BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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1Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty momentary switches install issue Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:34 am

mister_anger

mister_anger
Silver member
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hello,

I want to install the motone or motogadget switches on my K100 project.
But all these switches are momentary switches.
For starter, horn and headlight flasher this is not an issue but....
For the cut off button and turn signals these switches will not work.
Not sure for the turn signal cancel switch, I think this can be momentary.
How do I deal with this??
I guess I need to install relays for this but I am not really a expert in this so some info would help.

thans, Michel

    

2Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:37 am

mister_anger

mister_anger
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before dismantling the original swiches I forgot to check if they are momentary or not.
Maybe someone can check and let me know?

thanks,M

    

3Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:54 am

nods

nods
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I'm pretty sure those motogadget momentary switches are designed to be used with the motogadget m-unit.  They don't carry a lot of current either.


__________________________________________________
Chassis number0025951
Vehicle code0504
SeriesK589
ModelK 100 RT 84 (0504 ( 0505 )
Body typeK 100 RT 84 (0504
Catalog modelECE
Production date1985 / 01
Engine0514)
Transmission
Steering
CatalyzerNONE
    

4Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:06 am

mister_anger

mister_anger
Silver member
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the M switch can carry 2A. Seems enough to do what it needs to do.

    

5Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Sun Jul 15, 2018 12:55 pm

robmack

robmack
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All switches on the K-bike are single-pole-single-throw normally open (SPST N/O) momentary contact except for the headlight Hi/Lo switch, which is single-pole-double-throw (SPDT), the headlight on/off switch which is a very special contact configuration and the kill switch which is SPDT centre-off.  The current requirements from the switches are very low, in the 10's of milliamp range, except the headlight switches which carries full current demanded by the H4 halogen bulb in the headlight.  This can be 5 Amps for a 55/60 halogen.  That probably means the M-unit switch you think you are going to use to give you headlight flasher will burn out after a short while because it will be carrying 5 Amps of current across contacts that are rated for 2 Amps maximum.

Think through your design very carefully before committing to a given product or solution.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

6Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Mon Jul 16, 2018 3:24 am

mister_anger

mister_anger
Silver member
Silver member
thanks for the reply this is usefull info.
The headlight switch is removed as I want the headlight always to be on. So that is not a issue
Same thing for the Hi/lo switch. That has been removed and the option Hi  is no longer in use. 
So this means on the handlebar I'll be needing :
Left/right turnsignal  ==> momentary switch 
Turn signal cancel switch ==> momentary switch
Start button  ==> momentary switch
headlight flasher ==> momentary switch

Killswitch ==> not momentary I think???? Will not be installed on the handlebar but on the top yoke.

thanks, Michel

    

7Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Mon Jul 16, 2018 4:09 pm

mister_anger

mister_anger
Silver member
Silver member
The only left to figure out is the current that the killswitch needs to be able to switch.
Calculating this for headlamp, horn, ect.... is easy but the killswitch is something different.
I have no idea what current the killswicht needs to take.
Anyone??
thanks, M

    

8Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:01 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

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robmack wrote:All switches on the K-bike are single-pole-single-throw normally open (SPST N/O) momentary contact except for the headlight Hi/Lo switch, which is single-pole-double-throw (SPDT), the headlight on/off switch which is a very special contact configuration and the kill switch which is SPDT centre-off.  The current requirements from the switches are very low, in the 10's of milliamp range, except the headlight switches which carries full current demanded by the H4 halogen bulb in the headlight.  This can be 5 Amps for a 55/60 halogen.  That probably means the M-unit switch you think you are going to use to give you headlight flasher will burn out after a short while because it will be carrying 5 Amps of current across contacts that are rated for 2 Amps maximum.

Think through your design very carefully before committing to a given product or solution.

Headlight relay installation should cure that problem?


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

9Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:06 pm

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Yes, a relay kit should cure that problems.   There may be more to this modification than what's being described so it's also a caution to examine all aspects of the design.



Last edited by robmack on Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:55 am; edited 1 time in total


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

10Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Tue Jul 17, 2018 3:34 am

mister_anger

mister_anger
Silver member
Silver member
found a set of switchgear in the UK.
http://motorcycleswitchgear.co.uk/
these switches can handle 10A. More then enough for all applications, except the killswitch.
My K bike has been modified to a single headlight so no problems there.
Will install these and install a killswitch somewhere out of sight.

    

11Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Tue Jul 17, 2018 8:05 am

robmack

robmack
Life time member
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In my opinion, the one switch that should remain on the handlebars in easy access is the kill switch.  It serves the purpose of disabling all the critical electrics to the motorcycle in the event of an accident.  the last thing you want to do is grope around for a hidden switch (or challenge a bystander to do the same should you be incapacitated).  The kill circuit is supplying the coils, the ICU, FI relay, brake switches, BMU and several accessory circuits. See Bert's interactive electrical diagram to understand the circuitry: http://www.kforum-tech.com/Downloads/electrical/diagrams/interactive_diagrams.htm Maybe 10A contact current rating is enough.

The switches you linked to have no electrical specifications anywhere on the site.  What configuration are the switches?  Do they share a common lead, which would not work well with your idea.  I'd ask the manufacturer for more information.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

12Back to top Go down   momentary switches install issue Empty Re: momentary switches install issue Tue Jul 17, 2018 8:27 am

mister_anger

mister_anger
Silver member
Silver member
robmack wrote:In my opinion, the one switch that should remain on the handlebars in easy access is the kill switch.  It serves the purpose of disabling all the critical electrics to the motorcycle in the event of an accident.  the last thing you want to do is grope around for a hidden switch (or challenge a bystander to do the same should you be incapacitated).  The kill circuit is supplying the coils, the ICU, FI relay, brake switches, BMU and several accessory circuits. See Bert's interactive electrical diagram to understand the circuitry:  http://www.kforum-tech.com/Downloads/electrical/diagrams/interactive_diagrams.htm  Maybe 10A contact current rating is enough.

The switches you linked to have no electrical specifications anywhere on the site.  What configuration are the switches?  Do they share a common lead, which would not work well with your idea.  I'd ask the manufacturer for more information.
spoke to the guy that builds them via facebook. If you order these switches you can choose between latched or momentary. Up to the buyer to decide what he wants. They are all 10A and in my case they all need to be momentary. You have a point about the position of the killswitch. I'll have to look for a switch that can be mounted on the handlebar or top yoke. I just need to find one that will fit the look of the bike.

    

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