed up to reduce strain on the cable and to be honest I just used it as a reminder that it was down.

A hardcover manual is invaluable. Keep checking Ebay they can sometimes be had for around $30.00 Au. Haynes are about $50.00 Au new and is the more common one, the Clymer one seems to fetch more money. I've heard some inmates state that the Clymer is better, but I can't say never having seen one. Inmates will probably give their opinions on which is best.

Regards Martin.

Get both. One sometimes shows things that the other doesn't.

Thanks very much for great advice, I have both RS and RT bikes which are similar but some differences in condition of each bike. Priority is to get one at least registered within 2 weeks for annual ride to Canberra is September

Hi RSRT, looks like you are somewhere in Queensland which means that to get to Canberra you have to go past quite a few members on here.

If you feel inclined to meet any of us on the way there or back don't hesitate to publish your route or PM some of us.

Cheers

OK I'll post route and dates over Thursday to Monday of weekend 15th September. Thurs night is Tamworth, Friday night Taralga, Sat night Boorowa, Sunday maybe Walcha we will be riding in a small group but the actual ride contains a few hundred

Best to start a new thread for your trip and see how it unfolds.

People often come out of the woodwork to catch up. Some of us from the Hunter Valley will be on the road that weekend as well with the Far Cairn Rally at Tottenham as our Saturday night destination.

Cheers

A Used Clymer manual available in the Gold Coast hinterland $37.00 Au. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-K-series-1985-1995-K75-to-K1100RSA-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL/323363526742?hash=item4b49f7d856:g:32QAAOSwc2FaPzZy
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:A Used Clymer manual available in the Gold Coast hinterland $37.00 Au. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-K-series-1985-1995-K75-to-K1100RSA-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL/323363526742?hash=item4b49f7d856:g:32QAAOSwc2FaPzZy
Regards Martin.

Thank you for assistance, Fixed clutch issue with common sense and your advice now no pump riming or rear tail light in instrument panel so Im searching through the portal, hopefully its just a fuse, thanks for this great site.

The four pin connector under the right hand side off the tank is a known source of connectivity problems. Cleaning with DeoxIT (Jaycar) two part will sometimes fix it. Some inmates have resorted to bending or slightly squashing the pin in order to regain contact. I ended up fitting a four pin waterproof connector courtesy of Jaycar. With old bricks it is worthwhile going over all the electrical connectors with DeoxIT it will reduce future problems.
Regards Martin.

I did have to take the fuel sender unit off and replaced the rubber leaking gasket so it's probably that so I will check it in the morning, it unplugs from under the tank does it, thanks for advice.

Ahhhh - looks like cross-purposes guys. Martin is referring to the early tanks with the connector on the forward-left side, but K100RSRT appears to be describing the later tank with the fuel level pickup at the rear. I think a picture would help?

Yes I have both both bikes and at the moment my RT with the square mounting plate under the tank was removed and replaced,