Moving along with my streetfighter/cafe project.  I have an Acewell instrument cluster I bought and am making plans to wire it up.  In my research, it appears the Marulabs BEP 3.0 is my best bet as they state they worked with Acewell specifically to get speedo/RPM/fuel level inputs conditioned to work with factory wiring.

The hard part is I bought the bike without an instrument cluster.  I'm not sure if the previous owner just cut the wiring/connector out (I assume it was supposed to run up above the triple tree where the cluster is - it's obviously not there now.  I know from looking at the BEP 3.0 instructions that there should be two 12 pin single row connectors for the stock cluster.

If anyone has a picture of these connectors and where they run under the tank it would be extremely helpful.

Also, if they've been removed, does anyone know if these are part of a separate harness I can buy at the dealer?  Or do the wires terminate in many different places?

A few pics:

As I got it:



Where I'm at now:

Picture ............they are integrated in the main harness.

Boost i'll be taking the tank off at the weekend and can take some pics of the cluster connector if that will help, i've moved the harness from the cluster and it sits under the tank.
It should be very obvious if its still intact?

That would be awesome.   I'll be installing my clip ons sometime soon (I've only put it off because I don't think my current SS brake line will reach and I don't want the bike down while we're having this beautiful Indian summer).  I'll have to take the tank off to do the clip ons as I bought new right hand electric controls and will have to connect them under the tank.

I know what the ends of the connectors look like now (thanks above!), but seeing where they terminate in the harness or where they route would be a huge help to either rebuilding the harnesses or figuring out what the previous owner did to hide them.

That's actually pretty helpful.  So at least it's very unlikely they cut it back very far since there appears to be other necessary connectors by the steering head (fuel tank, etc?)  Maybe the bundle will be taped off and some of the colored wires there so all I need to do is source the connectors and re-pin.  I work for a BMW auto dealership so I can get the pins easy, the connectors may have to be begged off these forums

Had the tank off this weekend to wire my LED brake/tail/turn signal strip (basically to cut the trace on the flasher relay - how easy!) and found the instrument cluster connectors!!  So relieved I don't have to dig wires out of the harness.  I ordered the BEP 3.0 and should be here Thursday (super fast shipping by DHL!).

Marulabs confirmed to me that if you're using a modern Acewell speedo/cluster, everything is plug and play - no need for magnets on wheels or spark plugs wrapped in wires.  No hanky panky in the fuel tank either - the low fuel indicator will work just plug and play (my 85 won't work for actual live fuel level, but that's a BMW restriction not Marulabs).

No biggie to me, I haven't had any instruments for the last 2 months.  My fuel level indicator is my gas cap key and my eyeball - has worked so far.

If your gas cap key is not the same as the ignition key....you can very easily rekey the gas tank to work with the ignition key. By right you should take off the gas cap assembly complete [4 screws into the tank] and strip it [3 cross heads on the underside of the flip cap] and clean it. If you ever get to find you cant open it, no need to destroy it, there is a thread on the forum for an emergency release hole to be drilled in it. I have it and so do others, works brilliantly if the cap fails or you lose the only key you had for it....

I'm interested in the re-key.  It is a different key than my ignition and it'd be better to have one key.

Is the re-key kit something I'd buy from the dealer?

No need to buy any parts.

When you take the gas tank cover off, make a mug of coffee and set down at a table.

Open the three cross head screws on the underside of the flip cover and you can off the underside of the cover and take it apart. Anyway this should be an occasional maintenance, clean out the inside. Push your gas tank key in and you will see the pins in the outside of the barrel disappear, so it can be rotated. Now take out that key and put in your ignition key. The pins that stay out need to be filed back flush exactly as they did with the gas tank key. Clean it all up and be sure to get all the filings removed, otherwise they will wear out the plastic bit at the bottom which actually releases the cap to open when you turn the key. In effect now either key will open it.