Start a new thread "Too good to Show, have to ride it" ! 

Fantastic result mate, I really am thrilled for you and slightly (Read totally) in awe of what you accomlished. I'm sure if you walked into a showroom with $20k you wouldn't have as much fun. 

Virtual clinkies 


Ok, now I'll have to do some more I guess or I'll be left behind!

charlie99 wrote:well this thread is coming to an end .....just a few more posts and it will reach the 1000 number  and alas break up the journey as new posts will be blocked and closed to further  contributions

any thoughts to what I should do ?

start a new thread ...with a similar name and conventions ?

ill leave it to you all


cheers

I have been watching this thread of yours with great interest and have to give you the big handshake because . . . . I will hardly EVER follow ANY thread but you have kept this so lively with the constant updates I found myself logging in just to have a peek. WEhat an inspiration you are man, To all of us I hope

Well done on the success of the rebuild!

I think you should start a new thread called "Gerty's Journey" and begin it with a summary of what the bike has gone through to date and go from there

Congrats man, A job really well done

Regards

Keith

Inge K. wrote:
To bad that BMW must have mounted these nuts the wrong way around on
a awful lot of bikes.

I don't know what to say to that, mechanics do what they are told. But, if the engineers didn't specify how the assembly should go together, then anything can happen.

If you look carefully, there are ring washers tack-welded to the nut, and these washers are split on one side. The flange gets very hot, and as washer heats up it will expand around its circumference. The effect of an expanded washer is to widen the region of pressure on the flange, thus reducing deformity of the flange and making for a more efficient seal.

On the other hand, if washer is not placed next to the flange there is no expanding pressure region when the assembly heats-up. Not saying you can't do that, only that washers in this configuration perform no significant function.

Get great Gerty going and going....new name for the thread..better hurry.:joker:

How 'bout...
"85 rt resto ...my attempt ...hey im not into making a show bike...redux"

It has something familiar and....it's a little bit fancy.



New Grand Gerty!*









*no hard feelings if you laugh and move on.

AJ.Valente wrote:If you look carefully, there are ring washers tack-welded to the nut, and these washers are split on one side.

It isn't any washer tack welded to the nut, but it is a small slot cut in the
round part of the nut...the middle part of this slot is then pressed together....
this makes the nut self locking.

Sorry guys - I've just got to do this.

THREAD POST 1000!!!

Now you got a busy time ahead, Charlie........the next 1000 during this
year?.....364 days left .

well this could be the last one   999 before this ... lets see

still chasing running heat issues  ...which could be a left over from the Guyra event recently  where gerty was running hot and boiling over

did a back flush yesterday ...removed radiator and all ...lots of debris found ..possibly from a chemical clean some months ago and gunk has solidified ..gave it a run and heat issue not resolved, increases with revs ....


in any case newer radiator installed . a proven good one ...transferred the fuel cooler as well ...



lets see how this goes later today when the silicon goes off on the water pump



if this is the last one ........wish me luck

Good Luck .........changed the radiator cap yet?

this o ring appears to fit well inge.... just seals around the inner lip ...till I can get the right thing

well it seems the consensus is that its running lean  and hot  I had found some issues after reinstalling the old injectors ..namely the o rings at the base of the injectors weren't sealing to the head ( which could have been happening on the new injectors as well ...but a odd spray pattern was noted and will be requesting another unit from the supplier )

I guess the mods to the head have promoted easier breathing and thus a leaner mix

Ill modify the afm and take a couple of clicks out of the tensioning spring to promote a better swing of the barndoor  hopefully to richen up the mix a bit

I have a spare that i have modified and waiting for the silicon to go off on the lid then to install as a test 

mr klompy asked if I had a exhaust gas analyser ....lol ... I guess ill have to use the feedback of exhaust colour ...plugs and engine temperature whilst running to see what happens .

its all go ...but running out of time before a return to that horrible place .....work ...!!

wish it was just a bit cooler down here ...to allow me time to play without becoming exhausted from the heat and humidity during the day ...( the neighbours don't take politely to any noises at near night time )

more fun on the way ...woohooo !

well fuel pressure regulator finally turned up on Monday ...(would be after the weekend ...blast )



although it has 9 mm spigots ...ill see what I can get to make it 8 mm

these should do the job


using a t-piece   the pressure on the system (stock ) fluctuates from around just under 2.5 bar  to just below 2 bar






with the vacuum line off  a nice steady 2.1 bar ...and a steadier idle (at cold )



thinking I should aim at first for 2.5 bar steady ...then work from there

more to happen today

Nice lookin' piece, Chaz. What sort of money is an FPR like that?

Cheers.

about $50 dazza
other smaller units available though for not much more
the issue is going to be the size ...and the cutout in the lower air box to fit it all in ... hose locations and all that stuff
dry fit up ,,,has a plan for me ...off to get some bits to fit it up .

almost fitted up and working ...just waiting for the paint to dry somewhat







tomorrow  pressure testing

What's the pressure with the bike not running? Can you energise the pump without running the bike?

Further, not knowing the quality of the pressure gauge, is there a way to verify it with another? You could chase your tail just to find out it indicates .5 low ;-)

pressure doesn't hold very long at all after motor stop rene , could be a backflow valve issue in the pump or a knackered fpr (most likely )



update ...I can blow through the old fpr without much effort .

There's your answer :-) Theoretically (:-)) the system should stay on pressure, but there are always some leaks. However pressure should only go down slowly. If you lose the pressure in a few minutes there's something off.

well got it all in ok





got it to sit at just under 3 bar ...vacuum line off ...which meant it hovered around 2.5 bar with vacuum on  




sill running a bit warm might take it up a bit higher

good news on power off it drops pressure to just under 2 bar ...and doesn't leak away immediately


update ..took it to 3 bar and it runs cooler ....perhaps a little fudging around and might be a fix ...(still to align-sync the throttle bodies at idle etc)

Glad to see you dont leak anymore.

ride today

gerty goes like a rocket ....too scared to open her up over 5 or 6k

Great news. Double demerits up there this weekend?

charlie99 wrote:ride today
gerty goes like a rocket ....too scared to open her up over 5 or 6k

Now that second bit is something I'd have never thought I would ever hear from you, Chazza!

um should have said ......yet !

giggles

ainsjac wrote:Great news. Double demerits up there this weekend?

Not here

a bit of an acquaintance (Chris Chapman)  in another place, took the time to post a pic of "gerty"  in an unusual setting  ...I guess from something I posted recently

I was amazed and gob smacked  to be honest ...looks far better than I remember ....


thanks chris ...appreciate it heaps

heres the pic


titled ,,,
Charlie Bashford's K100 in orbit around planet BMW

back from a trip in the country ...call it a settling in ride ....to visit our mates Alby and Nic...and to return some valuable assembly tools that I borrowed for the head job ( valve spring compressor ...piston ring compressor and a couple of others ) thanks alby ..invaluable stuff to have on hand ...and certainly made the job heaps easier ..... Gerty ran really well with enormous amounts of power on hand.... if one wanted to ...finally took her to 6 grand and little further up a good twisty windy bit ( in third ) ,,stunning performance ....now the not so good news .....430 something ks travelled and 31 litres of fuel ....giggles ...guess ill have to wind the fuel pressure down a bit ....hehe


over 1100 ks since the head job

maybe an oil change  and a regulator adjustment before the "Karuah river Rally " next week

charlie99 wrote:...guess ill have to wind the fuel pressure down a bit ....hehe

Or the enthusiastic right wrist, after a period of standstill ...well done, Charlie.

who me ?????   giggles

thanks inge ...and all

Time to change your signature line from "cheesy grin" to "Permanent Grin" by the sounds of it Charlie !!

Charlie, I am amazed at the work and the improvements you have done to Gerty.

You haven't got a shed. It's all done "in house".

The bike is a credit to you.

Thanks for sharing.

blaKey wrote:Charlie, I am amazed at the work you done and the improvements you have done to Gerty.

You haven't got a shed. It's all done "in house".

The bike is a credit to you.

Thanks for sharing.

+1 that
Great thread. Learnt a lot.
Thanks Charlie

still fettling in gerty

next weekend hope to sort the valves  as I think I have 1 or 2 too tight  and 1 loose

which is certainly affecting a good idle ...and more I figure

also to wind back the afm ....which I had taken up to 2 clicks looser on the springing ...still running massively rich  after taking the pressure down to about 2.7 bar (vacuum line off ) but happy that it is a good spray pressure .

I figure the afm controls the duty cycle - duration of the injector timing based on flow through it . and ive gone too far 
so ill try taking it back 1 click and see the differences ....all really hard to predict without some good tools I guess
perhaps an o2 sniffer  kit might give me  much better feedback

got scared off by the turbo shop boys wanting over 130 for just a little while on their machine ...they didn't even have a separate exhaust analizer ...had to use their dyno without actually running the rolling road

perhaps I can find a gas conversion fitter with the right tools cheaper ...but working out of town doesn't leave a lot of time for investigation

I had changed the plugs before taking off from Brisbane last weekend and achieved a smooth idle ...but number 1 missing again at idle by the time I got to warwick ...so I guess too tight on that one eh ?

bit miffed that the performance that I experienced on the ride up to albys place last weekend  had dropped off a fair bit . most noticed up the hills of the thunderbolts way

till I remembered I had reinstalled the snorkel during the refit before the trip south and craig saying that he heard much more induction noise during a swap ride from the lookout to about Nowendoc ....so took it off about warwick on the way home ...and it did breath so much better  ....

I remember reading on the internet bmw owners site that it made little difference on performance ... I guess they meant on a standard kit machine ?

but I think there is some difference on gerty on current trim , especially at higher flow rates through the whole air feed path .

id better work on the alternate filter and afm paths that I have planned
on a happy note running coolant temps are good an stable ....even in erm spirited hill climbs and with the 2 core radiator still fitted .

will convert back to the 3 core radiator as the adjustments are completed and I have discounted the coolant flow path as the reason for running higher than normal temperatures but first I will  install nutserts for all the bracketry for the fuel cooler and side panels etc on the radiator frame , makes a much better look and maintenance outcome .

Charlie,
When my FPR failed recently, I was discussing FPR's with a friend who used to work on fuel systems (even at F1 level) and he knew a lot about the development of the standard K Bosch FPR. 

One point he made was that they can be prone to vibration problems so the valve needs to be in a plane that is least affected by vibration. BMW positioned the valve in a horizontal plane above the engine, which does makes the hose runs rather awkward, but that was the probable reason.

I notice that your new regulator is positioned with the valve in a vertical plane above the engine and I'm wondering if, at certain revs, the valve is vibrating shut causing the richness???

I know this is an obscure thought, but..........strange things sometimes happen.

Paul.

hmm some good input paul

possibly has more to do with the afm springing slacked off 2 clicks  and running a richer mix at all revs

and the valve shim adjustments

today hope to get the shims right so I can achieve a good idle at all temperatures
 
and will swap the other afm (standard )back into gerty for a trial after,  doesn't take long at all now .

im thinking an ego sensor project kit might be the way to go for getting it right ...then will have it on hand for the community ,if needed

just a before and after ...amazing what one picks up along the road













a little later old gerty doesnt look too bad ....some repairs to do ...after laying down in the dirt...lounging around on the side of the track

so ...doing a little comparison exercise on the afm units

getys original and running lean unit has 1.11 volts at the output of the afm at no flow

the alternate unit (which I had adjusted and corrected the connector on the wiper arm ) reads about 1.18 at no flow (but running rich like crazy )


also with the vacuum hooked up for a pretty reasonable flow ..the differences between the modified unit (2 clicks released on the spring tension )  and the standard unit are pretty similar but about .02 voltage difference in favour of the moded afm

just recalibrating my new cheapo multimeter to read exactly the same as the 200 dollar( 7 years ago ) meter for a better a, b comparison

just a note the air bypass screw seems to have little function after about 10 mm deflection of the air vane ....well so far that I can measure ...but will have to come up with a different suck method for  moderate air flows ...just for comparisons

it appears to me that the slight differences between the 2   at .02 differences at atleast 3/4 flow has a big effect on consumption ...quite remarkable

im going to hook up the cro and measure the mark space ratios ( injector duty cycle ) at revs on gerty ...the techtronics cro unit gives these figures pretty accurately just from the diagnostics screen whilst running
possibly manipulating the vane whilst in running mode to see any differences

still thinking an exhaust sniffer for mix would be a good thing ..so will investigate a few options

but will revise the afm setting on the modified unit to be closer the that 1.10 mark id be happy with 1.14   and increase the spring tension by 1 click  closer to the original setting which might make that thirsty fuel economy a little better

all in an attempt to get on the road and speeding south in a week or so

also have a new handle grip  (with gear to the cam throttle chain ) on the way ...as mine seems to have a severe grinding - restriction feel as opening those throttle bodies further than I have been able to before .

a little test ride might be happening tomorrow ...to pick up a trailer hitch  from near here ...to be sent off to one of our brothers ...over there ..

Bit concerned about your post......you are looking for another sucker and talk about a exhaust sniffer.

sorry stan ...yes it is a bit detailed technically

for some ...they will understand ... sorry I clouded up the simplicity of the system ...

just trying to gather results and prove functions old mate

Just stirring Sir Charlie.

Charlie have you considered hitting the recyclers for a used vacuum of bigger capacity? and wander down to a pool or plumbing store and buy one of those 2 or 3 inch pool or tank plastic water taps the flat slide ones so you can regulate how much sucking goes on. I'd consider it easier to calibrate the two if you can set the rate of flow through the map flap via such a device. It would give you  many setting just like riding would have us with the throttle open at different points. Perhaps 3 decimal points are needed to give a clearer picture of what your 2 units are doing.
P.S.
I think Stan is getting worried about you.

just what i had in mind keith

also wouls be good to have a pressure guage in there as well   just to replicate the settings to some accuracy ...huh ?

just didnt consider that tenths of millivolts would be that significant     till now


anyhow meters calibrated far closer together now


and finally back to similar settings

still running lean ...to a very slight degree  at 1 click less spring ... after adjusting bypass idle at afm

so afm out and jack it up just a little bit ...maybe 1.16 at 1 click instead of 2 on the spring

good power though when on the throttle  with fuel set at 3 bar

wish I had the vacuum sync tools to diagnose some slight idle inconsistencies .... will get some I think

bit of a ride today down to the gold coast

good temps at 110 kph ....

bit touch warm on idling through suburbia

but 5.75 litres  per 100 k ....... a lot better

still at it

Wish I could get that. Mines more like 6.3L/100km

88KE wrote:Wish I could get that. Mines more like 6.3L/100km

 6.3????!!!! 
Geeez Will - try 2nd gear (or higher)