Hello Guys 

I have searched the Forum and read my book and searched the web but I'm a little lost and need some help 

So far I have removed my fork  from the bike 
Removed the filler plug and drained the oil 

The manual states to undo the  bottom allen key which seem to  be just turning ?
I can looking via the oil drain hole a see something turning  ? Hope nothing is broken

I have removed the Filler plug and c clip from the top  

removed the spacer and top spring 

removed the dust cap  which has some sort of grey coloured greases in it  ? 

Now to the forkseal

Book sates remove seal clip  ??  cant see  this item and cant see it in any exploded diagrams ? 

Book states  use a round edge item and the pry them out  ?? 

   

Your forks look like a late K100LT or a 16v RS this is from the clymers

You will need to remove the fork tube from the slider via undoing the allan key at the bottom of slider, then pop the old seal out.

smithy wrote:You will need to remove the fork tube from the slider via undoing the allan key at the bottom of slider, then pop the old seal out.

Hello Smithy 

How do you get the Allan Key out at the bottom  ?

It turns freely but is  turning  something in side the bottom leg I can see this through the drain hole ?

RicK G wrote:Your forks look like a late K100LT or a 16v RS this is from the clymers

Hello Rick 
No original  1986  k100 8V  forks not this one

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:

smithy wrote:You will need to remove the fork tube from the slider via undoing the allan key at the bottom of slider, then pop the old seal out.

Hello Smithy 

How do you get the Allan Key out at the bottom  ?

It turns freely but is  turning  something in side the bottom leg I can see this through the drain hole ?

You may have to use an impact driver, you should undo that before removing the top cap from the fork tube.

smithy wrote:

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:

smithy wrote:You will need to remove the fork tube from the slider via undoing the allan key at the bottom of slider, then pop the old seal out.

Hello Smithy 

How do you get the Allan Key out at the bottom  ?

It turns freely but is  turning  something in side the bottom leg I can see this through the drain hole ?

You may have to use an impact driver, you should undo that before removing the top cap from the fork tube.

It just kept turning that why I went to the next step of undoing the top filler  plug  

Will probably  re assemble and see what happens   hope the spring pressure holds it tight  ?

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:
Will probably  re assemble and see what happens   hope the spring pressure holds it tight  ?

Start this video at 1:35. It illustrates what Smithy has explained and what you are coming to realize.

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Hello Rick 
No original  1986  k100 8V  forks not this one

As one can see on the photos the sliders have tabs for a fork brace, which says
you have a SE model with sport forks, (it should also be a S stamped on the top of
each spring retainer) or some PO have changed the forks.

The sport fork have different internals left/right, and a lower oil level than a standard fork.

As you allready have realized....it isn't necessery to undo the springs/retainers/spacers when changing the seals (just extra work and wasted time).

Inge K. wrote:

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Hello Rick 
No original  1986  k100 8V  forks not this one

As one can see on the photos the sliders have tabs for a fork brace, which says
you have a SE model with sport forks, (it should also be a S stamped on the top of
each spring retainer) or some PO have changed the forks.

The sport fork have different internals left/right, and a lower oil level than a standard fork.

As you allready have realized....it isn't necessery to undo the springs/retainers/spacers when changing the seals (just extra work and wasted time).

Yes found that out the hard way 

but can get the bolt out  or re tighten it  

does anyone have any secrets to getting the seal out ?? Done seal on other bike but this one is frustrating me and I dont want to damage or mark the seat or tube    

 

someone on  facebook cant remember his name with out my phone on me  but will give him the credit   showed me a jig using a long clamp to compress the spring further than normal to allow for the removal of the bottom allan key and or re tighten 

with the top plug pushed into the top and held under pressure

Your having a hard time with it Matthew, normally it's not hard to pop the seal out with a blunt screwdriver and a sharp blow of the hand.
Recently I've changed the seals on the k75s and k100rs with no dramas, if the allan key at the bottom of the slider doesn't undo with the ratchet I'll use the Makita.

  
 

sometimes its important to have a verry sharp edged allen key - adaptor for removal of this bolt

its quite shallow (actually its a special bolt with depth stopping profile inside the allen key head )

a good set of allen key adaptors to 3/8 drive is a good thing to have when working on metric anything

I cut the top off my adaptor with a grinder to remove the burred off profile of the allen key adaptor , to get as much gripping depth into the head as possible   as smithy says  a good clutched drill is a marvelous thing to have in the shed  as the impulse of going past the cluct of the drill acts like an
impact driver  with an alternative adaptor that fits the drill and the bit

Matthew-Brisbane wrote: . . a jig using a long clamp to compress the spring further than normal to allow for the removal of the bottom allan key and or re tighten with the top plug pushed into the top and held under pressure . . .

This is a common type of puller used with a wrench socket of appropriate size that can be used for that job.

Laitch wrote:

Matthew-Brisbane wrote: . . a jig using a long clamp to compress the spring further than normal to allow for the removal of the bottom allan key and or re tighten with the top plug pushed into the top and held under pressure . . .

This is a common type of puller used with a wrench socket of appropriate size that can be used for that job.

Thanks Guys 

will try again on the weekend 

Tried the hot water as well to soften the rubber but no luck

About allen screws with shallow head, a special key is made for this type of screws.
This screws have a bore in the bottom, the key have a spigot which fits this bore.
It keeps the screw and the key in line...so the key isn't bent to the side and slips
that easily when torque is added.

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Tried the hot water as well to soften the rubber but no luck.

I think now is the time for a few photos of your situation. The seal has always popped out for me when I use the stanchion as a slide hammer—just like the video.

I'd use the hot water for café cubano.

Hello Guys 

Still having trouble trying to get the allen key bolt out at the bottom or even to tighten

Still have not been able to get the seal to come out either 

I have put it all back together twice now trying to get enough pressure on the spring to hold the damping rod but no luck 

I can see rub marks on the bottom of the spring and the top of the  damping rod were  I have  used my drill to see if the high speed would make it release 

I was thinking of getting a broom stick and shave down the point so it can fit into the dampening  rod and vice to try and spot it turning ? 

And then release the allen key

Put heaps of downward pressure on the spring and use a 1/2" rattle gun on high with plenty of air pressure like 100psi/7bar

Hello Guys 

Final been able to separate the top and bottom of the first fork leg  after building a gig using a rally big G Clamp and some choice words

Glad I'm  not paying by the hour on this one 

Pretty much the fork seal disintegrated but  still think something is not correct there seem to be a spacer/washer ? on top of the oil seal  Its not a clip as it solid all the way around  

any one knows how to remove this  ??? 

Part of the seal is left behind and the ring is a spacer and retaining ring that will come out when the remainders of the seal are out.
To get the seal out use a blunt screwdriver and get it into the back edge of the seal (red arrow) and knock it inward, not down or the fork will be damaged, so you have a V section in the seal then you can lever it out using the blunt screwdriver.
And who said a blunt screwdriver is dangerous

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Oil-Grease-Rubber-Seal-Gasket-O-Ring-Puller-Remover-Removal-Tool-AK7000-/311344450762?epid=1523140482&hash=item487d934cca:g:57UAAOSweW5VOKzG

And duck, because the seals come out in a real hurry.

Dai wrote:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Oil-Grease-Rubber-Seal-Gasket-O-Ring-Puller-Remover-Removal-Tool-AK7000-/311344450762?epid=1523140482&hash=item487d934cca:g:57UAAOSweW5VOKzG

And duck, because the seals come out in a real hurry.

Thanks guys
Its being one very stubborn  lady